Cheapest Best Epoxy?

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wileysurfboards's picture
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Cheapest Best Epoxy?

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Looking for the cheapest but still effective and good epoxy resin. (no yellowing, cracking, dissolving, etc.,)

Thank you

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cheap epoxy isn't good, good epoxy isn't cheap.

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Re: [wileysurfboards] Cheapest Best Epoxy?

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Resin Research

wileysurfboards's picture
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Ok now how much resin would i need to make a 5 10 board?

da5id's picture
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Re: [wileysurfboards] Cheapest Best Epoxy?

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For RR:

You will need about 30-35 oz (with fin boxes/leash plug/mistakes).  Check this out:

http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/detail_page2.cgi?ID=1029

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Cheap resin is about not wasting the good stuff.  

Surfifty's picture
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Re: [wileysurfboards] Cheapest Best Epoxy?

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You get what you pay for.

spencer444's picture
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http://www.carbon-fiber.us/resin-systems-epoxy-resins-c-3332_3354.html

$65 for a 1.5 gallon kit + $17 shipping.. and the epoxy is pretty good from what i've used.

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I consider RR cheap resin.

And it is very good!

But for fin boxes and other filling, I use a less exotherm casting resin (Epovoss BK). But it's a little more expensive and it yellows if used for laminating.

gregloehr's picture
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Re: [wileysurfboards] Cheapest Best Epoxy?

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Maybe we need to raise our prices ...

surfthis's picture
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gregloehr wrote:


Maybe we need to raise our prices ...



I'm gonna go with no on this!!! :D

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Nooo, don't raise your prices unless you absolutely have to GL.  Resin Research when used correctly isn't that much more than polyester.  Greg Loehr is for real; he posts here, and is always searching for ways to make his great product idiot proof; still I can assure him to that end while noble is futile.

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Greg gives me resin for free.  I thought all of you were in on that deal.

I just pay for shipping, handling, taxes, state and local permit fees and ...............

Journalism is Dead

resinhead's picture
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Greg sent me a 55 gallon drum...and 15 gallons of additive F


 


Cost me $51.87.....no shipping too.  Said it was because Arizona has no sales tax, passing the savings to the consumer.


 


I just got done laminating my dog in carbon fiber.........got those sweet curves with a vac bag.


 


Got it through Amazon.com

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It's hard to understand Mr. Head's posts sometimes...When he says "dog" he really means "federally protected marine mammal"... 

pirate_agenda's picture
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$50 for 55 gallons!!!

here in australia i pay $290 for 3 gallon kit (i think? 3 bottles??)

other comparible resins available here are Kinetix at $160 for 1.5 gal , CET at  $150 for 1.5 gal, FGI for $130 1.5 gal. (prices do get cheaper with qty obviously. 

As far as i know all the rest are garbage and not much cheaper. 

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Pretty sure Mr R Head is pushing your leg.

Journalism is Dead

stingray's picture
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Buy a Kia...drive a Kia....cheap......


...beat a Kia...sure.....you get what you pay for.......buyer beware.......


I'm a Resin Research Man......you're cheap resin has to compete with the best......and the best is.......Resin Research.....


..........

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GregTate wrote:

Pretty sure Mr R Head is pushing your leg.

ha yes i realised that as soon i hit submit! 

i shouldnt post before my morning coffee!

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Or perhaps he's legging him on...

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and so was I

Journalism is Dead

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Haven't raised prices in 5 years ... but looking at what the Aussies are paying .... But actually I don't have to raise at this point so I won't.  Our pricing is driven by chemical prices alone, I don't believe in jacking prices every time I can.  Also we don't react to every chem price blip that happens since it always bounces around some.  The surfboard industry is so tough, the margins so thin, we try hard to be consistant. We can't be the cheapest because quality costs more.  But we can be consistant which gives this industry something they can count on.  Been in this for a long time and I like to think I'm aware of what works for us. 

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gregloehr wrote:

Haven't raised prices in 5 years ... but looking at what the Aussies are paying .... But actually I don't have to raise at this point so I won't.  Our pricing is driven by chemical prices alone, I don't believe in jacking prices every time I can.  Also we don't react to every chem price blip that happens since it always bounces around some.  The surfboard industry is so tough, the margins so thin, we try hard to be consistant. We can't be the cheapest because quality costs more.  But we can be consistant which gives this industry something they can count on.  Been in this for a long time and I like to think I'm aware of what works for us. 

Sounds like a winner to me.

Right on Greg

You are all singing, all dancing crap of the world.

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As for toughness, flex, uv stability and clarity, RR is the best surboard specific resin I've ever used... and that includes poly. Keep it on the board and off the floor, and it's worth every cent.

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spot on NJ. I lose more wipping off the mixing stick than typically hits the tray off the board.

Journalism is Dead

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GregTate wrote:

spot on NJ. I lose more wipping off the mixing stick than typically hits the tray off the board.

I wish you guys would post some videos of this... I've heard/read this from a bunch of Swayfolks but I still get some major drips on the floor.

I'm doing better than before but still not like described above...

Tips, secrets, video, anyone ???

You are all singing, all dancing crap of the world.

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mix 2 batches - first one brush the rails and laps and lam your logo, second one lam the deck. you don't need to flood the laps and can use a lot less. 

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GregTate wrote:


Tips, secrets, video, anyone ???



Here's what I do... It's kinda hard to explain, but try to visualize.


I cut my cloth, and fold up the laps onto the deck. I mix one batch. As soon as it's mixed, I take a cheap natural bristle chip brush and paint the rail with resin from the apex down to where the lap edge will be. Don't go above the apex, or your cloth can stick and crimp. If you keep it from the apex down, the cloth will hang free. Some guys wet the laps when they're folded up onto the flats, but that works the cut edge too much for me and makes too many strings come loose and fall out of the weave. Just wet the underside of the rail... and do it by dipping the brush in the bucket and painting quickly with the bucket under the brush the whole time so any drips go back into the tub. Dip, stroke... dip stroke... working quickly around the board, catching all the drips coming off the brush into the bucket.


Once around, then check... look under to make sure there are not drips... and everything is wet evenly the width of the brush. Walk it out like a hotcoat in one continuous stroke with the tip of the brush all the way around to finish it off. Wet your lams, then flap the cloth back down, and flap down your laps so they hang freely. So far, no drips have hit the floor, and the underside of your rail foam is wet and ready for your lap.


Now pour out your resin down the stringer, following with the spreader at a low angle, spreading out the stream of resin the width of the spreader. This is where you can conserve a lot of resin: spreading the initial pour out evenly all over the flats so when it sinks in, there are no flowing puddles. Even pour... even spreading... no flowing resin. A thin, even film that soaks into the cloth, leaving little to pull out. Work from the stringer out to the top of the rail, so no resin is flowing off the rail. Still no drips.


Once that's done, there should be about an inch of dry cloth all round the board at the top of the rail, between the wetted flats and the rail apex. The hanging lap is also dry, because it hasn't touched the wetted foam yet. At this point there will be only a tiny bit of resin left in the bucket. Turn the bucket upside down on the stringer, and as the resin soaks into the cloth, the last remaining dregs of resin in the bucket runs out onto the board. After a moment or two, pick up your bucket and work out any pin air and spread that puddle of dregs out evenly.


Now, pull the resin from the center of the board to nose, then to tail, along the stringer, so the cloth is tight down the center length of the board. Proceed as normal, pulling out the excess from stringer to rail, starting at the center of the board. And here's the last trick: Pull the resin from stringer to rail with the spreader at a high angle, so any excess resin beads up in front of the spreader. As you approach that last dry inch of cloth at the top of the rail, "roll" the spreader down the top of the rail to press that bead of resin into that dry inch of cloth with the flat side of the spreader, then continue around the rail to lap the cloth down around the rail, tight and flat, in one motion, with the final lap tuck done at a high angle again. So the spreader goes from high at the stringer, to pull out excess and get that bead ahead of the spreader, to a low and flat angle as it pushes that bead of resin into the dry cloth at the top of the rail, back to a high angle as it tucks the lap into the wetted foam along the underside of the rail.


Scrape off any excess back into the bucket and continue around the board, pulling the excess off the flats, wetting the top of the rail, and tucking the lap, all the way around the board, scraping off the excess back into the bucket with each pull. When everything is tucked, tight and flat, go back and check for dry spots. With the same chip brush you used to wet the rail foam, wet out any dry spots with the excess resin you scraped back into the bucket.


Once all the dry spots are wetted out with the brush, go back to the spreader (you might want to grab a fresh, dry one, and change your gloves while your at it) and pull out any excess, getting those last spots down tight and flat.


That's all I got.

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GregTate wrote:


Tips, secrets, video, anyone ???




nj_surfer wrote:


Here's what I do... It's kinda hard to explain, but try to visualize.


I cut my cloth, and fold up the laps onto the deck. I mix one batch. As soon as it's mixed, I take a cheap natural bristle chip brush and paint the rail with resin from the apex down to where the lap edge will be. Don't go above the apex, or your cloth can stick and crimp. If you keep it from the apex down, the cloth will hang free. Some guys wet the laps when they're folded up onto the flats, but that works the cut edge too much for me and makes too many strings come loose and fall out of the weave. Just wet the underside of the rail... and do it by dipping the brush in the bucket and painting quickly with the bucket under the brush the whole time so any drips go back into the tub. Dip, stroke... dip stroke... working quickly around the board, catching all the drips coming off the brush into the bucket.


Once around, then check... look under to make sure there are not drips... and everything is wet evenly the width of the brush. Walk it out like a hotcoat in one continuous stroke with the tip of the brush all the way around to finish it off. Wet your lams, then flap the cloth back down, and flap down your laps so they hang freely. So far, no drips have hit the floor, and the underside of your rail foam is wet and ready for your lap.


Now pour out your resin down the stringer, following with the spreader at a low angle, spreading out the stream of resin the width of the spreader. This is where you can conserve a lot of resin: spreading the initial pour out evenly all over the flats so when it sinks in, there are no flowing puddles. Even pour... even spreading... no flowing resin. A thin, even film that soaks into the cloth, leaving little to pull out. Work from the stringer out to the top of the rail, so no resin is flowing off the rail. Still no drips.


Once that's done, there should be about an inch of dry cloth all round the board at the top of the rail, between the wetted flats and the rail apex. The hanging lap is also dry, because it hasn't touched the wetted foam yet. At this point there will be only a tiny bit of resin left in the bucket. Turn the bucket upside down on the stringer, and as the resin soaks into the cloth, the last remaining dregs of resin in the bucket runs out onto the board. After a moment or two, pick up your bucket and work out any pin air and spread that puddle of dregs out evenly.


Now, pull the resin from the center of the board to nose, then to tail, along the stringer, so the cloth is tight down the center length of the board. Proceed as normal, pulling out the excess from stringer to rail, starting at the center of the board. And here's the last trick: Pull the resin from stringer to rail with the spreader at a high angle, so any excess resin beads up in front of the spreader. As you approach that last dry inch of cloth at the top of the rail, "roll" the spreader down the top of the rail to press that bead of resin into that dry inch of cloth with the flat side of the spreader, then continue around the rail to lap the cloth down around the rail, tight and flat, in one motion, with the final lap tuck done at a high angle again. So the spreader goes from high at the stringer, to pull out excess and get that bead ahead of the spreader, to a low and flat angle as it pushes that bead of resin into the dry cloth at the top of the rail, back to a high angle as it tucks the lap into the wetted foam along the underside of the rail.


Scrape off any excess back into the bucket and continue around the board, pulling the excess off the flats, wetting the top of the rail, and tucking the lap, all the way around the board, scraping off the excess back into the bucket with each pull. When everything is tucked, tight and flat, go back and check for dry spots. With the same chip brush you used to wet the rail foam, wet out any dry spots with the excess resin you scraped back into the bucket.


Once all the dry spots are wetted out with the brush, go back to the spreader (you might want to grab a fresh, dry one, and change your gloves while your at it) and pull out any excess, getting those last spots down tight and flat.


That's all I got.



Not a bad technique to learn, if your looking for a good technique that's resin stingy.  Definitely not a production method, unless your the guy paying for the materials.  Right on Jerseydude, I mean write on!

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Get Yourself some Resin Research - worth every penny.


Where are you located wileysurfboards? Theres sure to be a supplier nearby.


Greg ships it to me here in New Zealand, the cost of freight is far more than the resin costs but worth it in my opinion.


If your learning to shape and glass the cost of the resin is the least of your worries. Get quality materials, save yourself alot of headaches.


good luck


 

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Hey Ian

Ive been meaning to call to see if you have any left? Im gearing up for some more projects.

Karl

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