>>> Oooooooo hell yes.. Pre cut paper sucks.. Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it > with points.. Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering > tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try > it with a pre cut after you'll see. You will never see swirls again... > NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND.... your asking for swirls. When polishing it works > even better.... cut wet dry the same way.. I've cut my paper that way for > over 30 years...>>> Plus pre cut cost more??? I have never heard of that but it sounds so friggin simple that I will give it a go.Some of these little tricks are the key to a nice job but pros take it for granted.I only use the pre cut discs with 80 grit but I bet that the stiffness is what threw me off.Come to think of it the guy that showed me polishing cut sandpaper in that whacky way you mentioned...I just figured he didn,t give a hoot.Rob you oughta try the 500 grit and see what you think.Muchos Crotchias Bro.......R,B.
Great thread! A neat way to complete a sanded finish is by taking it all down to 320 W/D, then turning over your last sheet of 320 and going over the board by hand with the paper side and water. It knocks off the micro-ridges of the 320 work without removing the scratches. A great surface slipping through the water.
>>> Great thread!>>> A neat way to complete a sanded finish is by taking it all down to 320 > W/D, then turning over your last sheet of 320 and going over the board by > hand with the paper side and water. It knocks off the micro-ridges of the > 320 work without removing the scratches. A great surface slipping through > the water. Another weird thing is that some of my abrasives are made in Europe and they have different standards for measuring the grit.I just got a new catalog from 3M and they have stuff out that we board builders have never heard of..mainly in the sand-polish field.Lots of new stuff in the "scotchbrite type thing".The floor finishing suppliers have all kinds of good stuff........I learned something on this string,,,made my day.........R.B.
I cut my discs out by hand, but I'm using a cardboard template to cut them round. So I should try cutting them out square? Once again, how you are cutting them out exactly? Good thread! TS > Oooooooo hell yes.. Pre cut paper sucks.. Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it > with points.. Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering > tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try > it with a pre cut after you'll see. You will never see swirls again... > NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND.... your asking for swirls. When polishing it works > even better.... cut wet dry the same way.. I've cut my paper that way for > over 30 years...>>> Plus pre cut cost more???
>>> RB try using a med Pad for zit and flats it will remove waves in the gloss > better and give you a better finish.. It will have a Surf Tech finish just > like a pop out would out of of a mold... Soft pads float way to much there > to soft..There only made to sand out scratches not flatten..>>> It's like hand sanding with your hand use a padded sanding block with 80 > grit then fine sand with your hand. your hands won't remove the sanding > bands left by the machine.. hi all, i sand with 80, 100. Then spray-paint with PU clear coat. Works fast and clean. Watch out for drops on the rails!! U can watersand with 400 grid an putt on a second layer for an even better look. The PU keeps the yellowing away. See board 365 and fins 357 greetings
>>> I cut my discs out by hand, but I'm using a cardboard template to cut them > round. So I should try cutting them out square? Once again, how you are > cutting them out exactly? Good thread!>>> TS Not square but lets say 10 sided think of a pentagon but more sides.. Leave tips so as the machine is spinning it has these tips that will bend up allowing you to feather and blend without leaving swirls.. I just lay a old pad on a few sheets of paper and outline then cut little stright lines. It also allows you to line up the paper on the pad so as not to be lopsided... Making for a true spin. Hence no swirls.. Like i said it makes foiling fins and working around wings heaven... Just try it and let me know... Old school is still the best........... http://surfnwsc.com
>>> Not square but lets say 10 sided think of a pentagon but more sides.. > Leave tips so as the machine is spinning it has these tips that will bend > up allowing you to feather and blend without leaving swirls.. I just lay a > old pad on a few sheets of paper and outline then cut little stright > lines. It also allows you to line up the paper on the pad so as not to be > lopsided... Making for a true spin. Hence no swirls.. Like i said it makes > foiling fins and working around wings heaven...>>> Just try it and let me know...>>> Old school is still the best........... Hey Rob I cut the paper like you said and it definately made a difference.Like you I have been going at it for thirty plus years and still learn all of the time.I was mainly a shaper and pinline gnome.Sanding and polishing are things that I have to do nowadays.Resin pins and panels are my forte....just cant run em as straight as I used to.......R.B.
>>> Oooooooo hell yes.. Pre cut paper sucks.. Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it > with points.. Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering > tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try > it with a pre cut after you'll see. You will never see swirls again... > NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND.... your asking for swirls. When polishing it works > even better.... cut wet dry the same way.. I've cut my paper that way for > over 30 years...>>> Plus pre cut cost more??? Howzit Rob, this is a good thread, when I was a apprentice I watched my mentor do rub outs and he would cut the paper square. I'm going to try your idea for cutting the paper on my next G/P. There is so much good info in this thread that any one who follows it should be able to turn out a nice finish on a board. I see some rub outs where the texture of the weave is visable when finished and that means it got to hot when using the shurlustre and that reverses the curing process so the board has to recure for another 2 weeks or so.The pro polisher over here likes my finish work but I take twice the time to do them.One tip, when rubbing out the nose and tail rail areas I never use the flat area of the bonnet,instead I use the strands on the outer edge of the bonnet since these are the areas that are easiest to rub thru to the weave and nobody wants that. Aloha, Kokua
>>> Hey Rob I cut the paper like you said and it definately made a > difference.Like you I have been going at it for thirty plus years and > still learn all of the time.I was mainly a shaper and pinline > gnome.Sanding and polishing are things that I have to do nowadays.Resin > pins and panels are my forte....just cant run em as straight as I used > to.......R.B. RB I wish i had the pinline and gloss work down.. But i know that everything you could tell me online wouldn't help me.. it's just go out and do it and do it again... God i love clear sanded finish boards....... But? Nothing looks as nice as a well polished finished board.... The sign of a true master craftsmen... http://surfnwsc.com
>>> Howzit Rob, this is a good thread, when I was a apprentice I watched my > mentor do rub outs and he would cut the paper square. I'm going to try > your idea for cutting the paper on my next G/P. There is so much good info > in this thread that any one who follows it should be able to turn out a > nice finish on a board. I see some rub outs where the texture of the weave > is visable when finished and that means it got to hot when using the > shurlustre and that reverses the curing process so the board has to recure > for another 2 weeks or so.The pro polisher over here likes my finish work > but I take twice the time to do them.One tip, when rubbing out the nose > and tail rail areas I never use the flat area of the bonnet,instead I use > the strands on the outer edge of the bonnet since these are the areas that > are easiest to rub thru to the weave and nobody wants that. Aloha, Kokua Hey Kokua been getting waves... I've had to fix so many bad gloss jobs in my life but i've never reglossed... It's funny that all morning i was doing a polish on this three stringer stock tank. so the whole time i was looking at ways to improve my tricks.. It took me about 45 min. start to finish with a bad bottom gloss. i took it down with 220, 400 then 600. it came out ok. Nice Volan 2 1/2" laps a true tank... I wish i could keep it but need the money you know?? http://surfnwsc.com
>>> Oooooooo hell yes.. Pre cut paper sucks.. Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it > with points.. Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering > tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try > it with a pre cut after you'll see. You will never see swirls again... > NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND.... your asking for swirls. When polishing it works > even better.... cut wet dry the same way.. I've cut my paper that way for > over 30 years...>>> Plus pre cut cost more??? I have never heard of that but it sounds so friggin simple that I will give it a go.Some of these little tricks are the key to a nice job but pros take it for granted.I only use the pre cut discs with 80 grit but I bet that the stiffness is what threw me off.Come to think of it the guy that showed me polishing cut sandpaper in that whacky way you mentioned...I just figured he didn,t give a hoot.Rob you oughta try the 500 grit and see what you think.Muchos Crotchias Bro.......R,B.
Great thread! A neat way to complete a sanded finish is by taking it all down to 320 W/D, then turning over your last sheet of 320 and going over the board by hand with the paper side and water. It knocks off the micro-ridges of the 320 work without removing the scratches. A great surface slipping through the water.
>>> Great thread!>>> A neat way to complete a sanded finish is by taking it all down to 320 > W/D, then turning over your last sheet of 320 and going over the board by > hand with the paper side and water. It knocks off the micro-ridges of the > 320 work without removing the scratches. A great surface slipping through > the water. Another weird thing is that some of my abrasives are made in Europe and they have different standards for measuring the grit.I just got a new catalog from 3M and they have stuff out that we board builders have never heard of..mainly in the sand-polish field.Lots of new stuff in the "scotchbrite type thing".The floor finishing suppliers have all kinds of good stuff........I learned something on this string,,,made my day.........R.B.
I cut my discs out by hand, but I'm using a cardboard template to cut them round. So I should try cutting them out square? Once again, how you are cutting them out exactly? Good thread! TS > Oooooooo hell yes.. Pre cut paper sucks.. Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it > with points.. Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering > tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try > it with a pre cut after you'll see. You will never see swirls again... > NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND.... your asking for swirls. When polishing it works > even better.... cut wet dry the same way.. I've cut my paper that way for > over 30 years...>>> Plus pre cut cost more???
>>> RB try using a med Pad for zit and flats it will remove waves in the gloss > better and give you a better finish.. It will have a Surf Tech finish just > like a pop out would out of of a mold... Soft pads float way to much there > to soft..There only made to sand out scratches not flatten..>>> It's like hand sanding with your hand use a padded sanding block with 80 > grit then fine sand with your hand. your hands won't remove the sanding > bands left by the machine.. hi all, i sand with 80, 100. Then spray-paint with PU clear coat. Works fast and clean. Watch out for drops on the rails!! U can watersand with 400 grid an putt on a second layer for an even better look. The PU keeps the yellowing away. See board 365 and fins 357 greetings
>>> I cut my discs out by hand, but I'm using a cardboard template to cut them > round. So I should try cutting them out square? Once again, how you are > cutting them out exactly? Good thread!>>> TS Not square but lets say 10 sided think of a pentagon but more sides.. Leave tips so as the machine is spinning it has these tips that will bend up allowing you to feather and blend without leaving swirls.. I just lay a old pad on a few sheets of paper and outline then cut little stright lines. It also allows you to line up the paper on the pad so as not to be lopsided... Making for a true spin. Hence no swirls.. Like i said it makes foiling fins and working around wings heaven... Just try it and let me know... Old school is still the best........... http://surfnwsc.com
>>> Not square but lets say 10 sided think of a pentagon but more sides.. > Leave tips so as the machine is spinning it has these tips that will bend > up allowing you to feather and blend without leaving swirls.. I just lay a > old pad on a few sheets of paper and outline then cut little stright > lines. It also allows you to line up the paper on the pad so as not to be > lopsided... Making for a true spin. Hence no swirls.. Like i said it makes > foiling fins and working around wings heaven...>>> Just try it and let me know...>>> Old school is still the best........... Hey Rob I cut the paper like you said and it definately made a difference.Like you I have been going at it for thirty plus years and still learn all of the time.I was mainly a shaper and pinline gnome.Sanding and polishing are things that I have to do nowadays.Resin pins and panels are my forte....just cant run em as straight as I used to.......R.B.
>>> Oooooooo hell yes.. Pre cut paper sucks.. Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it > with points.. Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering > tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try > it with a pre cut after you'll see. You will never see swirls again... > NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND.... your asking for swirls. When polishing it works > even better.... cut wet dry the same way.. I've cut my paper that way for > over 30 years...>>> Plus pre cut cost more??? Howzit Rob, this is a good thread, when I was a apprentice I watched my mentor do rub outs and he would cut the paper square. I'm going to try your idea for cutting the paper on my next G/P. There is so much good info in this thread that any one who follows it should be able to turn out a nice finish on a board. I see some rub outs where the texture of the weave is visable when finished and that means it got to hot when using the shurlustre and that reverses the curing process so the board has to recure for another 2 weeks or so.The pro polisher over here likes my finish work but I take twice the time to do them.One tip, when rubbing out the nose and tail rail areas I never use the flat area of the bonnet,instead I use the strands on the outer edge of the bonnet since these are the areas that are easiest to rub thru to the weave and nobody wants that. Aloha, Kokua
>>> Hey Rob I cut the paper like you said and it definately made a > difference.Like you I have been going at it for thirty plus years and > still learn all of the time.I was mainly a shaper and pinline > gnome.Sanding and polishing are things that I have to do nowadays.Resin > pins and panels are my forte....just cant run em as straight as I used > to.......R.B. RB I wish i had the pinline and gloss work down.. But i know that everything you could tell me online wouldn't help me.. it's just go out and do it and do it again... God i love clear sanded finish boards....... But? Nothing looks as nice as a well polished finished board.... The sign of a true master craftsmen... http://surfnwsc.com
>>> Howzit Rob, this is a good thread, when I was a apprentice I watched my > mentor do rub outs and he would cut the paper square. I'm going to try > your idea for cutting the paper on my next G/P. There is so much good info > in this thread that any one who follows it should be able to turn out a > nice finish on a board. I see some rub outs where the texture of the weave > is visable when finished and that means it got to hot when using the > shurlustre and that reverses the curing process so the board has to recure > for another 2 weeks or so.The pro polisher over here likes my finish work > but I take twice the time to do them.One tip, when rubbing out the nose > and tail rail areas I never use the flat area of the bonnet,instead I use > the strands on the outer edge of the bonnet since these are the areas that > are easiest to rub thru to the weave and nobody wants that. Aloha, Kokua Hey Kokua been getting waves... I've had to fix so many bad gloss jobs in my life but i've never reglossed... It's funny that all morning i was doing a polish on this three stringer stock tank. so the whole time i was looking at ways to improve my tricks.. It took me about 45 min. start to finish with a bad bottom gloss. i took it down with 220, 400 then 600. it came out ok. Nice Volan 2 1/2" laps a true tank... I wish i could keep it but need the money you know?? http://surfnwsc.com
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