I was giving you a chance, but this is clueless:
"Thanks SammA - I have some users with a different point of view and that is good. They live 50 min or more from the beach and look for an accurate alternative - oldmanwaves.com provides that. They have personally told me that trucking to the beach is no longer a waste-of-time or a guessing game"
Nobody that surfs every day, and is genuinely devoted to surfing, looks at that as a good thing. Not even the ones that live 50 min away, because you're helping to ensure that, when they arrive, every wave has a numerous kooks in the way. If you're trying to say it is, you may suffer from a personality disorder. People who try to foist off obvious falsehoods on others with a smile generally do.

"batfishe," 50 mi away is real, just including! - crowded beaches are here to stay - youngins wanting to learn is real, sharing waves are real - Can we Get Back on track clueless or not to Swell Forecasting 101 - Lets rationally discuss

"batfishe," 50 mi away is real, just including! - crowded beaches are here to stay - youngins wanting to learn is real, sharing waves are real - Can we Get Back on track clueless or not to Swell Forecasting 101 - Lets rationally discuss

Thanks,

oldmanwaves.com

I'm not answering you again, about anything. If I can find an ignore function, you'll be the first person I've ever put on it.

Eg.
4ft @ 10 seconds = 6ft breaking waves WRONG
4ft @ 20 seconds = 9ft breaking waves WRONG
• Doubling the period gives about a 50% increase in the height of the breaking waves from the same sized swell. WRONG

A ten second wave becomes a shallow water wave in 256 feet of water, which is half the wave length in deep water. It is at that point when it begins to 'feel' the bottom and lose energy. No 4 ft swell at 10 secs breaks as a 6 ft wave.
The closest buoy to my locale that gives relevant swell info always reads about double the actual wave height at nearby spots. IOW, rule of thumb here is read the buoy and divide by 2.
FYI, the buoy in question is wide open to the same swell window as the spots referenced, so that is not a factor in the reduction.
Similarly, a 20 second period swell feels the bottom at a much greater depth. While period is a direct reflection of energy, the loss of said energy is entirely dependent on bathymetry. Saying that a 4 swell can more than double in wave height if the period doubles makes me suspect that don't have a clue. But I'm sure there are many fans of the WSL and other noobs who will not question your "expertise" .
Meanwhile, this old bastard is sitting here like;

I just did the math for a swell with a 20 second period. Wave length can be calculated as the square of the period multiplied by 5.12. This is for deep water waves. A 20 sec period has a wavelength of 2048 feet. Once it enters a depth 1024 ft it's a shallow water wave and is subject to energy loss and also refraction.

How deep does a long period go? I like to use this calculation and it also is dependent on the swell period:

That depth in feet is calculated by squaring the swell period then multiplying the product by 2.56. In the case of a swell with 20 second period, the math is 20 x 20 = 400, 400 x 2.56 = 1,024 feet.

Thank You SammyA for getting into some Swell Forecasting 101 - - The best of your paragraph is this: "entirely dependent on bathymetry." I totally agree!

We who live minutes from homebreaks would all be happier if no www forecasting existed. Without exception. I pay for Surfline, but wd be happier if it didn't exist

"batfishe," 50 mi away is real, just including! - crowded beaches are here to stay - youngins wanting to learn is real, sharing waves are real - Can we Get Back on track clueless or not to Swell Forecasting 101 - Lets rationally discuss

Thanks,

oldmanwaves.com

oldmanwaves.comThank you batfische - Lets discuss Swell Forecasting 101

oldmanwaves.comA ten second wave becomes a shallow water wave in 256 feet of water, which is half the wave length in deep water. It is at that point when it begins to 'feel' the bottom and lose energy. No 4 ft swell at 10 secs breaks as a 6 ft wave.

The closest buoy to my locale that gives relevant swell info always reads about double the actual wave height at nearby spots. IOW, rule of thumb here is read the buoy and divide by 2.

FYI, the buoy in question is wide open to the same swell window as the spots referenced, so that is not a factor in the reduction.

Similarly, a 20 second period swell feels the bottom at a much greater depth. While period is a direct reflection of energy, the loss of said energy is entirely dependent on bathymetry. Saying that a 4 swell can more than double in wave height if the period doubles makes me suspect that don't have a clue. But I'm sure there are many fans of the WSL and other noobs who will not question your "expertise" .

Meanwhile, this old bastard is sitting here like;

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This space reserved to mock trolls

I just did the math for a swell with a 20 second period. Wave length can be calculated as the square of the period multiplied by 5.12. This is for deep water waves. A 20 sec period has a wavelength of 2048 feet. Once it enters a depth 1024 ft it's a shallow water wave and is subject to energy loss and also refraction.

This space reserved to mock trolls

How deep does a long period go? I like to use this calculation and it also is dependent on the swell period:

That depth in feet is calculated by squaring the swell period then multiplying the product by 2.56. In the case of a swell with 20 second period, the math is 20 x 20 = 400, 400 x 2.56 = 1,024 feet.

oldmanwaves.comWhy did you bother repeating what I already wrote? One half the wavelength equals the depth at which a swell becomes a shallow water wave.

This space reserved to mock trolls

Thank You SammyA for getting into some Swell Forecasting 101 - - The best of your paragraph is this: "entirely dependent on bathymetry." I totally agree!

oldmanwaves.comWe who live minutes from homebreaks would all be happier if no www forecasting existed. Without exception. I pay for Surfline, but wd be happier if it didn't exist

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