Skil 100 Armature Bearing

Thanks McDing, I finally found an answer on page 20something of my search that wasn't "send it to petec." Super thankful for all of his words of wisdom (and everyone, really) on this website. Here's the solution, with some work left up to the imagination. Drilling holes it is!

petec wrote:

If either rear-most bearings are stuck, you have to drill two small holes from the outside and use a punch to knock them out (cutter or motor sides).  Not for amateurs.  If they're stuck to the shafts, you need to use a bearing separator first to get enough space for the jaws of the puller to get under the bearings.  I've never seen a separator or puller that works on these bearing sizes without considerable modifications.  If you don't know what a gear puller is, well you shouldn't be attempting to do this yourself.  And never spray any penetrating lubricant near the motor to try a free up rusted or stuck parts.  Old tech motor brushes spark like hell and will ignite oils and such, and then you have a flamin' Skil.

The new bearings are pressed on both shafts for the rear ones, and into the cover plates for the outer ones (arbor press, not a hammer).  If a bearing doesn't fit tightly in a cover plate, then it has been spun-out and you need a new plate.  Same with the rear ones; if the motor armature or cutter head with bearing slips in with no resistance,  the housings are gone. If you assemble it anyway, the cutter or armature will wobble and vibrate and the belt will track all crazy.  I've seen Skil's with these problems for sale with the loose bearings epoxied in. They still run funny and an experienced user can tell.

Diamond,

Relative to the bearing, where did you try to drill the holes? Did you aim for the inner track, outer track, or in the middle in the races? I was planning on drilling two 1/8" holes (one on either side of the axle in the directions of the brush housings) and using a blunt tipped punch.