Toe-in is a bit off on fins. What to do?

So I am on my 5th board and it appears I mismeasured the fin layup by 1/8th inch or a little more. What should I do? Rip fin off and redo? I just noticed it and I am super bummed. This board is for me, not to sell. Seeking feedback and advice! Photos here: (Google drive) 

 

https://bit.ly/3ix8JWU

 

Thanks guys! I used to be very active here but forgot my login info! I made 2 of Rich’s T2See HWS Minnows, which are awesome, but this is my first foamie in a while.

 

Thank you! 

The long base on your outside fins could exaggerate the toe in and really foul up performance. Good news is; they are glass ons and an easy(er) fix than boxes. I’d strip them off and re-set them. Not much extra work and you can get right where you want them.

I’d adhere 50 to 80 grit sandpaper to an 11.5  long ~ 1 inch wide .5 inch thick  sanding block with the inside and outside cant angles cut into the block, and tape off the areas which do not need to see any sandpaper scratches, and not get it too hot when sanding off the roving do original hotcoat.  Once close, go to 220 grit to not dig into original glass and compromise its strength.

 

You’ll find this sanding block to be one of your favorite tools, so making it out of Oak or similar and sealing it with epoxy might happen too.

 

I have some made with acrylic, 1/4 inch thick, l;ength of a sheet of sandpaper lenghtwise, that bends slightly and can conform to the rocker,  and if the feathering disc adhesive build up makes it no longer perfectly flat, it comes off without damaging the block with sharp tools.

Envision the perfect tool for the task, and make it, if it does not already exist.

 

Flap sanding wheels  on an angle grinder, speed controlled by a router speed controller has become a tooI cannot live without, regarding all things fin.

 

I also like using two or three  long  flexible straight edges for marking rail fin  toe in, and an ultra sharp pencil and reading glasses far stronger than required when setting fins or fin boxes, or any task where I feel precision and accuracy, is paramount.

The third straight edge is for the centerline, and the other 2 meet at the same spot infront of nose.

 

Cant achieve that level of precision measuring off the stringer, and ‘good enough’ is subjective.

As long as it doesn’t “cross up”; I wouldn’t worry about 1/8".  I’d worry more about all that sanding you’re going to have to do on that bottom.

Ahhh that’ll go fast with the Makita orbital. I got a lil too much resin in the mix and it was setting fast. This board has been a learning experience. I am going to use a better jig the next one. 

I took all of your advice. Looks much better now. Cut off and sanded/reglassed. 

 

https://bit.ly/3ix8JWU