Also; I never really worked out percentages, but maybe some of you can. On really rich opaques I have been told that I should use 20—40 cc’s of MEK per quart to quart and a half of resin. I recently did a pigment rich opaque and had issues with set time. I was able force it to set by hotcoating it. So this tells me that I had enough pigment in the resin to have an effect on it.
...those MEKP quantities are too much and so hot of a lamination. Brittle (bland in the case of lamination) a lot the glass work and you are playing at the very edge with the gelling time.
Bear in mind that there s 2 types of peroxide; one is STD the other is industrial (grade). May be you had bad luck and a shop gives you the STD (many shops do not know)
--Regarding finishing the process with the aid of the hot coat: in the surface all seems ok, but the glass underside remains gummy forever.
Aw bull shit. If what you say were true I would never have been able to sand the board. Which I did with no problem. Anyone with a lick of sense would have asked me if I had trouble sanding the board; before they put their foot in there mouth with such an absurd comment. MEK?? I’m a distributor.
This is where the metric system would be so much easier..
1000ml (1 liter, 1.06 US QT) would take 10ml for 1%, 20ml for 2%...
so 20ml/cc to a US quart is a slightly strong 2% so 30ml would be 3% and 40ml would be 4%
Are people going 1% on lams and 2% for hotcoats and gloss with Silmar 249 and Reichold and the like?
I would never sit and figure this...LOL so OK maybe i would...but I would also get a catalyst chart from one of the surfboard or boatbuilding supply places if I was using PE resin.
Be safe, have fun. -J
Yes and that sounds correct to me. I am usually 10 or 15 cc on a quart or quart and a half of Silmar. Always at least 15 cc on the hot coat. Just what I was taught and told by a couple of Pros in glass shops in Calif. and the Islands. I’m not as good on a lam as I was at one time, but still can get it done before it kicks. Hotcoats are no problem for me as I was an experienced brush-man with varnish, long before I ever did a surfboard .
...Mcding, re read again; yes, you can sand the glass, but underneath reminds gummy (bland) "forever". If you are so empiric as you say, go and make couple of tests and you will see what I am talking about.
I am not a backyarder.
I did a test when I sanded it. Even hit the weave. Was not tacky/gummy etc. Made dust, wasn’t gummie bear. And not the first time I’ve forced a lam to set. You may have misunderstood. I wasn’t sanding “gloss” as you say. Just a normal hotcoat over lam. If as you say there is no Surf Manufacture/Industry down there in Bolivia, Columbia or wherever you are from; How did you acquire your vast unfanthomable knowledge?? Taught by “Yoda” himself I assume?
What does “empiric” mean and how are you applying it in this context??
Skil 100 Database HERE
...no doubt why the Aussie guys just leave here; I understand why some members does not waste time responding to you.
My knowledge is because I really make boards; not pretending or "upgrading" from doing repairs.
Also, could be good to get out of the cocoon (as one of the Aussies told when Clark s foam shut down) and see that most of the boards and wetsuits are made outside US.
The world is big outside your little Oregon place.