I started a SUP for lake use for my daughter about 2 years ago, EPS+epoxy+‘mystery’ (8oz boat grade) cloth. Miserable cloth in it’s own right but I digress.
I narfed the rails something terrible with dry spots, burn-throughs, and poor relief cuts. I did a walk-around and removed the dry spots and marked all areas of concern.
Then it sat on the shelf for 20 months.
She comes back yesterday and is willing to help me finish, sets us up in her art booth as a shop, and lined up a friend to give it an auto body paint job afer glassing.
So all we need to to is fix dings, sand all, dust off, one layer of decent 6oz cloth each side, maybe a deck patch, fill coat, open leash plugs and fin boxes.
We did dings last night.
Fin boxes (FU longboard and Gearbox sidebites) are in and opened in the first glass layer, leash and bungee plugs are in the deck but still closed.
My question is do we tape off fin boxes for the second lam and then open them before fill coat or leave them taped until after fill coat?
Same question for plugs on top. Those seem more natural to cut an X over them in the glass while laminating and grind open later.
Just having mental blocks from not having done this for a couple years now… I think I have a router bit that would open a longboard box post-lam.
So glad this one is a ‘painter’ as it will never be a ‘looker’.
Wow you’re almost as bad as I am about finishing up started projects. Probably depends on how you intend to finish. An Auto paint; I would open them up with a grinder and “fair” them as necessary pre primer and paint. Then paint over leaving only the openings. An Opaque glass job can be done the same way by using flour packed in the openings. Then use a Dremel and ice pick or awl to clean them up. Clear; just tape off and cut. I have found it easier to cut and pull tape after glass and then retape at hotcoat. Less grinding and easier to finish.
I went to check the epoxy resin and it was about 1/4 crystalized. Got out the camp stove and an old roaster with a bottom rack and did a warm water bath 120-140 F (50-60 C) and it cleared right up.
I think tape and open each step will be best for the fin boxes and then tape stuff off for paint so the kids don’t forget. I have used the flour trick too, saves your peace of mind if the tape leaks any. I now remember putting wax in the grub screw threads too.
The wind came up around here and will be gusting for a few days. We dropped the booth and cleaned out a bay’s worth of space in the garage. Started talking about deck fittings and realized I had bought a vented handle for this board as the supplier was out of vented plugs. Freehanded the rout as I did not have a template or bit for this one. Routered about an inch down and Forstner bit for the rest. Epoxy on the bottom, clear Gorilla glue on the sides againt the HD foam on the insert. Everything is sanded, dusted, and ready to go for glass tomorrow. Wrote a list of steps so as not to forget something (again). I am also going to watch a couple more glassing videos and try to reflow some of the synapses in the old noodle.
Finished the stand risers, cut cloth, laminated 6oz glass + 6oz carbon fiber patch + epoxy. The risers worked good, allowed me to sneak the squeegee under the board without having to change stands. Glad this batch is a slower hardener and the temps are 70ish. I would of had all I could manage at 95 F / 36 C and fast hardener. Also glad the board is getting painted…I had about 3.5oz [110g] left in the cup that became patching material for the pukas in my garage floor.
Fun read. Thanks for posting. Reminds me of my first balsa build. Start, stop, start, frustration, plan to cut it in half and throw it in the trash, redeem it, fix it, etc. Glad I finished it. You will be too.
Maybe put some rail guard tape on it so you don’t scratch the paint? I think it’s called helicopter tape? EBay.
Thanks Greg. Some more progress pics. Cloth is all on, plugs, fin boxes, and handle opened up. next is to hand sand lap and fill coat tonight and tomorrow. I totally forgot about rail saver tape. I had to buy some more 233+ or whatever # the new green 3M heavy duty tape is and another bottle of orange hand cleaner. I will be out of chip brushes after this is done too. Laps made with the nicer 6oz cloth are much easier to wrap[ and sand compared to the ‘mystery’ 7.5oz boat cloth I started with.
SUPs have gone the route of Sailboards. So many plugs handles etc. Patches, fairing and combo lay ups. To make them cosmetic, it becomes necessary to do an automotive style paint job. I repaired a lot of Sailboards on Maui that were all painted with automotive style finishes. Got pretty good with a cup gun. Even did a few of my own surfboards with paint and clear coat. You see a lot of that type of finish on Surftech and FireWire.
Adam, loved/agreed with the quote/reference, no offense taken.
Lowell, I would like to learn to do that type of painting. I took a weekend class from a coworker who does cars but have yet to buy my own paints and give it a go. I would need to step up my sanding game. On this board my daughter has friends who want to help her with the paint so I am off the hook. I have an old windsurfer that needs glassing repairs followed by paint and I have a couple ‘rat rod’ things I want to do like putting a metalflaked and candied air cleaner on the 350 in the old RV.
They make a rust treatment that alot of auto body guys use on frames before under coat or paint. Saw it for sale recently at an Ace. It seals and primer isn’t necessary, but I prime it anyway. Naval Jelly. I think it’s the one in the blue labeled plastic bottle. They also make one that just neutralizes the rust,but doesn’t seal it(pink label). Auto paint stores sell a better product, but don’t know the name. Cheaper and larger quantities. Find me a '50 Pontiac “Chieftan” back there for low $$. Lowel
