One of the conclusions from that thread was that people may need to adapt a design to their intent versus one type to fit all.
I think the main thing would be for the modded versions to reference the source file like V3_flanged or V4_smooth or V4_slotted so there is a family tree of sorts.
For example, for me with EPS, resin drainage and resin exotherm are concerns. So the extra 2mm flanges and annular ring filled with resin seem like a liability.
So I would take those off of mine and rout everthing close to nominal so that there is a tighish fit. I would paint resin onto each surface and then assemble.
If I were doing PU or a hollow wooden board (HWB) the 2mm (5/64") per side gap might seem a hair big, I'd probably go 1 to 1.5mm (strong 1/32" to just under 1/16") per side.
Being conservative with the resin and then doing the touch-ups with a syringe sounds neater than filling the cavity too much and having to mop up the excess.
I am enjoying the discussions, thanks for everyone's input.
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http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Thanks to everyone for their input. I have learnt a lot about people's preferred fitment methodologies and printing capabilities.
I know I'm not going to be able to please everyone, so I'm going to have to choose what I think to be the best "average".
I will make a simple box shape and (almost) enclose those outer volumes completely - will need to have a hole in each separate volume on its bottom face to allow unfused particulate matter (SLS printing process requirement) to be removed. Hopefully these small holes will limit resin intrusion into these volumes if the boxes printed on domestic 3D printers aren't airtight enough to trap air in these volumes. SLS printed boxes will not have any resin intrusion issues into these volumes. Resin should be able to be poured into the routed cavity and then the fin box pushed in and/or poured in after the fin box is dropped in.
I will add a rib (to be sanded off after fitment) around the outer edge of the top surface to help prevent resin flowing onto this surface and into the fins slot and screw holes. This rib will be slightly offset (inboard) from the outer edge in order to allow the box fitment depth to be checked against the surrounding board surface before fitment.
Thanks Brett. But really I'm only giving back what I should in return for the knowledge and great advice I've received from Swaylocks and the generous people here.
In the end I decided to place the top surface rib around the fin slot instead. I figured if I put it around the edge of the top surface it would be difficult to get resin out of the area if it happened to spill over. So tape will need to be applied over the screw holes in case of resin overflow and the fin box edge should be mounted 0.5-1.0mm overflush to the surrounding board surface and then everything sanded back flush afterwards.
One could also print the top entry to the screw holes closed, if 0.5mm gets sanded off that means at least 2 layers, which will prevent resin from entering in a little spill.
Thanks MrMik. On the original side box design many moons ago I had the screw holes covered to do just that but was asked to remove the covers as it was expressed that some people use a fitted fin to set alignment/angle when setting the box. I was told it was no trouble to cover them with pieces of tape to prevent resin entry.
I like to use a fin fitted in the box to get the angles right and using tape does away with more sanding.
I think this idea could be a boon for spongers, there’s a lot of smaller, trailer type fins that would improve the hold and drive of boogie boards. There’s a few bespoke fin companies but no thriving fin market for spongers so this would be a product to sell with no competition.
Link to the FCS2 printable thread: https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/fcs2-compatible-3d-printable-plugs
One of the conclusions from that thread was that people may need to adapt a design to their intent versus one type to fit all.
I think the main thing would be for the modded versions to reference the source file like V3_flanged or V4_smooth or V4_slotted so there is a family tree of sorts.
For example, for me with EPS, resin drainage and resin exotherm are concerns. So the extra 2mm flanges and annular ring filled with resin seem like a liability.
So I would take those off of mine and rout everthing close to nominal so that there is a tighish fit. I would paint resin onto each surface and then assemble.
If I were doing PU or a hollow wooden board (HWB) the 2mm (5/64") per side gap might seem a hair big, I'd probably go 1 to 1.5mm (strong 1/32" to just under 1/16") per side.
Being conservative with the resin and then doing the touch-ups with a syringe sounds neater than filling the cavity too much and having to mop up the excess.
I am enjoying the discussions, thanks for everyone's input.
http://pushheretosavealife.com/ Be safe, have fun. -J
Thanks to everyone for their input. I have learnt a lot about people's preferred fitment methodologies and printing capabilities.
I know I'm not going to be able to please everyone, so I'm going to have to choose what I think to be the best "average".
I will make a simple box shape and (almost) enclose those outer volumes completely - will need to have a hole in each separate volume on its bottom face to allow unfused particulate matter (SLS printing process requirement) to be removed. Hopefully these small holes will limit resin intrusion into these volumes if the boxes printed on domestic 3D printers aren't airtight enough to trap air in these volumes. SLS printed boxes will not have any resin intrusion issues into these volumes. Resin should be able to be poured into the routed cavity and then the fin box pushed in and/or poured in after the fin box is dropped in.
I will add a rib (to be sanded off after fitment) around the outer edge of the top surface to help prevent resin flowing onto this surface and into the fins slot and screw holes. This rib will be slightly offset (inboard) from the outer edge in order to allow the box fitment depth to be checked against the surrounding board surface before fitment.
Now to find the time to get it done.
Rohan, You’re a good man to do all this work for free so other Swaylockers can try something new. I’m sure it’s most appreciated by all.
Thanks Brett. But really I'm only giving back what I should in return for the knowledge and great advice I've received from Swaylocks and the generous people here.
Thanks for all the effort you put in! Unfortunately I'm still too busy to contribute much at the moment, I'm not even designing or making fins.
Regarding the hole in the bottom, that is an easy fix in OpenScad to close the hole if desired
In the end I decided to place the top surface rib around the fin slot instead. I figured if I put it around the edge of the top surface it would be difficult to get resin out of the area if it happened to spill over. So tape will need to be applied over the screw holes in case of resin overflow and the fin box edge should be mounted 0.5-1.0mm overflush to the surrounding board surface and then everything sanded back flush afterwards.
SFB1.jpg
SFB2.jpg
SFB3.jpg
Looks good!
One could also print the top entry to the screw holes closed, if 0.5mm gets sanded off that means at least 2 layers, which will prevent resin from entering in a little spill.
Thanks MrMik. On the original side box design many moons ago I had the screw holes covered to do just that but was asked to remove the covers as it was expressed that some people use a fitted fin to set alignment/angle when setting the box. I was told it was no trouble to cover them with pieces of tape to prevent resin entry.
I like to use a fin fitted in the box to get the angles right and using tape does away with more sanding.
I think this idea could be a boon for spongers, there’s a lot of smaller, trailer type fins that would improve the hold and drive of boogie boards. There’s a few bespoke fin companies but no thriving fin market for spongers so this would be a product to sell with no competition.
Little by little we are inching closer to a final design and release for all those who are still interested.
BOXES.jpg
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