Was that meant to be cryptic and unhelpful or am I reading it wrong? Sounds like you're pretty fed up. Maybe find a cat to take it out on rather than an innocent curious question from someone interested in learning. You do have the option of not posting if constructive advice isn't your bag these days McDing, in case you weren't aware.
I am being constructive. Don't go by everything you read in a book. Consider the source and out of curiosity; What book? And; Who wrote it? How many surfboards do you see with hard rails all the way around? I frequent surf shops and rarely see rails as you describe. There's a reason for that. Anything can work on a surfboard, but not everything is practical, nor will it get the best result. If you only buy and shape 2nds, you'll always be working against the grain. More often than not you'll be trying to shape something out of a blank that just isn't in It. If you are just learning, take sound advice and do a little research. Ortherwise you come off like someone who has built there first board and is now an expert. Which in your case is exactly what you sound like. I do get a little tired of hot air. But that's alright. Have at it. I don't have to read four pages of it.
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
Toilet seat rails, ha, I will make sure he knows that thanks!
I didn't mention (in case it matters), the board has a single to double concave. The front 10-12 inches (nose) has a VERY thin but rounded (about 60/40) rail, then the rest is virtually 90 degrees, definitely 90 around the tail and maybe 100 degrees round the middle. At a glance it looks like a tail rail all the way round. This board has become very thin as he wanted a flat deck and, well long story short it ended up very thin compared to his nice boxy railed shortboard i made last time (he was still learning/beginnery then, much improved surfer now).
I will get back to it tomorrow and glass it. There is very little room (thin rails) to tuck much but I will definitely have a go. If i had the time and money to let this one stay as it is and take a gamble I sure would like to! But I had to save up for this blank and don't have much spare change to go buying another if he doesn't like it. Safer option sounds wise.
Just in terms of what effect this current rail style would have, you say more lift (still not entirely sure I understand what lift is really, just being honest!) but am i right in thinking those knife edges would make the board ultra (perhaps too) responsive, so any weight onto either rail and it will cut and carve fast? That's what my logic suggests, but I know very little, in case that wasn't obvious, which it was. :)
thanks again. Toilet Seats R Us
More great advice thanks. I am not sure what glass I have. I have volan (yuk for this!) and may have hexcel 6 and 4, or possibly only 6. not sure yet. I usually do 6+4 deck, 6 bottom (as a minimum). I have done 3 x 4oz on top and the damn things still get pressure dents so I am not doing that any more! 4+4 top and bottom I can do if i have 4. I could actually do 6+6 if all i have is 6, we don't mind weighty boards and I have made a few with 6+6+4 deck and min 6 (or 6+4) bottom and they weren't too heavy.
I will see what tuck I can get on it. There's almost no rails left so I will talk him into letting me round the bottom edge off. I have a very adventurous glassing job to do (colour work i mean) and I hadn't thought about the bubbles issue, good call thanks! I have built a hard edge with resin before so will see if i can somehow squeeze the edges into rounds if at all possible.
great tips thanks
A little late to the party here, but want to throw this out more for education for myself and OP.
Regarding rails "biting etc..." are hard rails not more maneuverable because they don't "hold" water? Meaning water can only form around curved surfaces similar to airflow over an airfoil. That's why 50/50 rails are more stable and found in classic shapes/nose riders. The water is able to cling/hold onto the rails offering stability to the board. Hence why the board is less maneuverable as you have to overcome that force. We typically harden rails towards the tail section as the stability is increased with the fin(s).
right... wrong? Thanks
Welcome to the party, although you need to get some dress shoes and a tie please. :D
You're spot on where my thinking was really. Whilst you don't often see toilet seats (certainly not where I am, mushy smallish waves), I didn't mind the challenge and I do like to experiment. I can't really afford to be too adventurous though so some experimentation is fun but if it risks destroying a board and making it an ornament to go on the wall, I should probably pull back. I think this thread has convinced me to do that!
gbz makes a very good point, this thread IS (as he said) about the transition from the tuck around the rail (excluding tail rail) to the bottom flat surface. I have a sharp edge. I am going to round that off today. The board will still be VERY knifey all around, but I am doing away with that corner lip except on the tail.
Damn, why didn't I think of that idea of adding the sharp edge with resin and could get rid of it later! I am sure I have read that idea before but totally forgot. This is one of the major difficulties of only making a board every now and then. I have forgotten everything I learned last time round! Seems like I am back to square one with this board, it's been way too long since the last one. (kid grew up out of it, hence why I am making another as he's bigger than me now!)
Time to make a list of notes and laminate the fecker on the all of the shaping bay! crib sheet, been meaning to do that for years but keep forgetting. I need a crib sheet to remind me to make crib sheets. :D