Ah, is that similar to this critter ( link below )? I have a similar ( no vaccum, does have plunge and micro-adjust) Porter-Cable 693 and like it - works nice for old fin box removal among other things. Though lately I find myself reaching first for a laminate trimmer (P-C # 7310- http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2832 ) - quite nice, light, one-hand operation and it's surprising what guts it has, swinging some pretty good sized bits. Or plain laminate trimmer stuff, which seems like it might have a number of useful applications in surfboard repair work. The madman-with-a-router whose handiwork I had to deal with, he never heard of adjusting the thing fine. Nope, more like 'Set it as deep as it'll go and have at it'. doc........ http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=5585
I broke the nose off of a longboard which led to a section of glass pulling off all the way to the tail. Needless to say the rest came off pretty easily, except the rails,, it sounds like there always a b#$%h. I had a good experience with this method. I didn't ruin a good blank for my first board and had some good lines to work with. I must say though trying to use the existing fins plugs was nightmare! Between that and the hug chunks pulled off the rail....My board has some nice "hips" and a very straight (if not slightly inverted) rail from the middle of the board to about where the side bites are. The board will surf. I'm confident in that and the experience was priceless. I basically had to pay for a surform, sand paper and some dragon skin. People talk negatively about doing this but just haveing some foam you don't care about to mow is fun.
Scott, If you want to make a wall hanger out of it, thats a diiferent story: Just sand the board down flat just too the weave, don't go after the presure dings, just fix the real dings. Now apply a heavy hot coat,and sand that down flat with a heavy grit so your presure dings come flat. Go to Michaels or some craft store and buy water based acrylic flat paint. Spray the entire board or tape off a design whatever. Now hot coat the board again, pull the tape and polish out. I just posted a couple of boards, a Jacobs and a Dave Sweet that were in way worse shape thae your G&S, check them out. I used resin tints, but paint done right looks exactly like resin tints. anything's possible. -Jay
The best board I've made to date was a salvage job. The main piece of advice it to take it really slow so that you don't pull off chunks of foam as you're stripping the glass. I started by takign a grinder and cutting into the rail.... just a little cut so that I could make a start on pulling the glass off. Use a pliars or some other kinda grip to pull the glass. I also used the grinder to cut some strips into the glass on the deck and bottom. It's alot easier to pull a few small sections of glass rather than 1 large section of glass. Just be really carefull with the grinder not to dig into the foam. Hope it works out for you and remember take it nice and slow.....
That is killer advice, sounds like that is what I am going to try to do. On the paints are they spray paints or paints for airbrish. I think I will try to do that on my old board before the G&S. Thank you again for all the advice. This is a sweet website.
There water based acrylics, Delta, Apple Barrel, Liquitex etc. you can mix them with acrylic thinner, Future floor wax, or Water......water sucks because if you thin it more than about 15% the paint will do all sorts of weird s$%t. And yes it goes into a sprayer, I use a 1/4 hp Badger compressor with a double action gravity feed cup...But you can go to Harbor Freight and buy a small hobby compressor and a single action sprayer for about $50, It will work fine, its all in the thinning and straining of the paint. you'll end up using it for all sorts of stuff. Now get to work. -Jay
Doc, yeah pretty close; I have the DW621 actually. Capable of VERY fine cuts; I saw it take off a sticker without marring the table surface....
Future floor wax, ah the trix of the trade. ur the man thank you. I think by next week I can get up and get started.