I have a stock hitachi that someone lent me, can I use this thing as is? Or am I just gonna fuck up the blank?
not sure if he’d be super stoked if I started grinding the shoe down…
jake
Its fine the way it is. As long as the blades are sharp you’re good to go.
It depends on the rocker of the board you are shaping.
Any bottom rocker is fine. A low rocker longboat is fine. You’re going to have a little trouble with the deck near the nose, where the rocker flips up.
Turn the planer to a 45° angle to the stringer. Then if u need more, switch to a sure form.
It depends on the rocker of the board you are shaping.
Any bottom rocker is fine. A low rocker longboat is fine. You’re going to have a little trouble with the deck near the nose, where the rocker flips up.
Turn the planer to a 45° angle to the stringer. Then if u need more, switch to a sure form.
It depends on the rocker of the board you are shaping.
Any bottom rocker is fine. A low rocker longboat is fine. You’re going to have a little trouble with the deck near the nose, where the rocker flips up.
Turn the planer to a 45° angle to the stringer. Then if u need more, switch to a sure form.
Mahalos!
Mahalos!
For skinning and thickness work no, but why you need to modify it will become apparent once you attempt railbanding. Grinding down the shoe has nothing to do with modifying a planer for on-the-fly adjustment, it’s about the whole depth control mechanism cutting 0 -1/8" within about 90 degrees rotation. Stick with turning the rails by hand (surform or paper) until you have enough boards lined up and that process isn’t going to work anymore.
If you follow Kazuma on Instagram he has a video where he takes a bone stock planer and demonstrates how to do it. I probably made 8 or 10 boards with a stock Ryobi before I had my first Skil 100.
Shape a couple with it and you’ll most likely want to at least modify the depth adjustment.
Hi Pete,
I’ve had good results on my shaping, and I’ve never used a modified planer or a skil. My Rockwell can do it, but I just don’t.
For a Garage hack like me, it’s sort if like driving while texting. I still need to keep my mind on one thing.
Adjusting on the fly gets the same results as multiple passes.
Fist pass is say 2 feet long. Second pass is 3 feet long. Third pass is 4 feet long. All set at 1/16 th inch. That’s going to end up with the same shape as 1 adjusted pass feathering from 1/16th to 3/16th to 1/16th. It just takes 3 times longer.
So if you’re shaping 5 boards a day, that matters. If you’re shaping 1 board a year, not as much.
That’s the good and bad of my nylon builds. They last forever, so I don’t get to make as many boards!
I don’t know why you’d say that. I’ve seen your work. It’s as good as, or better than, most professionals! You are one of very few on here, who’s work I admire.
At one board per year you could shape the whole thing with a piece of Indasa and a sanding block.