Best way to remove? So far have used Dremel with triangle pads, chisel, box cutter. I think the resin has seeped down into the finbox bottom. In which case I’ll have to cut out the boxes completely? Trying to save the board - love the shape.
Dang. What kinda resin? If epoxy maybe put some acetone carefully into the box so it eats the resin away.not sure best way just a thought
Poly resin. Will acetone work with poly too?
Not sure,I don’t use poly or acetone but know it eats epoxy.
I just read acetone will eat the fin box if sits in there to long. Maybe wait a little for some other advice
good luck
How are you with a drill and tap?
Cut off fins flush
8-32 bottom tap, pan head screws maybee 10-24. More bire
Leverage
Angles.
Homemade slide hammer.
If that fails drill to swiss cheese and a fine chisel.
Or drill through fin above base.
Insert pins.
Wedges between protected hull and pins.
Poly resin is sht for adhesion, particularly on an unprepped (polished) surface. Just keep at it. I’m sure you’ll get it.
Uh oh.
Couple of things. First, what damage have you done so far? I’m afraid you may have cracked said boxes already, whacking away with the chisel and what have you. A chisel is a wedge and unless you drilled or otherwise cut out any fin base material ( as was mentioned: ‘make it swiss cheese’) then you’re exerting a lot of pressure that can very well crack said fin box.
Look very carefully, magnifying glass would help. Push the knife blade in where you had the chisel to give it a little pressure and see if there’s any cracks.The corners of the slot are most likely to have 'em.If there are, replace the boxes.
Okay, if you got lucky, first you want to get that material out.Cut the fin flush with the bottom of the board. Carefully. My tool of choice then would be a drill with a sharp brad point bit that’s just under the size of the slot in the box. Rig something (they make stop collars with set screws for this sort of thing) to limit your depth, very carefully drill lots of holes. If you want, first drill smaller pilot holes exactly down the middle, spaced a little closer than the diameter of your bigger drill bit, so your bigger ones can overlap a bit, again being very careful about the depth.
The brad point tends to do a flatter bottomed hole than a common high speed bit. This will save you some work later.
Okay, you got those holes drilled. Sharpen your chisel, you want to put it vertical right at the seam, fin vs box, flat side to the box so the fin material gets the wedge effect… Gently tapping, bust the resin and fin material free from the side of the box, work your way along. I would cross my fingers and grab those bits of fin material with pliers and pull and hope it gets most of the resin off the bottom of the box.Get all you can. With the end of a flat file ( it’s hard steel) do your best to scrape out what’s left. Resin typically doesn’t stick that well to smooth plastic, you may get lucky.
Keep at it until a new fin goes in okay. Recheck for cracks.
It’s a lot of work and success isn’t certain. Personally, I’d change the boxes and call it a day…
Sorry about that
hope that’s of use
doc…
Your kidding, right?? “Will acetone work with Poly too?” Since the resin is fresh, yes Acetone may soften the resin enough to break the bond. Put a little down in the slot and let it soak before you try to “snap” it loose from side to side.
Closing the loop… those who said to just keep at it were right. Just kept wiggling and using chisel/boxcutter to dislodge and applying pressure and was able to knock them both loose.