Thanks Wrcsxeight - I know I want to teach my grandson how to surf, but I will teach him surf etiquette as well. Like I said we are a small company and offer cool functions like Secret Spots that only you can see - and I can say there are still some around although for some reason remain so - yes, even on the weekends.
This Winter, I'm usually out in the water at sunrise and surf an hour before it gets crowded then I go to that secret spot mentioned above
The sport continues with contests and other interesting events which also expands exposure from media coverage and that also compounds your concerns.
I just have a tool for surfers by surfers - but thanks for your heatfelt comments
I'd like to start another discussion but keep the previous discussions open!
Tides usually mean the rise and fall of the sea levels. It’s affect at your local break is caused by the gravitational forces of the moon and sun on the earth and the rotation of the earth.
This is another important factor for Swell Forecasting 101 at your local break.
I have a surf spot I like to go to that shuts down with a weak swell, short swell period and a tide over 5'.
I wd bet my car this guy mainly rides an SUP. Thread is the forum equivalent of a guy who comes out to a no-SUP spot, where nobody knows him, and immediately sets up on top of 5 or 19 regs.
You can't shut him up by shaming him. Any attention to him is approval, bc he has been hated and attention starved his entire (60+ years) life.
Keeping on Topic - I'd like to start another discussion but keep the previous discussions open!
Swell height according to oceanography is the average of the largest 1/3rd of all waves. Something very much like the average set wave. It's measured from the trough (very lowest point) to peak (very highest point) of each wave. Generally speaking the larger the swell the larger the waves it'll create at your local break.
I notice at my local break, the set waves can catch us off-guard.
Anyone have any experiences or stories with this surprising (yet can be rewarding) event?
Swell height according to oceanography is the average of the largest 1/3rd of all waves.
Wrong, again!! What you just described is called the significant wave height, expressed as SWH or Hs.
So far, you have been totally wrong about some really basic stuff. Anyone who pays you for your "knowledge" is getting robbed, IMO.
Look at any of the Scripps wave buoys and you will see that the swell height is given as a totally separate reading from the SWH.
Here, learn something.
There is a Paradigm shift for the average joe surfer like the surfers who use oldmanwaves.com. They want less technical buoy data and more user friendly information.
For Example Swell Height Below (in both feet or if selected meters):
The Green bars below are the breaking waves at that beach
The Orange bars are the primary swell
The layout is very clear with the swell periods under the swell height for the hours indicated
Lets move on now to Swell Direction - another important piece of the puzzle in Swell Forecasting 101
The Swell direction is the direction from which the swell is coming. It is measured in degrees (as on a compass), and often referred to in general directions, such as a NNW or SW swell.
For surfers, swells need be heading to their local beaches for them to ride them. Swells need to navigate around obstructions like islands or other things that slow or reduce its energy.
Where I surf is a South facing beach. When the swells come from 300+ degrees or NW to N direction, the swells could by-pass our breaks. However, the West facing beaches can see higher swell heights.
Early this morning around 6:30am (Jan 20th), at my South facing beach, we had waist to shoulder high sets. But the day before we had knee to waist high sets. However, both days had similary primary swells heights, and similar swell periods again both days had swells coming from the same direction.
Thanks Wrcsxeight - I know I want to teach my grandson how to surf, but I will teach him surf etiquette as well. Like I said we are a small company and offer cool functions like Secret Spots that only you can see - and I can say there are still some around although for some reason remain so - yes, even on the weekends.
This Winter, I'm usually out in the water at sunrise and surf an hour before it gets crowded then I go to that secret spot mentioned above
The sport continues with contests and other interesting events which also expands exposure from media coverage and that also compounds your concerns.
I just have a tool for surfers by surfers - but thanks for your heatfelt comments
oldmanwaves.com
I'd like to start another discussion but keep the previous discussions open!
Tides usually mean the rise and fall of the sea levels. It’s affect at your local break is caused by the gravitational forces of the moon and sun on the earth and the rotation of the earth.
oldmanwaves.com
To quote NASA on surf forecasting,
“That said, nothing quite substitutes for experience in the water.”
Swaylocks Surfboard Design Forum: thoughts & theories ... practical & theoretical
RAIL PROFILE http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2014/03/march-82014-afterr-seeing-recent.html
I wd bet my car this guy mainly rides an SUP. Thread is the forum equivalent of a guy who comes out to a no-SUP spot, where nobody knows him, and immediately sets up on top of 5 or 19 regs.
You can't shut him up by shaming him. Any attention to him is approval, bc he has been hated and attention starved his entire (60+ years) life.
No attention, to him, is bad attention.
You guys are ridiculous. 3 pages of bull shit because you were stupid enough to reply. Leave it up to Sammy every time.
The Swaylocks RA weighs in, again.
“That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.”
Keeping on Topic - I'd like to start another discussion but keep the previous discussions open!
Swell height according to oceanography is the average of the largest 1/3rd of all waves. Something very much like the average set wave. It's measured from the trough (very lowest point) to peak (very highest point) of each wave. Generally speaking the larger the swell the larger the waves it'll create at your local break.
I notice at my local break, the set waves can catch us off-guard.
Anyone have any experiences or stories with this surprising (yet can be rewarding) event?
set.png
oldmanwaves.com
Wrong, again!! What you just described is called the significant wave height, expressed as SWH or Hs.
So far, you have been totally wrong about some really basic stuff. Anyone who pays you for your "knowledge" is getting robbed, IMO.
Look at any of the Scripps wave buoys and you will see that the swell height is given as a totally separate reading from the SWH.
Here, learn something.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height
“That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.”
There is a Paradigm shift for the average joe surfer like the surfers who use oldmanwaves.com. They want less technical buoy data and more user friendly information.
For Example Swell Height Below (in both feet or if selected meters):
The layout is very clear with the swell periods under the swell height for the hours indicated
SwellHeight.png
oldmanwaves.com
Lets move on now to Swell Direction - another important piece of the puzzle in Swell Forecasting 101
The Swell direction is the direction from which the swell is coming. It is measured in degrees (as on a compass), and often referred to in general directions, such as a NNW or SW swell.
SwellDirection.png
oldmanwaves.com
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