Thanks guys! Really helpful info. I have 6 and 4 oz. warp glass and will probably easy the edge just a hair to help it out and sharpen it up with hotcoating. Will also do a quick test piece with a cutoff.
I personally think Warp is the easiest to wrap. Just my personal opinion. I prefer BGF Aerialite. JPS has a reputation of being easy to work with. I haven't used it in so long, that I couldn't say. I find Hexcel to be stringy and doesn't saturate as easy. On the hard edges it always seemed to leave a series of very small bubbles in the tail area of the rail. To prevent this I took up the "finger" technique, which I have seen used many times by pros.
Good to hear McDing. I've seen that techinque used in some of the videos I've watched. If it gives me any trouble I'll make sure and give it the finger! ;)
since i use mostly 9oz biaxial stitch glass i have to round shape my edge for laminate and rebuild it with resin after... Aerialite is easy and fast to soak with resin,probably thanks to specific sizing, but i found that it show more "white wave" when boards dinged.
I tried masking tape (3M the blue one) and it worked!
Saturate the glass with resin, and lay it around the rails, until the surface below is wetted too, or wet the surface separately.
Let it rest until the resin starts kicking (Its about the time, the guys above used the thumb press or finger press method...)
If it kicked, but it is still tacky, use masking tape and tape the glass around the rail using the necessary pressure, to get no bubbles; mask directly on the tacky glass, no need for shrink wrap of similar separators.
Wait until completely hardened. You then can remove the masking tape, sometimes it needs to scratched off with a scraper or a chisel, but finally it worked without major problems.