Sand the lap from the deck that wrapped to bottom andI san the whole board with 100 or 120 grit sand paper to feather everything seamlessly, Fix the sharp coners that may ahave not gotten a proper fiberglass lamination with a fiberglass patch and sand. At this point The board should be water tight, A dull finish, dusty and I then wash with soap and water and search for any imperfections. The adequate FILLER COAT mad all this possible. Hand sanding is possible or random orbital sanding for beginners and orbital sanding for more experienced.
FINAL COAT. Epoxy is nice because you use the same product through the whole process. Geen Room Blancho with Green Room west coarst fast hardener is what I will be using for the FINAL COAT. Surfboard building lingo can be confusing so with EPOXY builds its LAMINATING COAT.....FILLER COAT........FINAL COAT
I place board on a rack in a comfortable position to brush on your final coat. Prepare disposable paintbrush as described prior. I washed board with soap and water prior and it is been dried off with a clean rag, With clean, washed hands I wipe board off with hands . If it feels clean and smooth it's good to go.. Tape off rails wilth tapeand let hang off do no drips get on bottom of board. I roll up small balls of tape and place behind taped rails to keep tape from wrapping over.
Paur a line of resin douln the middle length of board. Then start in center and stroke rail to rail to nose the to tail. When the deck is totally covered I go length wise starting in cent and working toward the rails on each side. Full brush strokes from end to end without stopping, Look for brush hairs in final coat. check every so few minutes adding resin by toe drop for any dry spost that pop up . walk away, Pull tape in 45 minutes.
Last post. FINAL SANDING URETHANE SPRAY. at this point you could sand only, sand wtih polish finish. what I do works for me, looks great on any type board, Has UV protection which is not necessary with the quality resin used on this build.
Shinny board with a few pimples hear and there but overall an A grade. This was a highschool project board built by a 17yo as their first build start to finish. Sanding started at 180g. Lower grits might be needed if final coat was not this nice. So 180 grit, soap and water wash off, spray with WATER Soluble clear gloss or semigloss, Three coats each side. can flip board in my hoat houseafter on hour and do the other side. I let bake in hothouse for a day before sanding. Start and finishwith 1000g foam pad, beware after you do one side and flip board will fly off rask because it is so slippery smooth.
BB30 - nice photo essay / tutorial!
Thanks for your reactions and sorry for my late answer. I'm very gratefull for all of your attempts to help me. However, the sight of the board depresses me... It's not my habbit of giving up but I fear that everything I'll do, will only make it worse. Since this board creation is a 1 time thing, I 've decided to throw in the towel and ask the help of a professional. I'll let you know how it turns out. Very impressed by the skills you guys master, didn't think it would be this hard...
As mentioned, epoxy can be tough to work with. I just finished a couple of more epoxy boards myself and the stuff has a lot of rules that need following, the patience of a saint, and some good luck sprinkled in. Honestly, from this home builder's perspective, I only stay with it because it's less toxic. I may (big maybe) keep using epoxy for that reason, but it's really tempting to switch back to poly for so many others.
One place I've sworn to completely stop using epoxy, is trying to do any final coats of any sort. There's just not enough sandpaper in the world to keep using epoxy for that phase :)
Consider not giving up on the board yourself yet. You'll get it - just sounds like you need to walk away from it for a while and then come back when you're ready again.