What’s a typical price these days for a Skil 100 in working condition?
I saw one for sale and I’m just curious if the seller is asking a reasonable amount for it.
This has been up on my facebook marketplace for a while. Basically all working condition between $350-$550 based on amps and modifications. I would be surprised if they haven’t been used for board building considering who the seller is.
Its all a matter of what the buyer is willing to spend. Skil 100s are in short supply especially really clean ones. You could search for years like I did and slowly acquire three real nice ones for less than $75 total for all 3 or you could probably reach out to PeteC and pay north of $1K for a pristine one today. There is a real nice Type 4 7.5 amp on eBay right now with a Buy It Now of $964.00 In my years of searching I paid $20 for one in identical condition. How long are you willing to search or would you rather pay $964 today?
Rarrick took his add down on this site, so I’m assuming those planers sold. Price was reasonable considering the history and the owner(which does mean something to some buyers). I have four. Two I use and two that are for sale. I haven’t advertised these planers as “For Sale” for a couple of years. All four were RnR’d by Pete. I usually advertise a planer redone by Pete for $1000 and haven’t sold one for less than $900 for several years. I don’t know how many Pete has done for me and helped me sell. Ten or twenty ?? There won’t be any more after I sell these two and I don’t care how long it takes me to sell them. Prices took a dip on unrestored Skils the last year, but will only be going up from here. I always said that when Pete quit fooling with Skils, I would quit too. Like Mako said; They’re worth whatever you are willing to pay. I’m suprised you’re asking.
I have two skill 100’s (Type 3’s) that I have had for years and never used, except to plane a door or two. They are untouched as far as restoring goes. I can do the restoration work myself, and would like to add that to my “to do” list, but am at a loss for finding parts, in case anyone out there has any parts sources info?
I actually use a cheapy skil 1535 Planer for most of my carpentry work and it is actually a great little planer. And much lighter and easier to wield.
I have four
I was going to offer you a parts planer I have, but I’ll guess there’s no urgent need?
Price was the history I have. Two years. All four were Pete I don’t know Pete. I always I would quit. I’m suprised.
That’s all you got? Lol
Good Skil’s: My definition of a “good” Skil is one never used for shaping, has a no-load current draw of < 3.5A (5.5) or 4.3A (7.5), has good bearing fits, and is not missing any major parts. But you can’t directly use it as-is for very long if at all. Most have no grease left in the bearings or are prone to a variety of electrical issues just due to the age. So my definition is based on candidates for restoration and subsequent resale with a warranty. This is the same as those I would keep for personal use. On Skil’s that were of sedimental value or used by the famous, extensive repairs may have been done but they still ended up with the same level of quality.
Buying: From estate sales and other face-to-face transactions prices can range from 100 - $300. eBay, Craigs List, etc. price can be $400-$1K. When I was doing restorations for retailers, their resale price was around $1100. There will always be prices below $100 and more than $1100, but this all depends on the seller’s expectations and your need/income.
Models: There is no difference in a 5.5 or 7.5 amp version as far as shaping goes. Under load of foam and a 1/4" stringer the current only increases about 25% so if the motors are within acceptable no-load current range there’s no need for a larger motor. In fact, the 7.5 motor is physically smaller than the 5.5 and will jerk when triggered due to the higher start up torque delivered to the belt. Much less with 5.5. 190 and 676 models (the oldest) are the best. The castings had less rework on the molds and the copper motor windings are 1950’s pure; they tend to have the best longevity based on the all of the Skil’s I’ve encountered. Worse longevity is with the later Type 4 models from the 70’s (orange/black nameplate). These have very different motors from early ones and the casting molds were so bad by then the finish had bondo and was dipped in primer.
Working on Skil’s: You can train a monkey to take one apart and reassemble, I have detailed data based on my son. At best, you will get a factory version Skil that was designed for shaving a door bottom. Some guys actually like to shape with them that way (too hardcore for me). Like CNC shapes and other raw things, Skil’s need to be tuned. The transition from the intended factory use to a shaping tool brings out the subtle differences in each one. I’ve spent 15 min. getting a shoe to slide right on some and 2 hours on others as an example. Further complicating reassembly are the various pullers/presses/jigs that the Skil factory used; everything depends on correct alignments. If there is any damage to be repaired or something that doesn’t work right, it’s then a matter of ability/time/tools/parts.
Sorry for this long dissertation, but needed to clarify what Skil’s are as of 2021. So the only Skil’s in “working condition” are really ones that were recently overhauled or restored. Working condition to me literally means ready to work; one that I would comfortably give to a shaper that’s done 30K+ with a Skil.
Talk about WORDS OF WISDOM ! The above should be required reading for would be shaper/Skil100 owners. I still have, and use, my 1964 5.5amp Skil 100, bought new in Feb. 1964, for the princly sum of $150 dollars. It still has the ‘‘clicker’’ detent intact, as does my 7.5 amp Short bed. I like the detent, and have always been comfortable with it. During my shaping ‘‘career’’ I’ve shaped no less than 8500 boards, and no more than 10,000 boards. It just never occurred to me to keep count, back then. I backed into the numbers , based on how much money I was making during those years. I for one, think of PeteC as a national treasure, for the Swaylock’s / surfboard shaping community. Thanks for being there Pete. Access to your skill and knowledge, has been a Godsend, to those of us that use and treasure these vintage tools.
Hi, my name is Doc, and I’m a tool junkie since The Old Man gave me a hammer and something to do with it. and so I appreciate something like
Good Skil’s:
(much, essentially Skil 101)
Sorry for this long dissertation, but needed to clarify what Skil’s are as of 2021. So the only Skil’s in “working condition” are really ones that were recently overhauled or restored. Working condition to me literally means ready to work; one that I would comfortably give to a shaper that’s done 30K+ with a Skil.
Ye gods, don’t be sorry, I’ll echo Bill , marvellous, and if you’re more a Rockwell 653 fan like me it’s still extremely good choice of, care of and feeding of information, and while this is aimed at Skils I’d call it applicable to pretty much any power planer and to older power tools in general.
May I suggest to the moderators that this post be made a ‘sticky’ or similar? Say, part of the FAQ?
doc…
What’s a typical price these days for a Skil 100 in working condition?
I saw one for sale and I’m just curious if the seller is asking a reasonable amount for it.
I paid just under 300$ on Ebay a 3-4 years ago during one of the ‘runs’ on them. An example from the Midwest: early Type 1, used for carpentry, ugly painted orange, long base. Draws 2.9 amps. I have not had Pete C. work on it but I have had the pleasure of talking to him on the phone. I got the blades sharpened by our tool and die guy and fitted it out with a custom dust collection chute and eventually got the ‘turbo’ chute from BB30’s buddy in Hawai’i. It’s part of a stable of 4 planers and I have two ‘lesser’ ones (HF with a filled and filed base and a Ryobi with the Newleaf faucet stem depth control) that I’d rather use on EPS and a Montgomery Wards PowerKraft that will probably never see foam. The HF gets used on boats too, foiling rudder blades and beveling pieces needing to fit up to the curves of the hull.
He doesn’t really want to know. He’s just yankin’ chains. For such a genius expert on all things Surf; If he doesn’t have an idea what they’re worth, check his pulse and I Q.