Ghostshaper, I've designed out the fuselage but this foil I'm showing you will be infinitely variable.
Gdaddy, to answer your questions.
"So the first question I have is what these wings do the paddling characteristics of the board? If I start off with a 9ft longboard is the wing going to add to or detract from the effort it takes to get it going fast enough for the lift to kick in? "
Gdaddy this is why weve chosen this flat section and mount the foil directly on top.
The foil will be parallel to the hull and there's almost no paddling difference with the foil. Your foil is going to be light and tight under your board and a lot unlike the commercial ones that are up to 1.5 inches thick and 3 feet away creating drag.
Your second question about cant I've never looked into but let's get the parts together and then see if can't could be incorporated.
Once you lift up on a foil its all yours to control from the air, so there's no stepping fore or aft. . Putting the foil in this flat area is for flow, where you stand will be directly over the foil. Those numbers are perfect fo that board, now put a mark directly in the middle of that area. For you that's at 33 inches up.
so you've found a mark in the middle of that flattest section on the board and it moves with the board length so everyone's numbers are going to be different by a few inches.
Bookmarking this one!!!!! Onto the ever growing to do list!!!!
Sunshine Coast (hoax) Queensland Australia
It should go without saying but I'd like to also thank you sharing with us. I'm taking EVERYTHING you're saying very seriously and giving the info and your efforts the respect it's due. It's apparent that you also have the undivided attention of other regulars here.
As for the angled struts that's a possibility we can explore later, after we've sussed out the other big variables.
Without knowing much about the subject it seems intuitive that maintaining balance and control will be easier with a "tight" gap between wing and board vs an elevated gap. It strikes me as being similar to learning how to walk on stilts - easier on shorter stilts and harder on longer ones that will be more sensitive to control inputs.
Thank you Gdaddy, I'm very happy to share too.
Yes keeping the foil closer to the board reduces the weight and paddling drag but increases the safety and response time when riding.
Some other foils have a single lifting foil with the trailing foil digging in to keep a +Ve AOA and then the rider stands in front to balance the digging in of the rear foil. Does that sound less than effective ?
The foil shape is up to 1.5 inches thick and is on a 3 foot mast which gives excellent low power lift but drags due to the volume, distance and weight ( up to 11 lbs for some retail foils ) and costs $1500 for the foil alone.
I guarantee we can make an improvement on most of that.
You've ended up with a single mark on the stringer in the middle of your flat area.
Now draw a parrallel line on both sides of the stringer. It has to be exactly 4 inches away from the stringer and for 12 inches Up from the mark and 12 inches Down from the mark.
Just 2 lines 24 inches long, but do it carefully please.
Any problems or questions ?? because that's it for the board until we install the foil.
If i were to shape a board just for this. Most likely a simmons type shape with 0 tail rocker, as i have heard this is best since the board is just a paddling vessel until the foil engages. Would my marks and measurements be the same?
On a McCoy 8ft Nugget, there is a small flat spot on the bottom, but it is located around the centre of the board, not in the tail area. But the board is surfed from the tail.
I'm not sure how to find the right spot for the centre of those parallel lines, yet.
To answer Deez and MrMiks questions...
Deez, If you have a very flat tail rocker, then position the foil anywhere along the flattest part that suits your regular stance. If its all equally flat then there's no specific flat section to align the foil. For a flat tail rocker put a mark in the middle of your regular stance on this board. So even if you made a specific foil board, the marks would be about the same because the dynamics of surfing would stay the same...You'll always need more nose than tail and need to stand nearer the tail.
For boards like MrMik is saying that has a continuous rocker and a smaller defined flat area nearer the middle ( usually on single fin boards) then use the smaller flat spot as the front limit and draw the lines from that point back towards the tail.
The McCoys have a great advantage of being thick and squat.
My best advice is that if you run into a problem it's just easier to pick another board and move on.
I'm marked up.
You know, the comparison that comes to mind with the single mast vs multi-masts is the technical difficulty of riding a unicycle vs a bicycle or tri-cycle. Of controlling a singlefin on a steep drop vs a twin or thruster. Only exaggerated when using a long mast.
Robin Mair uses the term "center of effort" with his fin designs, which is kind of self-explanatory. A single fin array has a different center of effort that a twin or thruster.
And speaking of masts, they're basically fins or keels as far as directional stability goes, right? So, no need for additional fins.