The image above was inserted into PowerPoint.
Below, it has been divided into 10 equal segments.
Measure image width at each interval. Divide each width by image length (width/length),
Let us say you want a 70-inch board. Multiply 70 inches by the width/length for each interval. That will be your width for every 7-inch interval.
[However, if you want a specific maximum width for a given length, you will have to play with (proportionally adjust) the width/length ratios:
http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2016/01/re-sizing-full-size-surfboard-templa...http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2013/10/picture-to-template-to-resize.html ]
A framing square, a piece of masonite...
Accept. Reject. It does not affect me.
Based on dimensions in the chart Huck posted, and the actual width and length of the image in post #10, the board depicted would be very close to 20" x 74".
Width intervals shown would be every 7.4".
_____
i have has success with the projectors at work.
I insert the pic into word, project on the board whiteboard, measure the dims, on the board. then do a ratio calculation to increase the up and down and then the side to side dims (use percentage increase) in the picture format section in word.
then place some cardboard on the white board with tape and trace away.
doesnt account for the change in shape due to the curve of rocker but it gives a good idea.
You guys are fantastic at this stuff. Thanks so much. If I can pull this off; I'll be in the "Shape Off" at Del Mar in 2019. (LOL). If I don't drop dead from exhaustion first. I will keep you posted on this and update my progress from time to time. Got a lot on my plate. Lowel
like
1
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
You guys are fantastic at this stuff. Thanks so much. If I can pull this off; I'll be in the "Shape Off" at Del Mar in 2019. (LOL). If I don't drop dead from exhaustion first. I will keep you posted on this and update my progress from time to time. Got a lot on my plate. Lowel
I found that semi-circle tail to be more difficult to get right than the concave. Every time I took a second critical look at it I wanted to adjust it. Difficult to get the aesthetics right to the eye.
Spackled the bottom. Finding good spackle has become a bit of a problem. My “go to” Ace Hardware Liteweight Spackle has been reformulated with an Optical Brightner, So now it’s too blue. Found some nice creamy stuff at the Sherwin/Williams Paint store.
I just tried the Sherwin/Williams spackle the other day. I really like it. Used it right out of the container without thinning. Way better than the last batch of DAP Fast N Final I had. I bought a larger container of DAP and it took a while to use it. I should have dumped it and switched when people started commenting on the difference. The Sherwin/Williams stuff seems like the old DAP mix.
For scaling shapes of boards I wanted to copy, I would use Adobe Illustrator and draw a board's outline curve from an image (only one side). Once the outline was created, I would open the Illustrator file in Photoshop with whatever length and width I wanted. Then I would cut the full size image into pieces I could print on 11 x 17 paper. Each page has guide lines to reassemble an accurate full scale template. Then I'd print, cut, and tape them together and transfer that to masonite or poster board for a stiffer template. I think this is how Blending Curves makes their templates.
I also drew up my own designs this way. Once you have something full scale, you can move the wide point around and tweak the nose or tail curve with photoshop. You need a decent computer because the files get pretty big.
You can open an image in Photoshop and just scale it to whatever length and width you want, but the pixellation gets bad. But, if you just use that as a guide and have nice flexible battons, you can make a nice clean line along the pixelated edge. You still need to print it out to full scale.
I don't have Illustrator now that Adobe switched to the annual licence. My old computer with Windows XP had it, but I use a Mac now.
moonbeam_GridB.png
moonbeam_Grid.png
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
@reclaim_surf formerly Skatement
(Adam) Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
Go get 'em Lowel !
No; It's not an ironing board.
Alrighty then. Here are a few pics of the not quite completed shape
2A20D330-F811-453C-9700-AC54DE9BA09F.jpeg
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
The blank is my favorite EPS Foam. Marko. A 6’8” Fish type blank that I will have to look up the name and number of later.
7FFFEAD6-5DBC-4C06-B615-6E2FC57246DD.jpeg
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
I found that semi-circle tail to be more difficult to get right than the concave. Every time I took a second critical look at it I wanted to adjust it. Difficult to get the aesthetics right to the eye.
EDEC3526-C37B-4BC1-8A31-6DC108A793C7.jpeg
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
Spackled the bottom. Finding good spackle has become a bit of a problem. My “go to” Ace Hardware Liteweight Spackle has been reformulated with an Optical Brightner, So now it’s too blue. Found some nice creamy stuff at the Sherwin/Williams Paint store.
2375DA67-FC0F-40CC-B177-E7637B6E6E18.jpeg
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
I just tried the Sherwin/Williams spackle the other day. I really like it. Used it right out of the container without thinning. Way better than the last batch of DAP Fast N Final I had. I bought a larger container of DAP and it took a while to use it. I should have dumped it and switched when people started commenting on the difference. The Sherwin/Williams stuff seems like the old DAP mix.
For scaling shapes of boards I wanted to copy, I would use Adobe Illustrator and draw a board's outline curve from an image (only one side). Once the outline was created, I would open the Illustrator file in Photoshop with whatever length and width I wanted. Then I would cut the full size image into pieces I could print on 11 x 17 paper. Each page has guide lines to reassemble an accurate full scale template. Then I'd print, cut, and tape them together and transfer that to masonite or poster board for a stiffer template. I think this is how Blending Curves makes their templates.
I also drew up my own designs this way. Once you have something full scale, you can move the wide point around and tweak the nose or tail curve with photoshop. You need a decent computer because the files get pretty big.
You can open an image in Photoshop and just scale it to whatever length and width you want, but the pixellation gets bad. But, if you just use that as a guide and have nice flexible battons, you can make a nice clean line along the pixelated edge. You still need to print it out to full scale.
I don't have Illustrator now that Adobe switched to the annual licence. My old computer with Windows XP had it, but I use a Mac now.
Pages