Thank you for your good tips jrandy i really appreciate it. Yes i work with an epoxy resin and i think its also an eps core. I have found the additive for epoxy. I will order it next time with the missed pigments. @McDing yes you are right the board looks like its machine finished, because the hotcoat is very thin. My next question is what i have to use when polishing the hotcoat?
I want to have it shiny again. The 600 grid with water cant do that.
I use a sanding polish from a panelbeater store with a wool pad. It takes out fine scratches and brings epoxy up to a shine (not quite a gloss, though)
Thank you red_boards i will try to get the final shine with a polishing maschine. I have started the second finbox of the other board. It was a good idea to cover the bottom of the jig with cork because now it dosent move any more.
Please take a look at the rails, they are painted in silver over the hotcoat. What kind of color i have to use for something like this?
The resin is not completly dry after 2 days. Try to add some heat but it dosent work.
How could that be?
Could i have added to much microbaloons?
Can i use a acrylic paint on the epoxy resin?
I think with a hotcoat over it works well.
I routed it out new, because it wont get completly dry. Fingernails leave a mark even after 4 days. I think the mixing of the resin was not accurate enough.
I have made a fin template to tape it down better than with a normal fin after instaling the new box.
The last time the box came up a little bit during the drying process. When pressing it down the resin comes up again. I hope i can avoid this now with some tape over the template to hold it down.
More tips are very appreciated.
I got a new problem. I build a angle measurement tool and find out that the old finbox is not in 5° like the fusionbox I want to replace.
The finbox on the other side has a angle of 7°. I know that there will be no fcs solution for this.
Is it possible to tilt the box 2° to match the old fin? What would you suggest?
I added 'fusion' to the title so people know what type of box you are using.
As far as the resin not getting hard, that is usually a ratio or mixing issue. Epoxy needs the correct amount of each part mixed together well to react fully.
I prefer a small scale (by weight) or syringes (by volume) for small batches. For example RR Kwik Kick is 100 parts resin to 45 parts hardener by weight OR 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume. One cannot mix units weight and volume, they need to match for each side. Also remember to zero (tare) the container when weighing.
Be safe, have fun. -J
To add one more degree turned out to be ok. Now i am working with a better scale and the epoxy gets hard the right way. My problem was a ratio issue.
Is it absolutely necessary to add one or two layers of glas over the box or is it enough to fix the paint with a thin layer of resin?
On the bottom side of your jig, adhere some sandpaper, to keep it from sliding. Also consider a clamp or two, that is distributing the pressure across the domed deck on a flexible piece of wood.
I resisted getting a digital scale for weighing epoxy, for so long. I was a fool.
Also of great importance when mixing batches of epoxy, ,is a complete mixing of the epoxy.
Have a Level table, and a clean mixing cup.
Have a mixing sticck that is perfectly flat on 4 sides, ,and the bottom 5th side fits the bottom of the mixing cup.
Scrape the mixing stick on the same side of the cup often, and then work that side of the cup into the rest of the resin.
It is hard to have too much light for this, and even if you do not yet need to wear reading glasses, for reading, a strong LED headlamp on your head and some 2.0 reding glasses will allow you sto see swirlies in the epoxy that the naked eye never could see, these swirlees indicating that the epoxy is NOT mixed thoroughly.
As you have founbd out ther is nothing worse than the extra effor required after improperly ratioed or mixed epoxy must be removed. it is so Much easier to prevent this from ever occurring by weighing the epoxy rather than trying to pour it by volume, and proper and thorough mixing with the aid of a LOT of light, and reading glasses for magnification, even if you do not require reading glasses......
Weighing epoxy, knowng its ratio is mixed within precisely 0.01 of a gram, and that it is mixed thoroughly= confidence,
and that is priceless.
And pays for itself in router bits and curses, dust and fumes, many times over.
Digital scales are cheap. Minewas 14$ and measures 0.01 of a gram upto 300 grams.
I've spent so much mroe than that on small mixing cups over the years, and wasted so much epoxy when I could not use 15 or 30ML, the only two volumes I really mixed with confidence and good results.
With a digital scale..... well less than an hour ago, I mixed 4.65 grams of Apex epoxy resin with 2.09g of Apex hardener, 100:45, and mixed them thoroughly, and there is simply no Doubt it will cure to its full strength.
Mixing by volume requires precision mixing cups and procedures, and plenty of hope and doubt too.
Get a scale.