Concept of a unconventional short nose-rider

You'll want a lot of float and glide.  Think wide, think thick, think about a fin that will hold and like above think about tail rocker.  

From the above we can consider it would take to get a super short length to noseride.  It might look something like this:

 - an OG Simmons template with the wide point way back behind center.  This will straighten out the rail line to the front.  When you don't have a lot of length then you need all the straight you can get in the rail line.  Or maybe a Scorpion-type template (see how straight the rail line in the middle is) but with a straighter rear quarter.  

- wide tail block; see above; 

- the tail flip might not be necessary or even desireable due to the short length.    

- Tall fin(s) set way back to provide hold, not necessarily for drive.  After all, you're not going to be standing over their fins and working them for drive; you're going to be up front where you have no leverage over the fins.   For hold, maybe consider mounting twins, one at each corner and hanging over the back. Perhaps with a pivot template, a fatter tip and no flex.   Those won't let go when you're up front 

- a flat rocker throughout with a light-to-moderate convex bottom and some vee in the tail for when you do need to turn.  MAYBE even some channels through the middle to add to the drive and hold.  

- 10/90 rails in the nose transitioning to 50/50 rails in the tail to stick to the wave face instead of releasing

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The thing to remember about such a project is that it still lacks the length (the surface area) that it takes to paddle fast so you won't be able to run down a knee-high wave from 50ft away with that fem-boi bicycle leg paddling motion.  When you're on a short length you will need to already be in the right spot to catch that wave.  That lazy longboard paddling style isn't going to cut it; you're going to have to paddle like the kids on the pro-tour on their little 25L shortboards in order to catch that kind of wave.  That length and rocker will also require a much more accurate level of timing to pop up; that fat ass will pick the energy of the wave up every abruptly and you won't have any margin for error. 

And lastly, the short length with straigher rail line will detract from the smooth graceful lines that a longboard draws, and if you try to cure that by adding curve back into the template that will come at the expense of drive and speed from the rail line.   

So don't get your hopes up about this project turning out to be the short board that paddles like a longboard because that can't happen.   

I wanted to answer you the same, but I saw this answer. I think you should take a closer look at him. Everything is clearly described here. I totally agree

[quote = gdaddy]

I think the smart way to approach this is to start with longboards, which are specifically built for know riding and run backwards. The traditional rider isn't just long. These boards tend to separate other elements.

Take Takayama's Model-T, for example. This board has

- wide rectangular tail block. The thick rear end provides a straighter rail line across the rear quarter and provides ample surface area to support the rear of the board as a counterweight when loaded from the front.

- a large articulated stabilizer that is mounted far back on the tail block, the tip protruding beyond the tail block. This keeps the fin engaged when the rider walks in front.

- some kind of kick in the tail rocker. Again to keep the fin engaged when the board is front-balanced

- a long, straight rail line that maximizes how much the rail engages the face when loading the board.

- a rocker with a flat nose, which also increases the surface area involved when loading the board

- and finally, the nasal concavity, which some people claim, actually acts as a brake, slowing the board down due to all the traction it receives from the "all motor" rail line and flat nose rocker of these designs.

Consider what you are trying to do with a one-trick bow rider design. If you've moved from rowing to bow-riding, then you don't want to dodge the sweet point of the wave, especially when the wave is slow due to lack of energy to begin with. You really want the board to match the speed of the wave. The torque is greater than the horsepower. You want to maximize tip time and reduce turning frequency.

with&Resrect Leo_Opolain, employee tracking

You may be 100% right on that one.  If so, a shorter length might actually call for more flip in the tail, not less.     Gene Cooper (MR Gene Cooper, to me) was doing a radical kinked tail on some of his longboards.   He commented on this forum a while back about that with some observations about the limitations with that design but I don't recall exactly what he said.