Tint and pre-install futures fin resin spillover

Hey all, I’ve already set my futures fin boxes in my blank and while setting them had a little resin spill over the boxes which I wiped with a squeegee. I left a little more resin around the boxes than I would’ve liked (some parts of the foam around the box are completely resined over). My question is will this spill over affect the tint I intend to add to the lam coat, and therefore require me to sand it off before lam?

P.s., tried searching for similar issues but didn’t find exact issue at hand. First post!

Post a pic or two;  But remember a spoken rule.  First color to hit the blank wins.  In this case it’s clear, but it still wins.  Yeah it will show and look sloppy.   In my opinion tint over a Future box looks crappy.  So I install my Futures boxes after the lam.   A good way to go is to lam and tint the blank and then install colored Futures boxes that will complement your color scheme.  Otherwise white is always a nice contrast on a tinted board.  Some guys take the extra step of painting the exposed foam on the shallow cut that shows thru the slots.  A couple of 4oz. football patches(one slightly larger than the other) over the box and then hotcoat.  PS-- If you sand the foam;  you will open up another whole can of worms.

As McDing said, don’t try to sand it out.   I’ve always taped around my routed cavities before installing the boxes (just in case), but if I did get spillage I’d consider taping the rails off and doing a cheater coat (in clear) on the entire bottom.   Or maybe doing a separate deckpatch in clear before proceeding to the main lamination.   Then the tinted lamination going over that will at least have a more uniform level of saturation.  

You could also consider the merits of skipping the tint on this one.    In my opinion, laminating with opaque and especially tints is an advanced glassing skill that is dependent on everything going perfectly.   No noticable flaws in the shape or finish of the blank, no flaws in your mixing or spreading techniques and no flaws in sanding and finishing the glass job.  It would not be uncommon for a shaper to start out planning for a board to be glassed in a tint only to backtrack and revert to doing it in a clear or an airbrush or an opaque as a result of a flaw occurring during the shaping or finish of the blank. An unsightly bubble or bubble pattern in the foam itself, a minor rail ding in handling, etc.   

If you can’t wrap a rail without doing any relief cuts other than at the actual corners then you’re probably not ready to do a tint.   

  Tints in particular will make every imperfection stand out.   Even an opaque is easier to do well.   Others may disagree but I consider a clean no-pinline cutlap in a tint to be the highest expression of glassing craftsmanship.   A worthy goal of which to aspire and to work towards, not a basic skill that we should be considering among our defaults.   

Thanks, I think I read another one of your posts suggesting to route after lam. Definitely will try that next time to avoid this issue.

Thanks for the response. I think I’m going to have to stick with clear on this one after all.

If you can’t wrap a rail without doing any relief cuts other than at the actual corners then you’re probably not ready to do a tint.  

Woah, good point, I hadn’t even considered that.

Yes!  Definitely an “advanced” technique.  I have never understood why guys on their first board want to attempt to do a shape or color work that is usually only done by an experienced shaper or glasser.

I’ve done this various times. It probably depends what color you’re doing and what look you’re going for. I didn’t matter in the slightest in most of mine because they’re all very resin swirl, tint and pigment mix grunge style. What I did was very carefully try to flatten and smooth them because I was worried about having a lump there when trying to glass. If you’re trying for the pristine single color tint that’s quite transparent you might see it, but it also might be the case that it’s a 5ft paint job so to speak.

I’ve done this various times. It probably depends what color you’re doing and what look you’re going for. I didn’t matter in the slightest in most of mine because they’re all very resin swirl, tint and pigment mix grunge style. What I did was very carefully try to flatten and smooth them because I was worried about having a lump there when trying to glass. If you’re trying for the pristine single color tint that’s quite transparent you might see it, but it also might be the case that it’s a 5ft paint job so to speak.