Instead of the dremel and sanding drum, I recommend a flap wheel
In my limited opinion EPS next to outer skin is a flawed concept, regardless of the inner springers. Use the springers to waterproof the EPS core.
Ok, it's an old one, but found something interesting and worth to share.
The template seem to be all complete in the FCS Fusion install manual. Just open the PDF in Corel Draw (or Inkscape, freeware), get the curves from the item 3 on page 1. The curves seems incomplete, but not, is just partialy hiden under a white retangle.
Already compared with a template picture and it matches perfectly!
I just need the exact mesurement of width and height of the retangle jig (the same in the picture, there seems to be some diferent ones...). Would anyone there have one to precisely measure for me? It would be great to have also the thickness of the jig and the depth of the recess. I promisse to post here the "ready to print jig template in PDF" after having those measures. By the way, which paper size do you international people most use? Letter or A4?
Ok, I agree with someone who said that it's too much effort (money-time) for a $seiláquanto jig, but there are just no jigs to buy here where I live, so I have no other good options.. even so, yes, whe are DIY guys, so why not to have some fun?! ...
The manual: https://www.foamez.com/pdfs/Fusion_Manual_Final_200901.pdf
The picture I compared with: http://www.foamez.com/fcs-fusion-install-kit-jig-bit-p-711.html
I have the Fusion jig (before seeing this otherwise I would have made my own). I have a question which I can't find an answer to anywhere .The "toe in marks" - what the hell are these for? Surely you draw lines of the direction you want fins to point, then use the CENTRE line for all three boxes on a thruster? Why the L and R marks? I don't get it. Grateful if someone could explain because I have to do my fins shortly. Thanks
PS in case its relevant, I don't have any "shapers marks". I am copying a board so i just measured the location of the fin boxes and used a straight edge to align the side fins and measure how far off the nose the lines converge. Does this mean I don't need to use the L and R marks? Even if that's the case, still curious to understand what they are for
Helter, the marks on the jigs are to allow you to rout the box hole in the right location based on the shaper's marks.
It makes sense...if you let it.
Imagine you made a board and you were shipping it out for glassing where the boxes or glass-ons were to be installed.
You know exactly where you want the fins, either from experience or Googling or asking on Sway's.
So you mark the location where the trailing edge of the fin meets the board (dot) and it's appropriate toe-in towards the nose (line) aka shaper's marks...
Now you have a marking system that works regardless of the box system or glass-on used.
Since box fins have tabs, tabs have thickness, the rout needs to be offset 1/2 the tab thickness to put the leading and trailing edge of the fin back on the shaper's marks.
The marks on the jigs are so one does not have to 'do the math'.
Also just mentioned here too: https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/why-target-offset-futures-fins-install-kit
Be safe, have fun. -J
JR (Ewing?!!!) I always appreciate your generous and useful comments, thanks very much. I wasn't 100% clear even after your length explanation (my fault, not yours!) but that other thread cleared up the one remaining confusion for me. I assumed (assumption being the mother of all fuck ups :D) that the tabs are CENTRAL in the boxes whether talking about centre fins or side fins. They do look it to my eye at a glance anyway. But now I realise the inside face of the side fins is flat and the outside isn't, the line must be taken from the inside. Got it, AT LAAAAAAAAAST! I had this confusion a year or so ago when I first installed fusions and haven't done it again until now so I was stood measuring with a $100 vernier and still scratching my head! I think part of the reason I get this confusion is because I take bad measurements when I build a board (accurate, but bad choice of measurements). In other words instead of using toe angle in degrees, i copy a board I own and like, by measuring where the side fins converge off the nose, which I don't convert to degrees, so I still get a line for the side fins direction but not based on degrees or conventional "toe in" such as "1/8th" or "1/4". I just measure the leading and trailing edges of the side fins from the stringer. Bad approach I think and will try to find a better way in future. Anyway, thanks again very much for answering just in time before I grab the router :)
You are welcome. If you look at some of the major systems side-by-side, they all have markings to allow for this.
Probox, Gearbox, homemade Culprit/Ausfinco/ FCS X2, and Futures.
I had only seen the Fusion jig so I can see this is the norm. I think one of the reasons I had trouble understanding is because I thought the foremost dot went on the MIDDLE and the REAR dot went on L or R, so I was trying like mad to understand how it wouldn't change the toe in, which of course it would!! I see now, it just shifts them over towards the rail to align the inner flat face with the shaper's dots/fin line. I knew this would be a case of "easy once you get it" and it is, just wish it didn't take so long for me to get it :D. Ho hum, thanks again for your patience and time explaining