By the way, I can also ride a 9' single fin longboard in those conditions (just takes a different approach) and it's pretty enjoyable for a 35 year old like me... It all depends on the mood I am in... A bodyboard is still the most efficient vehicle in the tube in my very own personal opinion but what do I know, I just enjoy getting barreled...
Just the taught of needing a 5 mil wet suit is giving me an ice cream headache
According to Mikki Dora Malibu went to the Dogs in 1964. The Chumash Indians will tell you it was 1664.
artz wrote: Just the taught of needing a 5 mil wet suit is giving me an ice cream headache
mako... got any board pics?
Consider tail factors closely. A good paddler that can't get into fast waves might have more to do with the tail than anything else.
Hi my name is artz and I'm a wuss.
Before we get into degrees of wussieness and How thick my wet-suit and or skull happens to be.
Let us get back on topic. At the very least as close as we can.
This thread reminded me of one of the worse wipe outs I have ever had. It happened at Blacks on a day that was well over head. Maybe 12 to 15 foot. Getting to the line up at Blacks can be tricky. lots of white water and a shifting peak makes the paddle out interesting. Even when you think you have made it ,things can go wrong. Paddling out I took a monster set on the head. wave after wave kept pounding me . Finally I made it out side and paddle further out to take a breather. While sitting far outside the pack I see another Monster set aimed right at me. This time I was in perfect position. My arms were still rubber from the paddle out but there was no way I cold let this wave pass me by. I was just about into the wave a couple of more strong strokes and I would have dropped into a massive beautiful wave. It was just at that moment that my aching arms gave out. I did have any reserves left. The wave pitched taking me with it. i free fell from the lip to the bottom hitting it flat I was then sucked up the face and once more slammed down. I Took about three more wave squire on the head each was a long long hold down. By the time that set passed I was dizzy and disoriented from lack of oxygen. I did not swim in as much as let the white water push me in like some pathetic piece of driftwood. I flopped down on the beach next to my Board and lay their for a long long time.
The lessons I learned that day were to respect Blacks, and also my everyday driver might not be the best choice for big waves. It wasn't long after that, that I had my first California semi gun shaped.
Yeah a board that does not hand up can be a big deal
artz, good story I can relate to! Blacks is pure nature that way. I think it's two different issues though. You say that your arms were done and it's big waves.
What I have experienced and what I think mako224 experienced is something different: a board that paddles really well and surfs really well, once going, but which has a tendency on fast pitching waves to stall at that critical moment in a way that is totally unexpected.
When I posted on the same topic a while back, I got PMs from a couple of guys saying, "Oh yeah I've experience exactly that--was it XX model of surfboard?" In both cases it was not the same model but the same style--a short, squat take on the thruster knda like a Dwart or Dumpster Diver.
I'm interested in this topic because I love my board but for that one flaw. If I could make it go at fast Blacks or the jetties, then I'd be set 90% of the time instead of 75% of the time. The holy grail.
My take is that the problem is definately from under the chest to the nose of the board. The nose of this board resists going down hill when I am paddling into a wave. The more I think about it is has to be the combination of concave, width and rails I used in the forward third of the board that causes this quirk.
"My take is that the problem is definately from under the chest to the nose of the board. The nose of this board resists going down hill when I am paddling into a wave. The more I think about it is has to be the combination of concave, width and rails I used in the forward third of the board that causes this quirk."
Hey Mako, wondering if you found a solution to this problem? Having the same issue with one of my boards and I thought exactly what you said here. But also thought the easiest solution might actually be to add more rocker in the entry so it would tip forward a little better in steeper stuff.