+1 on the "when the surf turns to crap and there's no swell predicted for anytime soon...." -> Being prepared is a big part of making the most of the surf when it's on,..... and also when it's not.
"When you rolled a winter wave..." +1 :) :) :)
Hell I'll tyry one
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
"When you shaped a crazy looking experimental board....." -> +1 and :) :)