You are doing a commendable job on your hollow board build. I personally don't think I could get it to the glassing stage. Can't wait to see the finished product. Only mean any of my suggestions as constructive criticism, on a very technical build. in my opinion that I could not personally pull off.
Good advice from Huck on the sealer coat and block sanding. "Elmers" Wood Putty will also work on the knots. Will show due to it's lighter color, but applies easily and can be sanded flush.
First up thanks for all the constructive comments.
BB30 - when you say I need to sand further, is this for aesthetic or strength purposes? The photo has particularly badly picked up the sanded resin on the board, it feels smooth to the touch. Are you sanding the entire rail and bottom area to key the surface for the deck lamination to grip to?
The board is never going to look like the one you have posted in your picture, my initial starting construction method was flawed and has resulted in a lot of error built in to the shape of the board. I'd never construct a board using this method again, I didn't really have an understanding of working with wood when I begun this and thought I'd be able to do certain things in shaping which were not realistic. This is fine, it's been a learning curve and for the next one I'd use a much different method, all I'm saying is that I'm never going to get a nice smooth rail edge like yours because of the way the various types of wood meet near the rail!
I have cheater coated the whole board before I did the lower lamination so I was concerned about excessively sanding and going into the wood when I was sanding the freelap. Is this something to be concerned about?
I see depth, in this, If you throw your deck lam over this you may or may not get complete adhesion to the wood at Botton of pit. The whole point was with a wood free lap, fiberglass can be totally feathered to the wood, Adding a mare resin could fix it but you double your sanding in those areas. Everything can be fixed, but having tight and booger free laps makes less work to fix. Shiny means not hit by the sand paper BTW
OK - deck knot hole repairs complete, thanks for the tip Huck. I'm not too displeased with how they have come out in the end!
I want to do a second cheater coat on the top deck as I've sanded it so much and since putting the cork repairs in I think they could do with a cheater coat to stop them drinking in the resin when I glass over them. Is this a wise plan? Should I just cheater coat over the small patches with the cork or what? I just feel like it's probably a pretty absorbent wood to glass.
for your consideration, The seams in your wood planks could be problematic with that wide of a gap present. When glassing they will possible be a source for air pockets. I fill seam gaps with resin and milled fiberglass to tooth paste thickness and squeegee in, let dry and sand off. Taping off on each side of gap, applying resin/milled fiber filler, remove tape and let dry will make everything neat and very little sanding to get flush to deck. the knot repairs look nice.
You're welcome for the tip only that really wasn't my tip, I fill holes like that with wood, I just taper the edges so that like a cork it gets tighter as you push it in. Before glassing I seal with multiple sealer coats of resin (to me a cheater coat is something completely different) over the whole board, block sanding between each coat, until there are no gaps, and no bumps or high spots. That's just me you can do it however you want.
"It still will happen, from time to time, this magic moment, when you're out with only a few friends..." - G. Rainfray