Here is the 9'.6" just before cracking apart, finished regluing this afternoon.
Now I have 2 balsas to finish sand this weekend
That is a great looking board. Gorgeous shape to it. Looks wide and stable. You work is inspiring me to keep on going with my board.
Enjoy the sanding. Hopefully you will have good weather for the weekend.
Maybe fire up the BBQ for atmosphere?
Made it out to get some more 2X4 boards today. $2.88 each.
Used the experimental/sample rib as the rocker template. This worked really well. The form was light and easy to handle and very stable. Scarf joined the piece cut out for the nose rocker to the top to give more length and allow to cut a good 5" nose rocker. I suspect from reading this forum there will be a glue line visible on the top deck, but this is a simple fun summer project, and not meant to be super pretty. The alternative method of making the joint underneath is a good one, discussed elsewhere, but I do not have that many clamps and could not cut a consistent straight or curved line along most of the length of the board. Besides, I can barely cut a short straight line as is is.
Managed to find some redwood 2X4's as well, so I will add them in for some stripes in redwood color. (None of these are pictured here.) It does not feel as strong as the other wood, but it is nicely finished and a beautiful color (3X the price however).
Using Titebond III wood glue and bricks and weighs to hold things together. It worked OK for the sample rib, so we'll keep with the same program.
8 ribs done, about 8 more to go.
Found a local bike shop that can give me as many punctured inner tubes as I need for the glue up (after chambering).
I am only using simple tools (a 4.5 Amp $25 jigsaw, and a $25 corded drill). Not completely sure how I will cut the outline through the 3.5" width of 2X4, but I am leaning to using a hand saw or maybe renting/borrowing a circular saw.
Here is a close up of the nose rocker cut and the scarf joint and the boards laid out to let the glue dry.
love the work on here, YEW!!!!
Sunshine Coast (hoax) Queensland Australia
Back at it this weekend. A couple new things:
1. It turns out the wood is Douglas Fir. Just picking it up at Home Depot/Lowes. nothing fancy. But it is not pine, per se.
2. Bought 4 redwood 2X4's for some color in the board. These were $8 each instead of $3 for the Douglas Fir.
3. When looking for 2X4's I mainly looked for ones without knots on the edges (the 2" sides), as I figured I could always cut out center knots when chambering. I have included a pic of a few of the boards here.
4. I mentioned I was using the sample rib to cut trace the rocker. Here is a pic of that process. The solid feels of the same rib has been very nice to use.
5. Here is the gluing of the second batch of 8 ribs.
Next, the plan is to 'clamp' them all together side-by-side and trace the outline of the board. Going to try to use old punctured bicycle inner tubes. Bike shops here give them away no questions asked. Then 'unclamp' it and cut the outline on each board with a hand saw.
Part of this summer project has been to enjoy doing something hands-on related to surfing. As we know, the experience of connecting with the ocean and waves is a unique experience, and my hope is that shaping a wood board will bring me some of the same stoke while at home.
I have kept the tools and technology simple for a few reasons:
1. I don't own a workshop setup. I only have a drill, a hand saw, a jigsaw, and screw drivers. My neighbor said he can loan me a belt sander, and I think I will take him up on this. I'll buy a hand plane soon ($20). In general, trying to keep life fairly simple.
2. I am not good at woodworking or DIY projects in general. No natural aptitude, no eye for detail.
3. If even moderately successful at either goal (some stoke at home or a surfable board) the project can show others that such things can be attempted without a full woodworking shop. And if it all turns into firewood, well, my mind was on surfing, lessons were learned, and it was a fun summer folly.
4. One of the things I most enjoy in surfing is its simplicity. Waves, a board, and a person. I'm trying to mirror this simplicity in the board's genesis.
Thanks everyone for all the knowlege shared on this site and the encouragement.
I'll post the pic of the board's outline when it is traced.
Another milestone (of hopefully many to come) - I have completed the rough ribs.
We are having some unusually warm wether here in San Francisco, so I am going to let them sit out in the sun separated for a few days and see if they will dry out a bit more, to make them easier to wield and work with. Some are very light and others are quite heavy. My assumption is water weight, as the grain does not seem more dense in the heavy boards. Glad to have spent the extra total $20 on the redwood. It adds nice color and was way easier to jigsaw.
I held them together with bicycle inner tubes, and I think these will work well for glue up after chambering, though I will use many more for even pressure.
I traced the outline from my 'floaty board' onto roofing paper, and used this to copy the outline on to the wooden raft of ribs. A while ago, this was the same technique for copying the rocker.
Each rib is numbered several times and there are four lines across the ribs to help line them up when I begin to screw them together. The plan is not to spot glue them, but instead screw them each together from the center out, then connect the two halves with a few dowels in drilled holes.
Rough dimensions are 8'9"X23"X3.5", Nose rocker 6", Tail rocker 3". I am guessing I'll lose 1" to 1 1/2" all around after planing and shaping. Still should be a respectable size for flotation.
I had made 16 ribs to work with, but decided to go with an odd number so that the center stringer can house the longboard fin box, rather then split this between two center ribs. I guess there is a spare, if one totally flakes out, or I find a poorly placed knot that I overlooked.
This week will be letting the ribs dry in the sun, then hopefully next weekend screw them all together, and maybe start rough planing/belt-sanding the deck and bottom.
Have a good week, everyone.
Today's progress is screwing the ribs together. I have decided to use screws rather than glue, as I think it will come apart easier and I could do it all in a couple hours. The squiggly lines mark where each screw went in, so that I did not put one on top of the other. I used about 4 screws on each rib.
There is a risk some of the screw tips may protrude at the rails, but we'll see. Even if they do, I can always fill in the gap and an epoxy/fiberglass coat will ensure the board is waterproof. Might take a small chunk out the the hand plane blade, but again we'll see. I tried to give about 1/2" clearance at minimum.
I started screwing the ribs at the rails and worked inward. The plan is to join the two halves with 1/2" or 1" dowels, dry-fitted into holes, then simply pull the halves apart when it is time to chamber the ribs. The screws should let me pull them off one at a time for chambering and gluing. Hopefully this weekend I'll get the dowels put in and the outline shape sawn (hand saw is the plan). Next it is flattening the deck top and bottom (belt sander and hand plane). then work on the foil shape and rails.
For anyone looking closely, I chickened out and added back the extra rib (8 ribs on each half), so the rough width is now 24 1/2". My thinking is that I can sacrifice a bit of weight for stability and a more easy to ride board once it is in the water.
Thanks again for all the information and encouragement on this site.
Be sure to give us before and after weights. Interested to see what the reduction % is.
The 9'6" balsa I just dropped off at Watermans Guild was just under 40# before starting shaping.
After finishing all the machine work it was 34#, cracked it apart, chambering each piece was reducing the weight by half or better.
Reglued and finish sanded, 15# 15 oz
Jim, that's mighty clean chambering. Under 16 lbs is terrific and the board is gorgeous. I'll do my best to try to keep up, and do right by wood board builders everywhere.
Tom, I'll measure the gross weight this weekend, weigh after shaping, then again after chambering and see about the weight % reduction. The solid sections around the finboxes might end up being more significant than anticipated, but we'll see. I'm planning on trying to keep the decks around 1/8" and chambers around 10" to 12" long. I have been more and more impressed with the strength of fir and redwood. (I hope that I am not foreshadowing "famous last words".)
Have a great weekend.