5 panels on, with long glue up times I can get just 2 panels on a day. No rush though, gives me time to think through my next mistake.
I'm not sure if the pictures do it justice but the different curves are starting to show. 3 different curves along the stringer and then a perpendicular curve under the back foot, a different one across the middle and another across the nose. Amazing to see these come to life in 3d, you cant get a feel for this in 2d. Anyway, another reason I love making things.
REgarding Vent, insert a threaded insert and a matching screw with an O-Ring (which I forgot several time to close) or invest in Goretex Valve with high airflow. By now I did not face any problems with them, but they are quite expensive, just the screw is about 9$...
Always kind of amazed that you guys have enough confidence in your process that you do not seal the inside, Totally sealing it is difficult of course, but bare wood, especially plywood's endgrain, is a sponge.
For the vents I use the R62-5088 and the R625150 thumbscrew.
No experience with goretex vents
I also made a rear brass vent for cross ventialtion for when it inevitably gets water inside, but I also have removed it somewhat regularly and rig up a computer fan to suck dry desert santa ana air through it.. Condensation can form inside even if the skin is never punctured.
I/ve never tried installing a vent afterwards, always before the deck panel gets attached.
I modified the brass insert(1/4-20 internal threads) and made my own stainless 'grub' screw. I meant to order a brass grub screw. I use Vibra-tite v3 thread locker to seal it, with a smidge of Amazing goop over both for extra insurance. The amazing goop can peel off if one gets a sharp chisel shaped tweezer under it. The vibratite never fully dries, kind of like feathering disk adhesive used on sandpaper and powerpads.
I modified the thumbscrew vent receptacle so it would appear smaller. The nose vent is pushed as far forwards as i can get them for maximum drainage, as I consider water getting inside an inevitable. The only HWS That is no longer, is because I used Balsa inside of it and did not seal it adequately. The balsa turned to heavy mush.
Coming along nicely! Love it when the top skin goes on and is trimmed! Really starts to come together then.
The two SUPs and 1st surfboard I made I sealed with thinned epoxy, but haven't on the last 2 surfboards made. Kinda want to see if they hold up without it to save weight on them. I realized I was adding about 1.5lbs to the board with it which isn't much, but honestly without that little bit just makes them feel right to me... I don't know... I am still very new to this and want to see what does and doesn't work for me.
I used the brass screw on the SUPs, but switched to the goretex vents on the surfboards. I am using the casica brand with a donaldson vent which was recommended to me by a wooden surfboard comapany... its what they've been using for years without any failures so far. They make a retro fit style with a lip and a flush mount insert version. Little more pricey, but it's the only thing keeping my unsealed interior dry! Ha
Looking for some input on thinning out this deck. It's a whopping 9mm and could easily go down to 6mm.
I'm worried an electric planer would be too wild and without a skilled hand I'd lose all the shape that's already there. I need something inbetween planer and course sand paper. Wood rasp?
I'm with Huck... A hand plane will be the best bet IMO if you have one. Shape can still get away from you if you aren't switched on, but not nearly as quick as an electric planer and if you typically don't remove more material than you can fix once realizing you've gone too far.
Lots of glueing strips for the rails so not much to show over the last week. I'm getting closer to shaping these rails. The first drawings shows A and B variations of the rails, the only difference being the very bottom edge measurement: 1/2" (incorectly labelled as 1/4") or 3/8".
I think I'm going with B as it just looks right. A bit more knifey. The second image shows the steps to get this rail shape.
Does this look right to you for a simmons-fish? Am I way off with these numbers? I'm of the just give it a go school but if im way off i dont want to trash the board.
Note the blank already has a 9degree angle in the deck as it's a HWS not a foam blank.
One change I'm considering is the 4"band, bringing it in to 3" because of the angle that's already in the 'blank'
Picture, rough finished, 24mm of rail thickness built up from 3mm and 9mm ply.