i like to ride shortboards and longboards. i'll grab my 9 footer when it's pumping just as easily as i'll grab my 6'10". when it's flat, i'll take out my fish or my noserider, kinda depends on my mood. here's my dilema. i got out of the water this morning after surfing my new 9' model (really just test driving it.) the waves were overhead and nicely lined-up across the point. lots of people out. i counted three times when an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding that?!" my answer is usually, "why are YOU riding THAT?" you know, trying to bounce a stupid question back at 'em. one guy even told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't get it. isn't it all just surfing? are any of you guys in this same situation? what are your responses? i'd like to propose a contest wherein the best answers get 5 deluxe set waves here in santa cruz. kirk
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I begun surfing ten years ago. The most important thing to me was that surfing keep me happy, and help me to forget all my problems. I surf because it's fun and i have my best moments in the water. When one day i'll feel that surfing has strict rules and i don't enjoy surfing, i let it. Surf is fun and i think you guys must know this every moment, and have an open mind help you to have fun. Rinding diferent things teach you to have an open mind... that's it. Keep riding what you want, don't ride just what people tell you. Good waves!. Coque.
>>> I begun surfing ten years ago. The most important thing to me was that > surfing keep me happy, and help me to forget all my problems.>>> I surf because it's fun and i have my best moments in the water. When one > day i'll feel that surfing has strict rules and i don't enjoy surfing, i > let it.>>> Surf is fun and i think you guys must know this every moment, and have an > open mind help you to have fun. Rinding diferent things teach you to have > an open mind... that's it.>>> Keep riding what you want, don't ride just what people tell you.>>> Good waves!. Well said you ride what you want, because its fun. When it stops being fun then you die. For those of you that only surf one kind of board and or wave, you are not capturing the full essense of what surfing is. Your board is the tool to get you to thst spot. Mark>>> Coque.
A friend of mine owns a surfshop and has a really cool collection of early shortboards (singles, twins, quads) up to logs. We are talking about putting together a contest whereby the contests draw a number out of a hat and they have to ride whatever old board they draw (the wall hangers will stay put). This will be done every heat, so you will have to constantly adapt throughout the contest. I can't wait, it should be really fun. I would not worry about what any of your buddies think about what you are riding. You never know what really works for you until you try a wide variety. They are the ones missing out.
Kirk, from your description, it sounds like you were probably surfing at Pleasure Point. If that's the case, you probably know the tension between long and shortboarders there. I surf there regularly and I ride shortboards. I think you can probably understand the frustration when a bunch of longboarders sit outside and paddle into every wave. It's a battle for shortboarders to get their share. The old hierarchy of surfing was that the best, most experienced surfer got the most waves. The resurgence of longboards has upset that rule. Thus, even if you ride both types of boards and even if you are an experienced surfer, and even if you subscribe to the "give a wave take a wave" philosophy, you will still be seen as a longboarder when you are riding a long board, and all the negative coonotations associated with being a longboarder will also be associated with you. Because of the influx of new surfers and yuppies surfers riding longboards and cheaters, there is going to be a negative attitude toward longboarders regardles of whether it is justified or not. If you are happy riding a longboard, then continue to do so, but you are also going to have to deal with the image longboarders have in this day and age - whether that image is justified or not. I personally have no problem with anyone regardless of type of board or skill level as long as they adhere to the rules in water. Give a wave and take a wave and have a good time.
'cuz its fun! I got 5 Santa Cruz set waves yesterday so you can pass 'em on to someone else
Kirk-you hit it-alot of guys use their longboard to spoil other peoples fun.Rotate,give a wave,share-never.Then all the new guys bringing out their new 10'0"s going straight off and using their cord to reel back in and do it again.It is hard to watch and gives longboarding a bad name and image.We all want the same kine fun but some more manners and thought would go a long way. Your wave. P.S. Has it been good the past few days or what?
>>> here's my dilema. i counted three times when > an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding > that?!" one guy even > told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't > get it. isn't it all just surfing? I used to just respond with a grin and say something like "Just lettin' it all hang out". The people who used to ask me that question years ago are now riding longboards. You also could maybe tell them you think that perhaps you are just a little further along the circle than they are at the moment. Face it, anybody who would say about any piece of equipment "There's no reason to be out on that thing" aren't interested in surfing; they are into IMAGE. In theory then that person should ride the same crappy 6'2" squashtail thruster (or whatever)for his or her entire surfing life ...oops! Fell apart after 6 months or a year! Dang, hope nobody changed the design...
No reason to tell them anything different than you told us. "kinda depends on my mood."
Those of us that are fortunate enough to have more than one stick can choice one that suits the conditions and have allot more fun as a result. Explaining things like that to someone who does understand there is more than one way to approach conditions is impossible in the water or out. Some will awaken to a bigger world, some will not. The world that includes everyone is what we all hope for but don't always find in the line-up. When there's a slew of short boarders on a break it makes little sense to barge in on a long board because we know how the school yard mentality is. It won't change. I love riding a short board at times but I'll be damned if I want to fight of waves. There's more than enough anx there no matter what size board you ride so why add to it. Frankly I think the idea of not being inclusive at any level is a mistake but unfortunately there are huge issues of ownership in our society that carry over into the surfing community. If you can mix it up with the big boys go for it. Make sure you wearing gloves the same weight. You can do allot more damage with 8oz gloves than you can with 16oz gloves if you know what I mean. It's more about experience in the line up than anything else though. No referees out there so we all have to be our own. If so body wants do go crazy or make small minded comments, they're probably not very approachable. Too much adreline pumpin' I suspect. Crowds are breeding grounds for trouble. Being small minded is hurtful to everyone. I wonder how much good jumping somebody's face really does? I go surfin' to share the waves and this beautiful healthful experience we have the good fortune to be a part of. Mahalo, Rich
I'm riding this because the fin kept falling out of your Mama's ass!
"I don't NEED a substitute for sex."
o.k., so far it's a tie between tuna and noodle. anyone else?
If you feel comfortable on boards of all types, and it sounds that you do, then ask the wise ass to trade boards with you. Tell him he can hassle you as much as he likes if he can surf it as well as you. tom
>>> o.k., so far it's a tie between tuna and noodle. anyone else? yep I agree these guys nailed it but in reality as said before you surf for fun so whatever is fun do it as log as it doesn't hurt others -- a long time ago I said to myself and friends "if I ever get out of this contest crap I'm going to get a longbd and go have fun again & never look back " well that was about 12-15 years ago and I haven't and many is the day when I get the looks or the same questions you got but my answear is always the same "its all about fun and I'm having loads of it" Hey if ridng a short board is fun do it but don't bitch about the longboarders getting more waves cause at the ripe old age of 48 I personally don't feel like getting in a paddle race with a 20 yr old on a 6- something ---as they say youth has strength and age has wisdom ---but I still liked the fin & ya momma line though!
I hear that all the time in SC. Response depends on the person: Sometimes it's a smile and a "exploring my quiver" (although it really like "just lettin' it all hang out") and others it gets to "shut up" - if your ever out at PP then you know the usual "Old Yellers" out there.
First off, a mind is like a parachute, it only works when it's open. I got into a good shortboard vs. longboard debate about 2 months ago with a friend of mine. i mostly longboard, he mostly shortboards. on this particular day the waves were about 1-2. with the two of us on our choice equipment, he proceeded to ask "what the hell did you bring the dining room table out for? longboards SUCK!". i told him that its fun and that i didnt see him catching any waves on his shortboard. well, he lost that round. but since that time, and after lots of debates, he's completely changed. he's longboarding more than he is shortboarding now. basically, i finally got him to understand that you have to ride what the conditions call for. you cant shortboard when its 2 feet and when its head high plus you've got to ditch that longboard. and i think that's the real problem we face: people want to ride a certain type of board in any condition... the reality of that is that it just doesn't work. When it's big, i hate seeing those longboarders sitting way outside and catching everything to end up stuffing it anyway. and i also hate seeing pissed off shortboarders who cant catch anything when its 1 foot yet still yelling at guys on longboards. and thats how these guys get bad reputations from the opposing "school" of surfing. you've got to ride what fits the conditions, you'll have more fun if you do. personally, i dont care what i'm riding, i do whatever is fun. i'll ride anything in anything. from a piece of plywood at pipeling to a toothpick in the lake. Like the box of the Longer video says: "Open your mind and your boards will follow" -Steve
And another thing, you've got to ride a wide variety of boards, try EVERYTHING and find out what works for you, what you have the most fun on, because that is the most important part of it all. THE FUN. that's the whole reason we do what we do. Part of the fun is playing with different designs. and if you end up riding something unique, power to you, who cares if you friends give you a load of crap. try new things, and find ways to have even more fun. Who wants to be a clone anyway? AMEN
>>> I'm riding this because the fin kept falling out of your Mama's ass! DOH!!! That's f*&#in' hilarious!
>>> i like to ride shortboards and longboards. i'll grab my 9 footer when it's > pumping just as easily as i'll grab my 6'10". when it's flat, i'll > take out my fish or my noserider, kinda depends on my mood.>>> here's my dilema. i got out of the water this morning after surfing my new > 9' model (really just test driving it.) the waves were overhead and nicely > lined-up across the point. lots of people out. i counted three times when > an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding > that?!" my answer is usually, "why are YOU riding THAT?" > you know, trying to bounce a stupid question back at 'em. one guy even > told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't > get it. isn't it all just surfing?>>> are any of you guys in this same situation? what are your responses? i'd > like to propose a contest wherein the best answers get 5 deluxe set waves > here in santa cruz.>>> kirk Change your thinking, and it`ll change your surfing: It`s nothing about your bros, or about Theory of Design. It`s about never smiling, and everything about The Look. Never been about fun, but the pleasure of possession. Nothing about you and yours, but all about me and mine. More about fast paddling, less about fast wave riding. About a bigger stick, about longer and harder. Less about kicking out, much more about dropping in. It`s about stealing feet, but never giving an inch. It`s about bigger numbers, overpowering smaller ones. It`s about unlimitled influence upon mindless masses. Selling rigid conformity under a glaze of individuality. It`s about the Theory of Facist Fashion, not True Function. Ride what you like, as long as it`s like what they ride. The illusion of freedom, firmly restrained by short leashes. Suppose there never was a Shortboard Revolution? No Morning Of The Earth, a film about dead end detours. Maybe it`s all been about Darwin`s Theory of Evolution? Let`s skip the surf and fight about it in the parking lot.
>>> i like to ride shortboards and longboards. i'll grab my 9 footer when it's > pumping just as easily as i'll grab my 6'10". when it's flat, i'll > take out my fish or my noserider, kinda depends on my mood.>>> here's my dilema. i got out of the water this morning after surfing my new > 9' model (really just test driving it.) the waves were overhead and nicely > lined-up across the point. lots of people out. i counted three times when > an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding > that?!" my answer is usually, "why are YOU riding THAT?" > you know, trying to bounce a stupid question back at 'em. one guy even > told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't > get it. isn't it all just surfing?>>> are any of you guys in this same situation? what are your responses? i'd > like to propose a contest wherein the best answers get 5 deluxe set waves > here in santa cruz.>>> kirk Kirk . . . just a couple of thoughts. "Why?" questions, directed at an individual, are rarely meant to elicit any sort of discourse. More often, they seem to represent a sometimes rude demand or challenge to explain (or defend!) one's self. Good Lord . . . we're just surfing . . . hard to understand how some take it all so seriously! And . . . a long time ago, Malibu, Summer '62. I was in the water with Dora, sitting out at the Point, waiting for a set. I asked him a "Why?" question (I was only 17!). His response? He glanced at me and then turned away to continue watching for the next set. Makes a lot of sense now. Whaddaya think?
i like it. maybe i'll try that next time i get a "WHY?"
>>> i like it. maybe i'll try that next time i get a "WHY?" Kirk, As I said before, it`s all about never smiling, and everything about The Look. Dora had it down. Or if The Look doesn`t work, just remember to ride what you like, as long as it`s like what they ride. It`s about being Tribal. G.L.
...i'll show you a big stick.....
i'm thinking of having Mama retrofitted with Red-X! i'll wait till she falls asleep.>>> I'm riding this because the fin kept falling out of your Mama's ass!
>>> i like to ride shortboards and longboards. i'll grab my 9 footer when it's > pumping just as easily as i'll grab my 6'10". when it's flat, i'll > take out my fish or my noserider, kinda depends on my mood.>>> here's my dilema. i got out of the water this morning after surfing my new > 9' model (really just test driving it.) the waves were overhead and nicely > lined-up across the point. lots of people out. i counted three times when > an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding > that?!" my answer is usually, "why are YOU riding THAT?" > you know, trying to bounce a stupid question back at 'em. one guy even > told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't > get it. isn't it all just surfing?>>> are any of you guys in this same situation? what are your responses? i'd > like to propose a contest wherein the best answers get 5 deluxe set waves > here in santa cruz.>>> kirk " My 12-0 is in drydock!
These are all excellent answers, Tuna & noodle included. I think the point here is that there will always be the ying and yang'ers out there on this topic, so my suggestion is ignoring or keeping the yang'ers away. To do so, I would like to recommend the following. Start by saying, "Let me tell you a story..." Two-Trucks-Carman lived with his hairless goat, Queen Chev, and her many possessions. If there was just one thing you could say about Queen Chev, it's this:” She questions everything." Whenever Two-Trucks would leave for work each morning, Queen Chev would make a goat noise. Now I know what you all are thinking. . .Da. . . big deal, what kind of statement is that? Well listen to me when I say, "Two-Trucks knows." For instance: If Queen Chev is standing beside the refrigerator making this goat noise while he's putting on his raincoat, that means "While you're out, could you swing by Dagastino's and pick up some Liquid Rain so I can watch you mop the floor." But if Queen Chev is urinating on the carpet while making this goat noise that means Queen Chev is just a goat and Two-Trucks is delusional, so in this case, it's the first. Queen Chev was standing by the refrigerator and definitely not urinating. At least not in theory. I mean, when is a goat ever urinating. (this should definitely keep the yanger's away-- for at least the session)>>> i like to ride shortboards and longboards. i'll grab my 9 footer when it's > pumping just as easily as i'll grab my 6'10". when it's flat, i'll > take out my fish or my noserider, kinda depends on my mood.>>> here's my dilema. i got out of the water this morning after surfing my new > 9' model (really just test driving it.) the waves were overhead and nicely > lined-up across the point. lots of people out. i counted three times when > an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding > that?!" my answer is usually, "why are YOU riding THAT?" > you know, trying to bounce a stupid question back at 'em. one guy even > told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't > get it. isn't it all just surfing?>>> are any of you guys in this same situation? what are your responses? i'd > like to propose a contest wherein the best answers get 5 deluxe set waves > here in santa cruz.>>> kirk http://www.whav.com
>>> i like to ride shortboards and longboards. i'll grab my 9 footer when it's > pumping just as easily as i'll grab my 6'10". when it's flat, i'll > take out my fish or my noserider, kinda depends on my mood.>>> here's my dilema. i got out of the water this morning after surfing my new > 9' model (really just test driving it.) the waves were overhead and nicely > lined-up across the point. lots of people out. i counted three times when > an aquaintance (shortboarder) paddled by asking, "why are you riding > that?!" my answer is usually, "why are YOU riding THAT?" > you know, trying to bounce a stupid question back at 'em. one guy even > told me, "there's NO reason to be out on that THING." i don't > get it. isn't it all just surfing?>>> are any of you guys in this same situation? what are your responses? i'd > like to propose a contest wherein the best answers get 5 deluxe set waves > here in santa cruz.>>> kirk Surf with self confidence and pride , then smile like Jay.
amen, easternpacific. i miss that guy.