6’-11" x 20-1/2" x 2-5/8". Single concave, full rail hard edges, “timber tech” construction (4oz/vneer/40z deck - veneer/4oz bottom).
Paua abalone/ walnut inlay for logo. I also tried to accentuate side fin with a grain feature when I bookmatched the veneers.
Kind of piggish outline with wide point at center and more area in the tail. Allows me to stand further back. Board goes GREAT! Fast (relaxed rocker 4" nose, 2-1/4" tail)
Beautiful work as usual. You should post a build thread. Or at least show us how you did your inlays.
Bitchen.
That, my friend, is some of the finest work I’ve seen!! Hats off to ya!
yeah I’m curious on the build to. Mainly the veneer. Do you have to vacuum seal that?
Jeff
As always, masterfully done. I wonder what we would see if you were into custom cars?
In a word, IMPRESSIVE !
Wow, that is gorgeous!
Beautiful! Bookended perfect.
Howzit Jeff,
Gorgeous work. Love the bookmatching and the logo work. For sure would love to see any pics of the process. Your workmanship is ridiculously out of my league.
Thanks. Sorry no process pics this time.
I’ve kind of settled on Greg Leohr’s “timbertech” schedule- 1.5lb EPS blank, 4/veneer/4 deck and veneer/4 bottom. Except this time I had a 1.9lb blank with a stringer. I wanted a 1.5lb stringerless but it was considered a “custom” blank and they wanted to charge more. I couldn’t swallow that. It is less work and less materials- no need to cut the blank and glue up a stringer. Why would it cost more? But I think the board weighed about a pound more than I planned (8 lbs).
I had one hiccup when the veneer on the deck at nose flip bubbled. It’s always a problem area because of the compound curves. In the past I’ve had the veneer split. This time I sprayed veneer softener in the area and when I pulled it out of the bag it had two long bubbles. You can see in the deck photos the dark outlines of the patches. I’ve had veneer bubbles before that I was able to split and get resin under with a syringe or painting spatula. These were different in that they were filled with resin. I had to sand them flat and then use a dremel to carefully rout out the resin and then glue in a patch. I made the sides of the cut and the patch pieces squared. In the future I would make them bevelled. I think the dark glue line would be less apparent.
Last week I surfed it three days straight at a fun sandbar and it goes great.
ps Tom, if I were cutomizing cars my first project would be a VW Vanagon Syncro (4WD), with a Porsche flat 6 turbo engine…
pps. One thing I love about single fin boxes is the clean leash attachment.
Hi beautiful work! For dry wood at nose I find that with a razor cut each side lengthwise at around 2" from center about 1/2 foot long with good masking tape over all over this 1/2 foot end help clean venneer gluing compound nose surface. Sometimes reduce rail cover a little help a lot to reduce tension in wood too. Alternative tech where you glue and lam fiber on wood flat on a table then you lay on blank work better on compound surface but need space.
Always seems there is a huge weight difference between 1.5 stringerless bloc cut eps (that is less than 1.5 most of time) and 1.9 stringered molded that is more than 1.9+stringer and glue weight. With stronger skin lighter more elastic foam finally work better against dents and most of time board feel better. For sure 1.25 to 1.5 bloc cut foam must be far cheaper.
