Everyone post your email address here, I can email now. The Joy!
Hooked up the modem via underground cable from byron, up the hill to my teepee. Things are cooking now boys, im in the 21st century, years lost in the wilderness,finally I can see the reason...yeeaaah havin a party tonight cookin those spoons and rubber bags..that thick black cloud will stretch around the globe for all to see.im alive,no more half roundhouses..stylin body language saves the scene cause it wont get round enough.no more stage 4 dragging me back, exit stage 3.fins.no restrictions,less straight lining,i can turn...4ft bryon pass.midnight.fullmoon.late feb.first swell of summer. massive reality check..speed unlimited.fast turns in the power pocket,minimum effort.just stay in the curl.no pumping.just sit back and wait.then wide sweep way out on the face,speedo increase as it accelerates back.straight off the lip and sit back in the power.1 fin 1 line.pure but lacking.this is the shit so many paths so little time.got a lot of catching up to do.40 years on the one path.no more mellow crumblers..gotta be there.
can I say it agian? whoa
hey george, where did you buy thet stuff?? or do you grow yr own??
Swaylocks Crew , ck out The Surfer's Journal, VHS, 50 years of surfing profiles! Bruce brown, Greg Macgillivary and " George Greenough " After reading george's inspiring writting I dug thru soom tapes Bill Hamilton gave me and was blowen away by Georges footage... MORE PLEASE GEORGE !! Mahalo for your controbutions George, Have a great surf ! Clyde Rodgers