Seeking advice on finishes on foam boards. Many recommended on my last post to not attempt polishing epoxy, but to clear coat it/varnish it.
I don’t want that amber tint from varnish being it’s white foam, but my local shop recommended epifanes clear high gloss. It’s base is rung oil though and it’s only 1 part. I really want ultra clear and a 2 part for durability. I know ultra clear won’t have the same UV properties but I’m good with that being if they aren’t in the water they’re bagged up.
I really just want a nice beautiful shiny finish.
ive used interlux perfection plus on wood ones with good results, but can’t source locally so thought I’d ask.
Two coats of Behr Floor and Tile Sealer. 100% dry between coats, wiped on with a sponge, no drips on the bottom edge of the rail. Burnish with a maroon 3M Scotchbrite pad, using an orbital sander. Satin finish. There is also a “Wet Look” gloss Behr. Both can be done with Wet n Dry and polish if desired.
You can cover it with an epoxy gloss, let fully cure and sand and polish up to mirror finish.
It can be a bit frustrating because of fish eyes and pinholes. Let epoxy hard cure then sand with smaller increase between grits than poly up to 1000 and it polish nicely. Certainly one of stronger finish
You can do same with poly finish resin, faster, cheaper, not as dings strengh but better UV protection. Many epoxy boards (surf, sup, kite,…) are finished like this…
Then you can go with varnish, car varnish are water clear. From sponged 1 component acryl to spraid 2 components PU “hard coat” you can obtain perfect results. PU 2 components give Ultimate scratch resistance and UV protection but better to do it in a paint car cabinet.
I used unthinned 2K PU crystal clear boat vernish. If you do not have a spray gun (then slightly thinned) you can use a regular brush, followed by a foam brush. The results are quite good for me. This stuff needs very fast work, better 2 people 1 with brush, second follows with foam brush to get rid of tiniest bubbles left from brushing. It also possible to work smaler areas, start with tail to half, brushing, foam brushing, the half to front… Make one side, top or bottom, wait one day, the second (time depends on brand too, it is tough dry very fast but depending on the overpaint time, you better wait a little. Mine works perfect after 1 day, it still connects at the rails with the other layer. After completing, it good to let it cure some days, acc. to specs. Mine hardens completely after 14 days at given temperatures.
Result is a very clear, high gloss finish with very good UV protection and high scratch resistance. I never try to polish epoxy again, if I want matte, I sand the PU with 400 grid, wet… The best thing is, it seals even the tiniest pinhole, else almost unseeable… Since I use it, my HWS never failed…
The only disadvantage, 1l is approx 30€, but its worth it. I cannot recomment a brand, I got mine unlabeled from my epoxy supplier here in Europe…