The solution here might be a version for pre-lam with no hangers, tick marks on the side, and no extra sanding required before glassing and a version for post-lam that has the hangers and some extra material that can be ground to match the existing surface.
Be safe, have fun. -J
Jrandy, I like the idea of the 2 versions, that’s a great idea.
My OCD won’t let me deal with a ‘range’ of install depths. Inside my head it has to be exact so every fin sits at the perfect height with the base neither above nor below the glass.
Is that just me, or do others obsess constantly over minute details that make no difference ?
What are you guys paying per box to have these made?
About $100 for a set of 3.
I haven't paid for any yet but have been told material for a set would be about $20 and the test set took 12 hours To print !
I fear that not all types of 3D printers will have the “definition” required to produce clear upper, lower and ideal depth limit markings, and they could turn out to be more confusing than helpful.
Adding hangers to produce a precise depth setting for post lamination fitment, for those using 3D printers capable of printing them, I think would be the best solution. I can easily make another version of each fin box with hangers added.
Thanks Rohan. I prefer to do post Glass installs because it allows me to do the glassing as a perfect unit and the boxes as a seperate unit. Also because the hangers mean anyone can install these boxes on any existing board, which is a great function to test the system.
A few of the 3-D printing companies here are going bust so it’s hard to find a solid manufacturer or I’d think about getting a lot done to hand out.