Leashes? We don't need no stinking leashes...
I recall the first leashes sold commercially as being nothing but bungee cord with a nylon, non-adjustable webbing strap that went around your ankle. The surgical tubing with nylon line style came after. We used to drill a hole through the finbox, much like is done today for a leash loop. But, we'd put the cord through the hole and tie a knot on the underside.
This space reserved to mock trolls
Pre '70 for sure, in both LA and SantaCruz.
Jan. '70, RockyWhite and I used homemade leashes for a tiny day at Bolinas, the Channel. We read about it in SurferMag., or some other mag. The issue must have been printed mid summer of '69.
Yes, leashes can take blame for the influx of surfer's today. Imagine paddlng out at SloatOBSF without a leash on a 8' day breaking in the outside sandbars.
LeeD wrote: Imagine paddlng out at SloatOBSF without a leash on a 8' day breaking in the outside sandbars.
Imagine almost anything North Shore, in the 20 foot +/- range. Separates the men from the boys, real fast!
Huge difference. I surfed Sunset when RickyGregg was sitting 200 yards outside the next outside guy, me. Surfed Wiamea the morning before Booby got his tube ride in '77 on his red board, saw it from the S cliffs eating a KuiAina Burger after that morning sesh, passenger seat of RockyWhite's car, with his fellow ex SEAL teamer in the backseat...who didn't go out with us that morning.
OBSF is much hairier. You get wet paddling out at OBSF. You can't just stand there and time the sets, run and jump aboard to glide out with two tiny backing off punchthrus.
OBSF, on a 8' day, you WILL get to attempt to push thru a 8' wave, every single time you head out. 51 degree waters, 50 degree airs, make a difference.
Jeff Clark is afraid to surf OBSF at over 8'. Every SanFrancisco big wave surfer knows this.
'Jeff Clark is afraid to surf OBSF at over 8'. Every SanFrancisco big wave surfer knows this.'.
Surfed OB year around from 1962' to 2006 which is when I moved to Oregon. And still surf it whenever I can on my frequent visits back down. Not claiming biggest days, surfed plenty of mid-beach TOH bluebird days.
Have known Jeff since he was a teenager, and have surfed hundreds of sessions with him over the decades, from OB to points south.
2 years ago met up with Jef mid-beach OB and surfed hella fun DOH-TOH with him and Grant Washburn. Until I rode one in too far and just couldn't make it out again.
Last winter saw him out in TOH north sloat, scoring bombs on his SUK.
If the point you're trying to make is OB is tough, it sure is.
At size it is the most brutal and demanding paddle out anywhere, often requiring 45 minute relentless battle against non-stop stacked white water walls, trying to penetrate to the outside zone.
Once outside, a constant paddle to chase down waves and fight currents that suck you north or south at the rate of a fast walk, often ending a session in which maybe you caught 3 waves and ended up a half mile or more from where you originally paddled out.
But trying to frame just how brutal OB is by saying Jeff Clark is afraid of it is just wrong.
Easily the least afraid guy I've ever known.
If it's because Jeff isn't seen on the really big days at OB, it's because he's spent his time at Mavericks on those swells.
OB is a wave that can beat the crap outta ya. Mavericks, however, can kill you.
No, Jeff's not afraid.