I've had a couple of surfs now and I'm really digging the board. Obviously I think its 10x better than it probably is because i had some input but overall I'm stoked. Absolutely love the look of the stringer and volan laps/patches so I added a couple more pics.
The first surf was in waist high waves and it felt pretty neutral and similar to my old board which was a good sign. Nice and stable but loosens up when you step back onto the tail. We were lucky enough to get some swell so I took it to a local beach around low tide for the next surf and it felt right at home in the steeper stuff even with a bit of lump and bump. Lots of closeouts but also some sneaky runners. Catches waves super easily and has speed to burn. The bottom ended up pretty much flat with just a slight vee out the tail so that definitely helps. The extra weight from the volan is noticeable but it feels very stable and it just cruises through chop. I even managed to get a little travel time before the closeout on one wave which will always make a session stand out.
I only have a 9" fin right now so I'll try and find something smaller and see how that works. Also would love to get it on a nice point wave and see how it handles some proper turns. Overall I'm really stoked and already planning the next one haha!
Hey again I'm loving my board! I have another idea/question for a similar board and thought rather than start a new thread I'd keep this one going.
I saw a 9' something Christensen C-Bucket that looked amazing. Similar outline to mine but stretched out. It looked great, but as to how it surfs I haven't got a clue? I had been thinking about a stretched version of my board above for proper big stuff and maybe just the odd cruisy surf. There are a few bombies around here that hold quite a bit of size and I'd be keen to make something to give them a nudge and maybe still use when it's smaller. Would a shape and design similar to this one work in even bigger waves? Am I asking too much of one board?
Anyway I had been thinking that I could keep a similar width ~21-21.5" but stretch it into the 9'-9'6" range and thicken it through the middle to 3"+ . Add more vee throughout the board and increase the rocker to 6" nose and 3" tail? Is this too little or too much for this style of board? Probably just keep it as a single again for simplicity.
Just interested to see what everyone thinks about this sort of stretched single fin. If it seems reasonable I might go ahead with it.
And just a big thanks to everyone who helped with the last one. The input here was invaluable and the board turned out great. Cheers!!! :)
Here's one to show what I'm thinking.
9'6" x 21 3/4" x 3 1/8"
3" tail rocker and 5 1/2" nose rocker.
I put a hard edge into the middle section on that one just to maximise foam through the middle. It smooths off at the nose and tail.
Looks good! Good job on the midlength. I am attempting something similar but with a vee bottom.
I am looking for feedback on vee and rocker dimensions. Aiming for something from evolution/sea of joy era but a bit more managable. More vee perhaps? I am aware the rails are pretty hard, I am hoping to refine rails by hand.. Any thoughts?
7'4 x 22 x 2.5
2'' Tail rocker, 3.9'' Nose rocker
All good... the 7'4" by HotBruce and the 9'6" by awa1l looking outstanding.
If I had one bit of advice and it's not meant as a put down or anything... if you're going to go with two stringers, consider spacing them a bit farther apart so they sandwich the box. It adds to the structural component immensely. Routing through the wood for the box install really compromises the integrity of the stringer right at the front of the box where structural integrity is most needed in any kind of impact on the fin.
Many used boards with single fin boxes have cracks directly at the front of the box. I've seen quite a few boards snapped in two right there where the stringer gets cut down to a fraction of it's former thickness for the box install. Two stringers are great... they add a lot of strength and when placed correctly, offer a lot of support for the single fin box.
Figured I'd just add this onto here and keep this thread rolling....
Didn't quite go to 9ft+ this time, but getting there ha!
8'0" x 22 1/8" x 3"
The other one ended up a little gunny so I made sure this one packed in some extra width and volume. Have had a few surfs in a range of waves and so far so good! Next step will be a 9 footer for sure!
Your boards are beautiful!
I have an 8-4 and a nine footer both single fin boards with similar planshape, and they consistently perform well for me in a variety of conditions (mostly backside point break).
The links will give you a few more details if interested. Check the quiver archives for more inspiration, especially from resinhead in the 7 foot plus category.
I have to say tho at nine foot you're out of the midlength category and into longboard territory.
"It still will happen, from time to time, this magic moment, when you're out with only a few friends..." - G. Rainfray
The OP is clearly shooting for designs that handle bigger conditions - getting in early and setting a rail.
I like the 1968 transition era designs with the wide point back and have been using them for a number of years. But it's a niche design that doesn't work (FOR ME) in pitching beachbreak runners. I only use them in relatively slow and smaller conditions as a means of getting the most out of the wave. Really, in lieu of a longboard.
GDaddy add a quad set and that board will be fine in steep waves.
According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.