The board didn't look bad before, and now it looks better. How are you feeling about it right now?
It is fantastic! to ride your first board is just a magic moment.
..... just got a 9'1 marko eps blank..... lets see what I do with it
I think I will work a bit more on the rail at the nose.......... it still feels a bit square
Okay, but as you did in your latest round of adjustments, you want to continue to use a light hand as you further refine your shape. Remember, we already told you that you could have sent the board to the glasser the way it was and the board would surf. So you don't actually NEED to do anything more than you've already done. At this point we're just talking about optional refinements that you can add but don't necessarily need to add.
This type of teardop shape template that you're using comes directly from longboards so those are the bottom and rail profiles you want to be looking at. And the reason I include the bottom in this comment is because the board engages with the wave from the bottom to the rail - they work in combination, not isolation. Fin setup figure heavily into these combinations, too.
From where you're at now there are several ways you could go, it just depends on how you intend to surf the board. If you want to set the board up with a fin cluster and surf the board actively then the bottoms and rails they use on the high performance longboards will make for a more lively ride that will quickly transition from side to side. These will ride more on top of the wave rather than sinking into it.
Here's a screenshot of a high performance longboard nose (Todd Proctor) that some of the HPLB shapers use. Walden's Magic is probably the most widely recognized example. This particular board appears to have a concave along the entire bottom up to the nose and a 3" wide chine (bevel) transitioning to the thinner rail section. I don't recommend you try doing the concave on your board because you're just starting out, but you could use a more subtle chine to bring the thickness from your bottom into a thinner and more responsive rail. Some of these shapers run that bevel all the way back to their tails. Aside from the concave, flat to chine to rails would work on your shape if that's how you want to surf the board.
On the other end of the bottom-to-rail spectrum is using a combination of belly transitioning directly into the rail. Here are a couple pics of how Greg Liddle does his bottoms - it's an extreme example but if you tone it down you'll still get some of the effect. These will ride lower in the water and provide a smoother rail-to-rail, but it will also be a bit slower going rail to rail than the bottoms that are designed to ride higher.
You could go from flat to roll to rail with your board.
The other thing I should mention is that using chines and roll in your bottoms will act as control surfaces. So from where you're at right now I'd recommend using them sparingly in your first few boards. A little goes a long way and it's easy to overdo them without adding the other elements these shapers use in their boards to make them ride as intended. Backyarders are notorious for overdoing these little "upgrades", so you don't want to be that guy. Far better to do nothing more than to do too much.
"Far better to do nothing more than to do too much." So true. Bill Stewart took the Chine Rail HPLB (High Performance LongBoard) to da max with the Hydro Hull and then what I consider the "Best of the Best" in that genre; the Jeff Kramer Model. He did this beginning in the 80's and on thru the 2000's. Stewart sometimes acts similar to a couple of guys we hear from here at Sways from time to time. He has a tendency to take credit for everything Surfing. And although he did not come up with the "Hydro"; He certainly can take credit for its refinement and application to longboards.
That which can be assorted without evidence was read in an illegal magazine.
6oz bottom + 6 + 6 deck lamination, quite happy to be the first time.
I think that board will surf. It looks better than my first board, and it surfed.
You've done well. You should be happy with it..
One step further!
Now it will be patience and sand paper......