Best logo paper for opaque boards

Anyone have any good rice papers for opaque boards that wets out clear and does not produce a halo? My current paper you can see the ghosting of the paper. I screen my own logos and am looking for a better paper. 

Reverb has mentioned in the past a paper called seda paper. But googling does not turn up much. Links to a few cigarette rolling papers…which he mentions the paper is similar too. Anyways anybody got any info on a good paper for dark boards?

The halo your seeing is the sizing in the paper. Sizing is kinda like a starch to make paper resistant to water and more durable. Unsized mulberry fiber rice paper completely disapears when glassed over dark colors. That paper is sold as silky heavy and silky medium. I know Mitches in Solana Beach used to sell it by the sheet. They may still do. I was buying it by the roll from Interwest but last year the lady who sold it stopped answering the phone. 

Good info atomized.  Had heard about the Mulberry paper before.  Most of the paper I have gotten from Silk Screen shops ia labeled somewhere on the sheet with a “bullseye”.  That’s whatI call it, but it is actually a circle with a cross on it like a site on a rifle.  i’ll Try to get a pic of it.  I was told that is the label of the paper manufacturer.  Know anything about that paper?

That is some good info atomized…i had never heard of the non sized paper.

mcding the bullseye on the screenprintes lams is most likely just the printers registration mark for aligning screens. Common practice.

I think you are absolutely right.  I bought a Screen Printer last year and have been learning and researching the process.  Makes perfect sense to me.  Thank you.

Lowel, silk screening is awesome. Trickiest part for most people is getting the artwork on a screen. Around here is is about 50 USD to have a professional place shoot the screen.

For printing on thin paper you want a finer mesh than printing on t-shirts. A good supplier can coach someone on that.

Normally I get the 16 GSM (grams per square meter) ‘rice’ (mulberry) paper from my local art store.

UncleD sent me some that is 27 GSM that is really nice and I prefer it for the 3-pass logos. I run a piece of sacrificial typing paper underneath when printing on ‘rice’ as the ink tends to go right through it, another reason to use a higher mesh count (less ink through screen).

Below is the UncleD paper, a homemade screen (IKEA curtain liner on a 2x2 frame), and the resulting print after 3 passes. Speedball waterbased ink.

 

I am going to reread everything in your post a couple of times.  There is a company in the City of Industry that does screens ridiculously inexspensive and UPS them back to you.  You just send them your art via email.  I’m going to go that route while experimenting and trying to make my own.   Lowel

Burning a screen is seriously one of the easiest things i have ever done. $50 a pop those guys are crushing it.

Yup!  But hell!  I’d charge that too, if I could get away with it.

To have a screen stripped is 7$, recoated and shot is 20$. Minimum artwork charge 15$. Remesh and frame are extra. They run a business and do not take a loss on providing services.

Once you have screen frames, mesh, mesh glue, hand tools, clamps, squeegees, ink, paper, emulsion, scoop coater, drying rack, exposer, suitable artwork printer, pressure washer, emulsion stripper, and a press…the rest is peanuts. Fifty cents worth of paper and emulsion and a bunch of time messing around.

I get a hankering a couple times a year to print. Rarely does it make bank. But I enjoy the process and leave it at that.

Yes it is an interesting process.  A friend of mine used to do all his “T”’s on a table in the back of his surf shop.  One shirt at a time using a cardboard insert.  Single screen, single color.  Watching him do that way back in 1969 opened my eyes.   Lowel

…hello Deez, here is a board with Red opaque work and one of my logotypes; as you see no halo.

Other thing that most cannot understand, included big companies is that you need a White reticule all around the logotype; that way the logo would be better to differentiate from the color work.

In the case of old tinted boards most were done with a bad quality silkscreening and the glassers put the paper as a clear lamintaion, that way, the Black does not look 100% Black and you can see the paper in between.

 

Yes reverb the white background on Opaques and Tints really works.  I ordered lams from a screen printer and intended to order one color;  Black.  I mistakingly said Black on White.  Which is considered two color.  The lams came back black on white.   Once I got them I realized how well the White background worked.  Nice White Pinline on that red board reverb.

…thanks; the bottom is an acid splash and a Okume/red tin resin/fiber fin.

I glued a 3/8 Okume stringer on that blank.

 

This is why I have grown to like Lams with a white background.