I designed this 6’2" x 19.8" x 2.8" two years ago, pics below. I wanted to be able to launch my 49 year old body into walled-up beach breaks. You warned me that it might be too much because my skills were beginner and I didnt listen. Of course I couldnt paddle it or stand up so I hung it from the ceiling instead. I surfed a ton after that on a 6’9 egg and finally mustered up enough courage to try it again. With good position and a late drop, I can ride it up and down the face a bit which Im proud of, but my wave count is still low. I miss alot of them because my feet aren’t landing where I want after pop-up and it just turns far too quickly. How would you make it easier to ride?
My observations are that (1) it’s foiled too much which causes it to tilt from side to side, (2) it would feel more stable with thruster setup as opposed to quads, (3) more width in the nose and tail would help stabailize it, (4) less thickness overall would put my feet closer to the water, making it feel more stable, (5) lower the entry rocker so its not pushing as much water, so the paddle in will be faster
There aren’t any big problems with the board design or fin setup. You wanted a board that would handle those conditions and which would perform. That design will do those things. Depending on your stature a little more length might be helpful but the design itself is solid. You just need to learn how to surf it, which basically applies to all board designs which are new-to-you. Smaller board = less required input to make it turn, so step more lightly. Smaller board = more work to get to the wave and then get into the wave.
If you thin the board out you’ll get less float. If you flatten the rocker you’ll get less leeway on your drops and transitions when surfing in more steep conditions. If you widen the nose you’ll have to paddle further into the wave in order to catch it - that means having to take another stroke or two and then having less time to pop up. If you add length you will reduce nimbleness. There are no freebies in surfboard design. Every benefit has a cost.
As far as this board is concerned my advice is that you spend more time on it. You haven’t yet come to an understanding of what this board will and won’t do or what inputs will work best for you. Within reason, every board has its sweet spot. Maybe for you the best conditions for getting the most from the board might be in smaller dumpy conditions where you’re not going to get the wave anyway unless you’re already in position. Like maybe a low-tide beach break that tops out at chest high.
Learn the lessons this board has to teach you WRT your stance and foot positioning, your inputs, how you approach a sectioning wave, taking off diagonally on the face instead of going for the bottom turn, etc. If you have been doing longer 2+1s then MAYBE going into a shorter quad was a step too far for you. MAYBE a smaller 2+1 would provide a more natural step in your progression.
Wait, are you saying I cant just become a better surfer by building another board? Horse apples! :0
Anyway, you again stepped in at the right moment, as I pulled a blade out to hack off my front fins. I’ll take both your advice actually. I’ll ride that little bastard again once I can shed off this neoprene, and then I’ll hack the fins off later.