Machado's "Moonbeam "

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004
Anyone have access to a "Moonbeam". An associate asked me to make him one. The rocker and thickness are no problem. I understand and feel that I can duplicate the ""beater" concave and moon tail fairly easy. What I need are Width measurements every six or twelve inches on a particular length. Using that length and those width measurements; I should be able to Scale the board up to something longer as most of those boards are sub six footers(5'7" etc.). Surely somebody out there either owns one or has a friend who does. If not I may be going around to Surf shops with a tape measure. Lowel
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
This might fall under the category: "that's not what I asked for", so feel free to ignore if this doesn't help. But the Moonbeam is well documented online, with photos, dimensions, and verbal descriptions. There is enough that I think I could make a pretty good replica just using the info they are giving away, without having to sneak out the tape at the surfshop. And anyway, this is gonna be your interpretation, so slavish adherence to numbers isn't a requirement, in my opinion. Sometimes I will rough cut my template a little large, take a pic, and view it next to a pic of an outline I'm shooting for. Any blatant discrepancies show up right away. And if it's not quite the same, it's cuz you probably improved it anyway, no extra charge.
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
More pics and video,,,
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stoneburner's picture
Joined: 12/30/2007
@ McD The image at this link is fairly high resolution. https://d3vmktulshtd50.cloudfront.net/cl/FIR2ABS8MD/v/D2MDS50MW6/preview... Save it. (I saved the image. Photoshop shows it to be roughly 3 inches wide by 9 inches tall.) Print it. Measure it in millimeters. Measure length and divide it into to 10-15 equal intervals -- more if you like. Measure width at each interval. Determine width to length ratio for each interval (width divided by length). You can use these ratios for each interval to determine width for any length you choose. (i.e. multiply desired length by the width/length ratio determined for each length interval.) Just my $0.02.
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Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical

RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html

johnmellor's picture
Joined: 03/17/2004
Lowel - With those images it shouldn't be too problematic to print them out on your computer. Take those to a copy center with a machine that allows you to enlarge or reduce. Make adjustments to give you a scaled version that will make it easy to convert... I.E. if you want a 6 foot board, make sure your copy machine print is exactly 6" long on paper. There is a formula for that involving basic math. With that new image you should be able to do some more basic math and scale it up to full size on some wrapping paper... 1" = 1', 1/2" = 6", 1/4" = 3", etc. So make some marks at every inch and scale the dimensions up to every foot on paper. Once you have something that looks reasonable on paper, cut out and transfer to masonite. If you do it somewhat carefully, you should have a template very close to the real thing. With the profile views here you should be able to do something similar for rocker and thickness. Best of luck with rail contours... from what I've seen of Machado's designs, the rails are often fairly close to Brewer rails but I haven't seen that specific model, so....
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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004
All great info from you and Huck. I was rereading your comments on Scaling dimensions recently here on Sways. They really help wrap my brain around what I need to do. I also have a Masonite template for a 20 1/2" Fish that I have used recently. It has a very similar outline and curves. Lowel
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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004
I am going to give it a go as you suggest John. I have heard guys talk about scaling Computer size. Going to reread everything and try to wrap my brain around it one step at a time. Lowel
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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
I added some video to my posts above cuz its easy to pull up in a search, and you can get a real good feel for the board contours, including rails, by watching the videos. Looks like he carries the volume out to the rails pretty far, they taper down, and seems like a down railer the whole way, but not a hard down rail, more of a softer edge, rounder down rail, doesn't even look like a crisp edge in the tail, but def a bit tighter radius toward the fin area. I figure McDing is gonna end up using the rails that work for him, or for his area, so even tho he's gonna use the Moonbeam for inspiration, to a certain extent you want him to add his own secret sauce if he's shaping a board for you, otherwise you could just order a Moonbeam.
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chrisp's picture
Joined: 05/30/2006
That concave/channel thing does not appeal to me at all... Anybody have any info/insight into that?
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stoneburner's picture
Joined: 12/30/2007
Looks like the channel would increase pressure under the tail...
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Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical

RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html

Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009
In the test pilot video Rob talks about it "creating lift".
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stoneburner's picture
Joined: 12/30/2007
The image above was inserted into PowerPoint. Below, it has been divided into 10 equal segments. Measure image width at each interval. Divide each width by image length (width/length), Let us say you want a 70-inch board. Multiply 70 inches by the width/length for each interval. That will be your width for every 7-inch interval. [However, if you want a specific maximum width for a given length, you will have to play with (proportionally adjust) the width/length ratios: http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2016/01/re-sizing-full-size-surfboard-templa... http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2013/10/picture-to-template-to-resize.html ] A framing square, a piece of masonite... Accept. Reject. It does not affect me.
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Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical

RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html

stoneburner's picture
Joined: 12/30/2007
Based on dimensions in the chart Huck posted, and the actual width and length of the image in post #10, the board depicted would be very close to 20" x 74". Width intervals shown would be every 7.4". _____
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Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical

RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html

sk8ment's picture
Joined: 08/22/2013
i have has success with the projectors at work. I insert the pic into word, project on the board whiteboard, measure the dims, on the board. then do a ratio calculation to increase the up and down and then the side to side dims (use percentage increase) in the picture format section in word. then place some cardboard on the white board with tape and trace away. doesnt account for the change in shape due to the curve of rocker but it gives a good idea.
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@reclaim_surf formerly Skatement

(Adam) Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia

McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004
You guys are fantastic at this stuff. Thanks so much. If I can pull this off; I'll be in the "Shape Off" at Del Mar in 2019. (LOL). If I don't drop dead from exhaustion first. I will keep you posted on this and update my progress from time to time. Got a lot on my plate. Lowel
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unclegrumpy's picture
Joined: 09/16/2006

McDing wrote:

You guys are fantastic at this stuff. Thanks so much. If I can pull this off; I'll be in the "Shape Off" at Del Mar in 2019. (LOL). If I don't drop dead from exhaustion first. I will keep you posted on this and update my progress from time to time. Got a lot on my plate. Lowel

Go get 'em Lowel !  

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No; It's not an ironing board.

McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

Alrighty then.  Here are a few pics of the not quite completed shape

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

The blank is my favorite EPS Foam.  Marko.  A 6’8” Fish type blank that I will have to look up the name and number of later.

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

I found that semi-circle tail to be more difficult to get right than the concave.  Every time I took a second critical look at it I wanted to adjust it.  Difficult to get the aesthetics right to the eye.

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

Spackled the bottom.  Finding good spackle has become a bit of a problem.  My “go to” Ace Hardware Liteweight Spackle has been reformulated with an Optical Brightner, So now it’s too blue.  Found some nice creamy stuff at the Sherwin/Williams Paint store.

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sharkcountry's picture
Joined: 03/25/2006

I just tried the Sherwin/Williams spackle the other day. I really like it. Used it right out of the container without thinning. Way better than the last batch of DAP Fast N Final I had. I bought a larger container of DAP and it took a while to use it. I should have dumped it and switched when people started commenting on the difference. The Sherwin/Williams stuff seems like the old DAP mix.

For scaling shapes of boards I wanted to copy, I would use Adobe Illustrator and draw a board's outline curve from an image (only one side). Once the outline was created, I would open the Illustrator file in Photoshop with whatever length and width I wanted. Then I would cut the full size image into pieces I could print on 11 x 17 paper. Each page has guide lines to reassemble an accurate full scale template. Then I'd print, cut, and tape them together and transfer that to masonite or poster board for a stiffer template. I think this is how Blending Curves makes their templates.

I also drew up my own designs this way. Once you have something full scale, you can move the wide point around and tweak the nose or tail curve with photoshop. You need a decent computer because the files get pretty big.

You can open an image in Photoshop and just scale it to whatever length and width you want, but the pixellation gets bad. But, if you just use that as a guide and have nice flexible battons, you can make a nice clean line along the pixelated edge. You still need to print it out to full scale.

I don't have Illustrator now that Adobe switched to the annual licence. My old computer with Windows XP had it, but I use a Mac now.

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thrailkill's picture
Joined: 05/07/2004

sharkcountry wrote:
I don't have Illustrator now that Adobe switched to the annual licence. My old computer with Windows XP had it, but I use a Mac now.
    I still use the same eyes hands and tools, to make a template, that I've always used.      Different pencils though.      Just sayin'.     I'm an impatient guy.     I get results faster, the old fashioned way.

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Bill Thrailkill SHAPER SINCE 1958
McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

Yeah one of the Shapers I sell to up here had been in our local ACE and bought a quart.  It was blue.  I’ve got a partial qt. That I’ve had for a year that is white.   I bought Fastt n Final last year and I noticed that it didn’t sand well.  It balled up into a grit that scratched the blank.  A sure sign that it had been fortified with Acrylic.  A common trend these days amongst paint manufacturers. Whatever you buy; it’s a good idea to pop the lid and take a look before you buy.

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sharkcountry's picture
Joined: 03/25/2006

Hi Bill, back in 2005 when Bernie and I started making our boards again, I didn't think about nose or tail widths. I just worked with a length and width, then decided if I wanted a rounder nose or more pointed nose and what kind of tail I wanted. The first 4 were eggs based on the Hobie retro egg that was being made then. I've learned quite a bit about design since then thanks to Swaylocks and the people willing to share.

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

Concave—-

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

Progress thus far;   

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

White Opaque, 227 Vector Net, Fusions post lam.  The plan is to 4 oz. clear top and bottom with logos.

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Huck's picture
Joined: 12/07/2009

Looks good! Client must be frothing :-)

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McDing's picture
Joined: 05/22/2004

He is!  You know the hardest part was the “Moon” tail.   I had no measurements to go by, only a pic.  Guesstimated the width and depth based on the fin placement.  My starting point was the center fin.  I figured it to be three inches forward.  From there the fin placement was fairly simple based on the pics.  The depth of the tail is two inches.  In some pics it definitely looks like it is right.  In others it looked shallower.  I probably got the tail an inch or so wider than the original and if you look at the drawing and pics carefully you will see the original is pulled in slightly, creating a “hip” in the last six to eight inches of the tail.  Nose on the original is a little less “full” than my interpretation and slightly more pointy.  The concave positioning was arrived at based on the fin placement and a guesstimate of how far off the rail it was,  where it began and the little zig and zag around the two back rail fins.    My best attempt based on pics and minimal reference points.  Lowel

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