paddle out catch one ride it all the way thru
step off at the beach go in go home,...
...ambrose...
january 13 2015 waipouli kauai
straight out 1/8 mile...
waipouli surf club
only one out.
know the feeling.
gliding regally reef to reef
step off on the sand
nothing like that timeless feeling, eh?
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
just had that experience 2 days ago here on the Oregon coast
surfing an outer bar at the local, swell 7 @ 19
long paddle out, had to bust through a bunch on my 7'9, lotta work
got a nice deep one that linked up the sections
halfway back out the biggest sets of the morning came rolling in, apparently non-stop
soon found myself starting the hike up the beach back to the car
Pau
know the feeling.
gliding regally reef to reef
step off on the sand
nothing like that timeless feeling, eh?
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
www.mattysurfboards.com
just had that experience 2 days ago here on the Oregon coast
surfing an outer bar at the local, swell 7 @ 19
long paddle out, had to bust through a bunch on my 7'9, lotta work
got a nice deep one that linked up the sections
halfway back out the biggest sets of the morning came rolling in, apparently non-stop
soon found myself starting the hike up the beach back to the car
Pau