hey gbz - thanks again for input, very useful. A few times you have said "if you have a flat bottom" - Do you mean no concaves? I have single to double concave.
Hopefully these pictures show a better idea of what little I have to work with on rails..
As you can see the tail is close to bare min thickness for fitting fin boxes. I can round off a touch just to try and prevent bubbles, which I will do today. As for the rest of the rails, I will tuck and turn those but as you can see we are talking about 1/32 to 1/16 max, just enough to avoid to many bubbles hopefully, that's the plan anyway!
I have made some ultra thin boards before, thinner than this. So thin that you can shine a torch through the board after all glassing done with even dark colour work. They surf great, but I didn't intend to put myself in that position again when it comes to making/glassing as it was a friggin nightmare! Bang goes that!
Thanks. Yep the colourwork is going to test me (and my squeegee cleaning abilities in between colors!) - This is the kind of thing he wants - https://invidio.us/watch?v=rrSJrcV-ABg
I have one other question in case anyone can help..
I have only ever used ISO10X resin from Seabase.eu. Got to know it quite well, but all this Covid madness means I can't get it and had to get Silmar as that's all they have at the moment. It seems runnier in the bottle. Are there any major differences I should be aware of for glassing, i.e. will it kick differently? The colour job I am doing is about twice as adventurous as I have ever been before, not looking forward to it at all! But it would be good to know if the resin is likely to give me more headaches if it works significantly differently to the ISO10X i am used to. If anyone has used either (ideally both) I would be grateful for any comments! thanks
I didn't see if anyone mentioned this as the answer to the original question. If you're shaping a board and taking rocker out, the likely culprit is the way you are holding your planer. If you run it lengthwise down the blank, you'll straighten the rocker. If you want to keep the blank's rocker, turn your planer more perpendicular to the stringer and make your passes that way.
blah blah blah
Sorry I worded the title of the thread badly. I was trying to get more rocker FROM a blank, rather than take it out. Seems I managed it ok in the end but always had flattish boards before and struggled to get nice rockers. That's great advice though about the planer. Interesting that you mention planer too..... I realised finally (with this board after doing a good few with it) that it's no good! It takes a deeper gouge one side, I always thought it wasn't right but this board confirmed it. So I did virtually the whole thing by hand with surform and paper (and cheated with sanding disc a few times). It's a bosch planer with good new blades so it's not the blades. I have just cleaned it up to stick on fleabay. I need a replacement so I will have to read some threads for recommendations. I can't afford the Clarke modified collectibles but that model of Hitachi would probably be a good bet, if I can find (and afford) one! Not sure what model it is but will have a read around on here. My planer also took awful chunks out (hence the new blades which made no difference), and it didn't matter what the angle of attack or speed, it just did it constantly. Look forward to a decent planer, would sure speed up both my boards and my learning!