Still doing a roadtrip so still thinking about the shape for the next board and I'm a little bit confused.
As I said before, I'm 175 cm for 65 kg (143pounds).
I have the idea of retro single fin with a diamond tail. Wide point foreward from the center.
It will be a board for my home in France (south west Les Landes close to Hossegor. Living in Capbreton exactly and surfing in the area mostly).
For the conditions, it will be waist-shoulder to overhead. Mostly hollow and steep but can be a long wall in some spots.
Trim oriented, big carves but nothing sharp, aggressiv. I'm a relax guy so something relax but capble to hold, great paddling and maybe easy, early entry...long turns. So nothing too short but nothing too long. And of course the possibility to be forward on the board or behind and to move (Morning of the earth style with lower level for sure!)
I'm pretty slim and not very powerful so I think it can fit for me but I'm thinking about the template...
I'm not so sure anymore for that... Any recommendations for me after this post and the last one? Maybe 6'6 is short? Don't know. If you got ideas.
In morning in the earth, I think it's Barry Kanaiaupuni with this kind of board and amazing style for sure...
After reading your post, it sounds to me like a circa 1971 diamond tail, Lightning Bolt style board, 7'2'' to 7' 6'' would meet your needs. Board width, 20.5'' to 21 inches.
After reading your post, it sounds to me like a circa 1971 diamond tail, Lightning Bolt style board, 7'2'' to 7' 6'' would meet your needs. Board width, 20.5'' to 21 inches.
Thanks for the advice. I will think about that! Seems to be so long But why not...
At your body weight, 7' 2'' may be the better call. You'd still have plenty of paddle power, and be able to turn on a dime. Also recommend a thick foiled fin.
At your body weight, 7' 2'' may be the better call. You'd still have plenty of paddle power, and be able to turn on a dime. Also recommend a thick foiled fin.
Thanks again! Yes I was thinking the same because if turns are not doable it will be a pity!
Why a thick foiled? Because of the board? Which size for this kind of length? I know the rule of one thumb per foot but maybe something more accurate. For the moment I only got 7.5 fins using on my 6'8 and my 6'1.
A thick foiled fin has superior hydrodynamic performance. I've used a 7.5 inch fin, on a 7' 10'' board, with no issues, on waves up to 15 feet at Sunset. You'll be well served, with a 7.5 inch fin.
A thick foiled fin has superior hydrodynamic performance. I've used a 7.5 inch fin, on a 7' 10'' board, with no issues, on waves up to 15 feet at Sunset. You'll be well served, with a 7.5 inch fin.
Ok thanks! Was asking because some guys were using 8 or 9" fins on singles of this length but was surprised.
Do you have any thoughts about the thickness? I will try to do a template to visualise an outline.
The width you were talking about surprised me a little bit! Maybe I'll stick to 20 1/2.
A thick foiled fin has superior hydrodynamic performance. I've used a 7.5 inch fin, on a 7' 10'' board, with no issues, on waves up to 15 feet at Sunset. You'll be well served, with a 7.5 inch fin.
Maybe I'll stick to 20 1/2.
A 20 1/2 inch width will work just fine. As to fin thickness, I like a 3/4th inch thichness on a 5 inch base, tapering to about 1/4yh inch thickness, at the tip. Use the Swaylock's SEARCH FEATURE for ''thick foiled fins'' and you'll get plenty of food for thought.
One problem a lot of people get caught doing is watching a video of someone surfing or seeing photos of surfers riding a certain board and thinking that the board is what makes the surfer look so good. It is the opposite, the surfer makes the board look like a good board. Most average surfers will buy a board tinking it will be great and find out it isn't. A good surfer can work around the idiosyncracies of a mediocre board and make it look better than it really is.
You need to understand the way you surf and match the board to that and to where you will be surfing. I started surfing just as boards were going down from 9-6 logs, so I understand how single fins work. Other than the "cool retro" factor or personal choice, there's no advantage to having just one fin. I often ask my friends who are older (65+) and ride modern longboards if they prefer the thruster setup to the single, and most usually say thruster. I prefer single for longer boards.
I'm really enjoying a 6-8 that has a long center box and side bites. I ride it with a wider single fin, but when the surf is up, I switch it to a thruster using the FCS center fin adapter. I added slots in the FCS center fin tabs where the screws are to hold the fin in really good. I can also use it with a large single fin and small sidebites. With the long single box and side bites you can have a wider tail. Maurice Cole's Shiva seems to be the all in one setup worth thinking about.
I know very much what you said and I know that even if one day we can say "THIS is the best board ever", I will not surf better for sure because of the board.
It's more because of my feeling for the moment. If I'm talking about that movie it's because for me it's maybe the better exemple of what is surfing and what I'm trying to achieve maybe. I can dream hahahaha. I'm not a perf surfer, explosive and everything. The long carves looks beautiful for me and just a good line, feeling on the wave.
It's funny because I was on a roadtrip for 2 months and I surf pretty all day my short single. I tried once again a thruster and the
Hello everybody...
Still doing a roadtrip so still thinking about the shape for the next board and I'm a little bit confused.
As I said before, I'm 175 cm for 65 kg (143pounds).
I have the idea of retro single fin with a diamond tail. Wide point foreward from the center.
It will be a board for my home in France (south west Les Landes close to Hossegor. Living in Capbreton exactly and surfing in the area mostly).
For the conditions, it will be waist-shoulder to overhead. Mostly hollow and steep but can be a long wall in some spots.
Trim oriented, big carves but nothing sharp, aggressiv. I'm a relax guy so something relax but capble to hold, great paddling and maybe easy, early entry...long turns. So nothing too short but nothing too long. And of course the possibility to be forward on the board or behind and to move (Morning of the earth style with lower level for sure!)
I'm pretty slim and not very powerful so I think it can fit for me but I'm thinking about the template...
I'm not so sure anymore for that... Any recommendations for me after this post and the last one? Maybe 6'6 is short? Don't know. If you got ideas.
In morning in the earth, I think it's Barry Kanaiaupuni with this kind of board and amazing style for sure...
Thanks everyone!
After reading your post, it sounds to me like a circa 1971 diamond tail, Lightning Bolt style board, 7'2'' to 7' 6'' would meet your needs. Board width, 20.5'' to 21 inches.
Thanks for the advice. I will think about that! Seems to be so long But why not...
At your body weight, 7' 2'' may be the better call. You'd still have plenty of paddle power, and be able to turn on a dime. Also recommend a thick foiled fin.
Thanks again! Yes I was thinking the same because if turns are not doable it will be a pity!
Why a thick foiled? Because of the board? Which size for this kind of length? I know the rule of one thumb per foot but maybe something more accurate. For the moment I only got 7.5 fins using on my 6'8 and my 6'1.
Thanks again ! Really appreciate your help.
A thick foiled fin has superior hydrodynamic performance. I've used a 7.5 inch fin, on a 7' 10'' board, with no issues, on waves up to 15 feet at Sunset. You'll be well served, with a 7.5 inch fin.
Ok thanks! Was asking because some guys were using 8 or 9" fins on singles of this length but was surprised.
Do you have any thoughts about the thickness? I will try to do a template to visualise an outline.
The width you were talking about surprised me a little bit! Maybe I'll stick to 20 1/2.
One problem a lot of people get caught doing is watching a video of someone surfing or seeing photos of surfers riding a certain board and thinking that the board is what makes the surfer look so good. It is the opposite, the surfer makes the board look like a good board. Most average surfers will buy a board tinking it will be great and find out it isn't. A good surfer can work around the idiosyncracies of a mediocre board and make it look better than it really is.
You need to understand the way you surf and match the board to that and to where you will be surfing. I started surfing just as boards were going down from 9-6 logs, so I understand how single fins work. Other than the "cool retro" factor or personal choice, there's no advantage to having just one fin. I often ask my friends who are older (65+) and ride modern longboards if they prefer the thruster setup to the single, and most usually say thruster. I prefer single for longer boards.
I'm really enjoying a 6-8 that has a long center box and side bites. I ride it with a wider single fin, but when the surf is up, I switch it to a thruster using the FCS center fin adapter. I added slots in the FCS center fin tabs where the screws are to hold the fin in really good. I can also use it with a large single fin and small sidebites. With the long single box and side bites you can have a wider tail. Maurice Cole's Shiva seems to be the all in one setup worth thinking about.
Thanks Shark.
Maybe my message is a little bit misunderstood.
I know very much what you said and I know that even if one day we can say "THIS is the best board ever", I will not surf better for sure because of the board.
It's more because of my feeling for the moment. If I'm talking about that movie it's because for me it's maybe the better exemple of what is surfing and what I'm trying to achieve maybe. I can dream hahahaha. I'm not a perf surfer, explosive and everything. The long carves looks beautiful for me and just a good line, feeling on the wave.
It's funny because I was on a roadtrip for 2 months and I surf pretty all day my short single. I tried once again a thruster and the
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