yeah, me neither. i just glassed a blue board and had no problems, also did a red. man i have to get some of these boards up.the boards were sprayed with clear acrylic, and still no problems. ???
Howzit Herb, Speaking of paints, I spent about 3 hrs. with a pro airbrusher yesterday who works in L.A. for a major glassing co. This guy blew me away with his techniques. He does 1 heavy coat of paint and it's done. There's no crystalazation (even with red or black) and no color bleed when layed up. Ever heard of Nova color paint?, it's an insane high quality acrylic paint that covers really good.I watched him do 4 complete multi colored boards in 2 hrs, I was really impressed. I'm waiting for a color chart and shipping cost price list from the co. Checked out the prices of the paint and they're cheaper than Fiberglass Hi., but the shipping costs will probably change that.Aloha, Kokua www.novacolorpaint.com/index.html
Herb I am using an automotive acrylic laquer on burford blanks (from Oz).So lets say I have sprayed the board a mid blue all over.I glass the bottom it goes off I flip the board then baste the lap with a 1-2 inch wide layer of lam resin say 5 ounces and 7.5mls mekp let this go off sand lap smooth glass deck hot coat deck first covering lap on bottom of board also.flip board sand lap down, paint any exposed weave with styrene then tape off and hotcoat bottom.At this point the area that I painted lam resin on the deck is already noticeably a different shade of blue and once board is sanded and glossed it stands out like dogs balls.Now for the bottom of the board.I have found that by following the procedure above the bottom looks good until you leave the board in the sun for say a couple of hours of direct sunlight on the bottom of the board,then I notice a cloudyness all the way around where the deck has lapped onto the bottom, the more exposure the worse it gets!!!HELP!
I read the post and if I may offer a couple of ideas... when you describe cloudiness after sun exposure, I'm thinking moisture under the glass. Are you allowing plenty of time between paint coats? Are you allowing the paint to dry completely before glassing? Short cutting either step may trap moisture which gets trapped under the glass possibly leading to the cloudiness you describe after sun exposure.
John i usually put the boards on the rack for about an hour before I glass and as acrylic is so fast drying moisture shouldn't be a problem.I have even put sprayed blanks in the sun for an hour to make sure they are dry but the end result is the same.A friend suggested that with blues and reds or deck sprays that I squeegee lam over the entire deck instead of just basting the lap I have done this and it improves the discolouration around the lap on the deck but it adds weight and the gloss coats never look as smooth when I have done this.????
Kokua, Thanks for the tip.....wheew!got it right that time!Herb
Kokua, Ive seen the Nova paint crystalize and run. On the other hand I think the airbrusher using them was adding too much water lowering the acrylic level. Styrene in the resin is pretty aggressive, it is important to keep the acrylic level up in your paint. One method is to use acrylic floor sealer instead of water to thin the paint. Sluggo
Check the Nova resource Kokua provided... they offer some instructions for their paint that requires more drying time than you might think. I reread your post though and I'm afraid I can't explain why the cloudiness is only at the laps.
Howzit Sluggo, he didn't thin it out very much, he does add some tempra paint and he sprays at 80 psi.Aloha, Kokua
......I've never used Buford blanks before,but I have seen them here in the USA as a finished board and they do seem to yellow quickly compared to Clark's.If you're in Oz try SouthCoast foam.....where's Rabbit when you need him? ........AND change paints possibly to Liquitex or another type of waterbased paint instead of a automotive paint.This is only a suggestion,but between the blank and paint is where your problem ly.Herb