Thank you very much for the feedback reverb! Just to clarify; I laminated all of the dings in this project. But I must say that it's tempting to ligthly sand an brush a little resin along the rail on my 5 year old PU board if it starts to get spiderwebs etc. all along the rails (im not sure what the translation is for these cracks in the glass that can occur over time).
I didn't quite catch this test: "You always sand to the first lamination layer then use styrene monomere to check if you need to sand more." Do you mean the initial sanding before filling and laminating the ding? And do you mean to the outermost layer? Will the styrene monomere hide the fibers if I haven't sanded enough?
The dings I have been working on so far in my repair-career haven't been so deep, so I thought q-cell would suffice. The alternative is to route and fill with original foam? In this case I would have to order some foam from overseas, or use packaging foam?
My goal at this stage is to make the dings waterproof and structural correct, and to improve my skills in the delicate craft of sanding. My sanding feels a bit all over the place.
Regards from Eirik
Hi; yes; I mean the initial sanding. The styrene is to check if everything is correct. It shows what surface should need to go and what can stay there. Dry and with the dust you cannot see clearly all those details.
The spyder webs are not on the surface but under so you do not need to do anything. Some, at a point can crack or hairlines the surface and in that case you sand as I mentioned: to the first layer (the layer to the core-the foam-) then styrene; then check then sand double the area of the ding then you are ready to proceed with the lamination or the filler in any case.
If you do not sand deeper as you say, you cannot obtain an smooth surface due to you need to add all the layers that the glass work have and try to mimic the finish surface.
Remember, if you use a filler you need to put at least 1 sheet of fiber on top then the hot coat; then sand, then the finish coat.
The process is always the same no matter if is a board or a ding repair or a pool or a boat etc You get rid of the problematic and damaged fibers etc then laminate (or fill then laminate) then the hot coat (a filler coat) then a finish coat (polished or buffed) or sprayed.
Thank you again reverb:-) I'll see if I can order some styrene monomer the next time I run out of resins and materials.
Here is a photo of the dings near the nose. Please don't laugh about the nosejob I did for my friend at least 8 years ago, with brown microballons, white pigments, non-surfboard-cloth and horrible sanding/coating. My next step now is to find a good place to do the sanding (it's less than 10 degrees celcuis outside, and heavy rain). Then clean everything with acetone. I'm considering coating all the area above the tape since there is some exposed fibers from my previous mistakes.
Eight years? Must be a "magic" board. I would have shaped a new one by now.
Yeah this board has definitely seen better days. But at least it's a cheap way for my friend to get into surfing again, and good ding-repair practice for me. He has stored it for a long time. :-)
Just remember that sloppy work makes for more work and more sanding. I think back to when my father taught me to tape drywall. The goal of a good taper is to do such a good job that hardly any sanding is needed. I try to keep that in mind when doing ding repairs. Here is another good tip. Get a couple of yards of 2 oz cloth for ding repairs. Works fantastic and blends easily.
Also if you can source some plastic similar to what you find in a sun cure ding repair kit that stuff is golden for dings on the flats. On a puncture type ding using a piece of this plastic I can complete a repair with almost no final sanding. Print shops that do laminating throw this plastic out regularly.
Thank you again mako224. I will be on the lookout for some lighter cloth. I have som packaging plastic from work I can use, I have already tried it with som fiberfilled solarez on a minor ding on another board. But it didn't strike my mind that I could use sheets on top of laminating.
Funny you mentioned dry-wall taping, great analogy! We just hired a professional painter to help out with som drywalls at home, and I asked him if I should cover the door-opening etc. with some plastic, but he said exactly the same as you; "it's gonna be very little sanding needed". And if I remeber correctly they also lay the 3 layers of compound on top of the tape bigger and bigger to blend better.
The drywall analogy is a good one and is sooo true. Why make work for yourself? 4 oz is the best for ding repair because it disappears and can be multilayered if needed. 4oz is all you need to keep around . Don't use the Bondo shit resin from "Home Depot". Get yourself a quart or pint of real surfboard resin(Silmar 249) from one of the mail order suppliers like FoamEZ or Greenlight. Also a container of Q-cell for filler. Putting a filler in a ding or brushing Solrez over a ding is not an effective watertight repair.
Try a larger piece of 2 oz over 4 oz. I find it helps the transition. So many uses for 2 oz. I always keep it around.