Sometimes I wonder whether I'm jinxed

This doesn’t have anything to do with board design.

I’m dealing with coming to terms with something that has been an issue and a mystery to me since I began surfing, and that is the Ocean’s personality.

And I just have to wonder how many other guys experience the things that I experience, and if so what to do about it.

I sit in a spot where I saw waves breaking and no waves come, then I paddle away and I see an epic wave that came to exactly where I was sitting.

I decide to sit there and talk to someone else for a while and while we’re both distracted, a set comes and we’re not in position.

But there are some guys who always seem to be in position.

I might sit in a spot for 20 min and, nothing. Then another guy paddles out and an epic wave comes and he gets it.

This is the most esoteric challenge that I have to deal with in surfing and one that has been present since day 1.

I would swear that I need some magic, But I don’t know what to do to make it happen.

Does anyone else go through this?

Seems to me its just like anything else, there are always some who have more of a knack at something than others, but the guy with persistence and a positive outlook ends up progressing regardless. Even the pros have good days and bad days. I do relate to your comment, but its been my experience that if you put in enough time and effort, eventually you’ll get a few good days and a few good waves where you were the guy in position. Much of surfing is a mental game of deliberate optimism.

Sounds like  beachbreak surfing.

 

I notice those that learned to surf in crowds, rarely or never use landmarks to position themselves, and without a crowd, have no Idea where to sit, and perhaps whether the waves are even good or not.

I like to yell ‘thank you’ when underwater on my first duck dive and after each wave.  Frustration, and cursing at the ocean, only leads to more of the same.

 

You can always try the George Costanza opposite thing, If every instinct you have is wrong, then the opposite must be right.  no more tuna on toast.

Yup - Beachbreak

There is really no pro/con to this therefore it couldn’t be debated

Just different individual’s experiences.

But there never fails to be someone else out there who’s somehow gifted with a wave magnet.

If someone could explain how to make that happen… I mean it just seems miraculous

As if it’s a supernatural phenomenon that some people have somehow succeeded at getting into synch with.

The cause/effect seems to be something outside of typical earthly reality

It might be that I just need to go to bed earlier, so I can wake up earlier

My surfing buddy from high school / college days was like that. We would paddle out together, and he would have 3 waves before I even made it to the lineup. Clunky as a goonie bird playing basketball, but graceful as a swan on a wave. Some guys just have it.

(chuckling) Y’think? 

First, don’t paddle out right away. Take your time, putting on your suit, watching the water, where’s the easy paddle, where’s the peak, the other peak, what’s the indicator offshore where it  bumps up to let you know there’s a set coming. Pick out a couple of landmarks for your lineup references. Let everybody else paddle straight out, yahoo yahoo, you want to watch for a bit. 

Take your time paddling out too. See where the swell bends as it picks up on the bar. That gives you a map of the bottom. Have a glance at the shore. There you are. 

Don’t watch the beach, don’t look for somebody that might take your picture. A glance now and then, see if you’ve drifted anywhere. But watch the horizon. 

You see a bump. Don’t say anything, maybe nod to your particular friends and slowly, stealthily paddle to where it’s going to peak. If you like, and your friends are onto it, maybe whistle a tune so they know what you’[re doing, they might return the favor. I’ve been known to do the first bit of The Good, The Bad and the Ugly as I go towards where the peak is going to be. As you get clear of everybody else you can paddle a little harder, a little more obviously. You head for a spot ( that you figured out from watching the swell pick up and figuring out the bottom) where it won’t close out on you, where you can be as close to the peak as makes sense, where you can make the wave, not too far… 

But watch the horizon for that bump. That’s the magic, paying attention to the ocean. So many don’t. The ocean appreciates the attention, she’s got a little ego, a little vanity after all. And she rewards you for that and sends you waves… 

Sacrificing a chicken to Huey works too, but then you have to deal with the feathers. 

hope that’s of use

doc…

 

You’re jinxed.  And if I was surfing with you I wouldn’t follow you around.

Good thread. We’ve all been there. Except McDing who is a wave magnet. 

Doc, spot on. 

all the best 

I quit surfing for a few years, because of work, and surfing ain’t like riding a bicycle.

Looking back - I can remember times when I had it figured out.

I need to remind myself not to get frustrated over the fact that I won’t be able to just jump in and take over where I left off.

The Ocean does have a personality, and she can mess with us little humans when she reads our frustration.

She may be messing with me for having gone MIA for a while.

There was a time when I had that gift.

It’s one of the finer points of surfing that makes the difference between coming in stoked or not.

Never tried the chicken sacrifice

Ah, the thing to remember is that it’s supposed to be fun.

If it’s not, well, maybe there’s something else you were supposed to be doing that day, that fate or Karma or the significant blonde meant you to be doing instead. Fishing or reading or sleeping in, for instance. 

Apropos of nothing - where I live it’s vacation world Has been since the railroad came to town. When I was a kid my grandmother rented out a couple of beach houses she had and the people would take them for a month or two or for the summer entirely. 

There were fish to catch, paths to walk, berries to pick, books to read. In town, and being charitable, there were maybe five ‘restaurants’ if nobody wanted to cook, and if that was an ongoing thing then they’d go to the various places in a kind of rotation. 

But the thing is, people got it. The idea of a vacation, that is. Relax, unwind, don’t push it. Decompress a little. 

The problem is that now, it’s different. Let’s say it’s the granddaughter of the people who used to rent my grandmother’s long-gone beach house. And instead of a month or two, she (with her husband’s credit card) has rented a place for a week. At a rental price that I suspect my grandmother would have happily accepted back then if you wanted to buy one of the beach houses. 

And as a matter of family lore, she knows what they used to do in their month or so. And she is by gawd going to jam all of that into her week. Everything is laid out, scheduled. 

And instead of picking a day that’s pleasant, nope, Tuesday is the day they are going to the beach. “But Mom, it’s raining and blowing, look, the beach chair just blew away”. “I don’t care, it’s Tuesday and we are going to the beach, just like it says on the schedule”. 

Heaven help you if you want to, say, go to a movie or something and you’re in line ahead of her. Jennifer, or Karen - and you get where that’s coming from, will be going off about this and that, complaining about every damn thing, as in she has an absolute right to things being just the way she wants them. Her grandmother would have gone with the flow, but not her. Likewise restaurants, likewise getting the groceries. 

I’m not surprised that a lot of them wind up vacationing by themselves. The husbands suddenly have work that absolutely needs them back home. I am surprised we don’t have a higher murder rate. 

Local folks like me, we hide until Autumn. When it becomes fun again. Surfing in the summer? The waves are blah, everybody and his cousin Louie is ineptly out there on rarely used boards or rentals, smack in the way, and no manners at all. Don’t even get me started on the StUPid. 

So- the moral of the story that I have beaten you half to death with: have fun, don’t worry about catching more waves than you do. Enjoy the ones, or the one, you do get. A wave is a wonderfully or terribly transient, impermanent thing, you catch it and you’re there for a few moments and it’s gone with no trace but a swirl of water and a memory., that matters as much or as little as you want it to. 

hope that’s of use

doc…

+1 on what Doc said about focused attention on the horizon and on “bumps” forming up. Start as you’re walking on the sand. Sit a few minutes and watch. Forget everything else. It’s a sport, it’s a game, it’s a dance, and above all…a meditation.

Also, chicken sacrifice is weak sauce. Go BIG and eat SPAM! That’ll do it every time.