Huck , Danno pulled that shit here in Oahu a few times until someone wispered in his ear and he settled down .
That's funny, pretty good surfer, but I kinda feel sorry for the guys out there all attitude and no aloha, seems like they're missing the boat on what this sport is all about.
had the 8-8 Matty out this morning, one of those weird days where the waves way better than anyone anticipated, nobody showed up, and a handful of us had all we wanted. 2-4' glassy and peeling. After an hour and a half I came in exhausted, wasn't even 7 a.m. yet.
Anyway full two thumbs up on the Matty, such a fun fast board, a confidence booster to ride, don't know what pixie dust he put in that thing, but it's amazing! Feels really lively underfoot, a great feeling, like its on ball bearings or something. My only problem (operator error) was in late grinding takeoffs, always a weak point of mine anyway. But when I could get in a hair early, look out! I'm taking this one all the way in, wave after wave. Some guy I don't even know paddled up and said I got the wave of the day.
Thanks for the kudo
There is some vodoo in that ride.
You know it has been a long R&D
I think "losing the hips" and
not being aggressive with the concaves
I would rather be someone's shot of whiskey, than everyone's cup of tea.
Everybody seems to have little boxes in which they live and surf. I ain't saying I'm breaking down any walls - I'm 40+ years past my prime.
Just ride what you like and let the rest of 'em bugger off.
All right... I'm gonna spill the beans so pay attention here. The 'secret sauce' is just a couple of padded closet poles that fit in to some sleeves mounted under the workbench. It isn't my garage and those aren't my photos and that isn't my board but I did make it.
Well cool Matty, I figured as much (r&d) since I'd seen the other board in person. The board is kinda opposite of what I'm doing in a lot of ways, and yet it works great for me. It's thin where mine are thick, hence, skinny rails where mine are fat. Longboard template and rocker, where mine are more midlength template and rocker. The quad fin configuration we have in common, but I've never put them on a longboard.
Eventually I'll get it out in a variety of conditions, but it sure was working well today. And that's with the plastic composite fins, I'm also gonna put some fiberglass fins in and see if I can tell the difference.
I got a healthy nose ding recently, but haven't had the opportunity to repair it. I might just duct tape the ding and take a break from the Wing Squad and give it another go this coming week.
I've been spending time with the wing squad because I notice when I stick with one board, my surfing improves. Switching back and forth a lot is difficult for me as a surfer, although necessary as a surfboard designer.
Quote: Everybody seems to have little boxes in which they live and surf. I ain't saying I'm breaking down any walls - I'm 40+ years past my prime.
John I know you make and ride the boards that work for you, but there are a lot of guys (like me too) 40 years past our prime who I'd love to get to try my boards, just to see if it could help them as much as its helped me to get more waves and have more fun.
So I've recently done some work on my Beachcomber fun gun, per other threads, and thinking of spending some time with that board coming up, if I can find some waves with just a bit more push than the little peelers I've been riding lately.
This one is the most extreme of "big boy" high volume boards, and I'd like to see if I can get the mastery of it. I've come pretty far with the wing squad, but there's still plenty of room for improvement. I'm not a talented quick adapter like Dustin, Matty's team rider, I really have to spend time with each board before I begin to get comfortable with it.
Especially these high volume boards, which are great wave catchers, but take some getting used to. Perseverance pays off in stoke and wave count. I'm thinking of eventually going back to a bit smaller boards, but I want these boards in my quiver as I age, and I want to have mastered them to the point of feeling comfortable, so I have something to grab when I just cant ride the 7-somethings anymore.
I'm still around!
A little fishing Nazi going on with me...
I know that the stepped down rail and volume are the key...
Ah, for oldpharts wanting to max wave count.
Relax my friend as the same concept (board) made by a "name" would catch fire.
Welcome to the underground,
Advancement in design that is "snubbed" by the main stream.
"Let the jerks suffer".
I mean if Kelly rode it?
Keep the faith!
Thanx Matty the jury is still out on the fun gun, I really haven't spent enough time with it to figure out if I like it or not. (edit to add: after a week in solid swell, the verdict is in - I love the board!)
My wave count lately has been good enough I should probably just be happy with that, but I'm always looking for ways to improve on what I have. And of course, there's always a desire to share the stoke, and the curiosity to see if the shapes could work for anyone else.
human nature I guess :-). At any rate, I've moved on from that for the present, my plate is full with other stuff, but like to come here and make a note of where my thinking is on the subject. I'm constantly tweaking my opinions, as I go.
Keep it up. There's people out there that are listening. It is appreciated.
Send me your dinged, damaged, and yellowed.
Thanks Monkstar1, btw, where did that name come from?
I'm sure I'm repeating myself here, but to sum up at this point, I've decided that the maximum practical surfboard volume is way way higher than what most people think. More volume can really help with the wave count, with paddling ease and speed, and with some practise, can be handled on the wave face just fine. Its a bear to duck dive, and if that's a big priority, then forget the high volume. But there are other ways to get through a breaking wave, and while added volume admittedly doesn't enhance performance, its not an outright performance killer either.
For an older surfer who is finding it difficult to get waves in a crowd, who wants to catch waves like a longboard without going to a full longboard shape, who doesn't want to go the stand-up rowboat road, switching to a high volume surfboard is a viable option. Its a worthwhile trade-off if you're willing to take the time to make the adjustment (call it a learning curve), and I'm loving it. Having fun at sixty-one (ok, thats still a few weeks off, but I liked the way it sounded).
There is a strong prejudice against thicker high-volume boards, so your board won't be considered sexy or fashionable. But if catching waves and having fun is the bigger priority, then its a worthwhile journey.
The last few days in south swell conditions with overhead sets, I have been feeling my age. Lung capacity isn't what it used to be (guess I need to start running again). Not sure how much longer I'll be out there in the overhead surf, so I'm really happy for each and every wave I get now, might as well enjoy the ride as long as I can, and my four high-volume big-boy fat-boards have been a big help. And the longboards too. In fact, I have a Matty 8-8 that approaches everything from an opposite angle, its thin where mine are thick, longboard shape and rocker where mine are midlength shape and rocker, and yet I love that board! So I'm not claiming my fat boards as the be-all do-all, just another viable option worth exploring.
Sometimes I wish there were more guys out there willing to jump on this bandwagon and post up their efforts, give these boards a try, or heck, even just jump in and contribute something to the conversation, but in the end, this has been my personal battle, my personal journey, my personal choice. I have been happy to share it here, but I would still love to find another site where there might be more interest in the stuff I build.
Some guys still ride shortboards well into their sixties. Some guys just ride longboards as they get older, and are happy with that. I like that I have a third option, that falls somewhere between those two. This is the realm of the midlength, of course, but mine are midlengths specifically for the older / heavier surfer.
The other day a guy paddled up to me and started complaining I was getting too many waves! Which is ironic, me being a 60 year old guy who just started surfing again a few years back, who paddles out for 3 or 4 waves then heads off to work. But I think it does say something about the wave catching ability of my board. (I think I just happened to get a couple in a row that he wanted.)
Still riding my old guy boards, lately its been the wing squad and the beachcomber, but mostly the wing squad. I took a bad wipe out on the Banana Boat, and it needs a new fin plug now. And my body is still sore after two weeks!
I find I tend to ride further back on the Gordita than I want to, I'm thinking of losing the stomp deck in back and see if that makes any difference. Add it to my list of projects I'm behind on, haha. Really like the beachcomber as a quad.
I have switched to Pro Teck (safety) fins on my quads since the injury, and have no complaints about the performance so far. They're stiff enough I'm sure I'd still be hurting now even if my wipe out injury occured with the Pro Tecks, but they seem much safer as regards the sharp cutting edge of a normal fin.