Hey legends,
setting up some extraction pipe work using pvc between vac and flexi hose on planer, and wondered those who have done this in PVC, did you glue your joins or was the tight push together fit of the PVC sufficient?
Did I also see somewhere that someone had left a relevant PVC join ‘unglued’ to allow it to swivel thus helping to keep extraction system tucked out of the way, whilst both in use and when not in use?
Cheers All,
Marty
I don’t fall into the “legends” category, but I made this dust collection system recently with good results. I put the shop vac hose directly in the top of the bucket, then ran pvc pipe through the roof of my shed and attached the slinky hose to the pvc pipe. All of my connections are press fit (no glues) and it works great.
That appears to be a great system. There is an update on that video that reinforces the buckets and stabilizes them. Like the idea of using a hooked blade on an oscillating tool. Never thought about that one. Good stuff Ryan.
I think I may have posted my swing system on another thread, don’t have the time to search it out right now. What I did want to mention is that I drilled a small hole between a fitting and the pipe and inserted a screw in the joints that I didn’t want to swivel. This keeps everything tight, and if you want to modify it after a while it makes it easier to trouble shoot what you want to change. I also highly recommend that you run a ground wire from the hose/pvc joint by the plainer all the way thru (inside) to the vac and then to ground. This will eliminate static build-up which can be a problem and eliminate any kind of fire/explosion problem. (anybody that does woodworking uses this approach) You can use #14-16 bare solid copper wire which works quite fine. Hope this helps, just my 2c…
Surfteach, so no glue just drill/screw joints you dont want moving? Leaving the last joint (holding the boom arm out over the blank) untouched to allow it to rotate?
I saw an interesting video on you tube regards to static build up in pvc and explosion potential, which debunked a lot of the theory behind running earth wires mainly due to pvc being an insulator.
In you tube the video is titled:
Grounding/Earthing a PVC Dust Extraction System! Time to End the Nonsense!!
the channel is : Man in Shed
(sorry, not sure how to post link)
I saw the updated video as well. Once it started getting warm in the shed, I had the issue of the bucket collapsing. The extra bucket on the base resolved that issue. And since I have the pvc intake pipe bracketed to the wall/ceiling, it keeps it from tipping. The hooked blades on the oscillating tool worked wonders. I did have to shave down the inner lip pretty significantly though. Not sure if its a regional manufacturing difference or an updated version, but my homer buckets had a slightly different mold pattern at the top than the ones in the video.
Salty, you are correct! I used small (#10 x 3/4") self tapping sheet metal screws and I did pre-drill the holes. I have a swivel board that is hinged to the wall and carries the overhead pvc pipe. The connection is un-screwed at the wall so it swivels quietly. I have used the same plumbing system for PU blanks, EPS blanks, and my table saw and dimentional planer for wood so I have noticed a difference in flow with the wire. EPS dust seems to pick up static charges everywhere and in a small shop like mine becomes a real pain in the butt. That’s what I did, I’ll check out that vid. Just my 2c…
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No-glue plastic pipe joints are fine for vacuum but not pressure. For vacuum, you actually need small intake leaks (like tapping screws) along a run to avoid occulsion spikes. For vacuum pipe, I recommend electric PVC conduit over water types. The electrical has larger bends (for snaking wires inside) so the flow is better.