Won’t go to in depth as my build process is pretty similar to most builds. 2 layers 6 oz on bottom and 3 layers of 6 oz on deck. Resin research epoxy with transparent tint. 2 fill coats (always use first fill coat as my ‘leveling coat’). Doing a good pinline is definitely an art that takes lots of practice. Im still working on that 
I also do my cutlap just cutting with blade straight down. The zipper / bent blade method makes me litttle nervous about delam if I pull to much up on tape edge.
I wanted more of a nose rider feel. But it has a little more nose rocker than I wanted. When I ordered blanks in the beginning of the year, it was SLIM PICKINGS.
For a noserider a lot of guys flip the blank and put the kick in the tail.
Board looks beautiful and I predict you will have a blast riding it!
That pic with the blank on floor looks like you have hardly to much nose rocker. The others aren’t telegraphing any more than my bing silver spoon.
Holy moly, where did you get that industrial-grade fin box jig?
Just so I understand, you mean the nose (outline template) would go on the tail of the blank? Never would have thought of that. Definitely would give a lower nose rocker and the tail kick you mention. Just have to make sure the tail area of the blank is wide enough for the nose width?
its a Futures jig plate for there finbox but can be used for most longboard finboxes. Much better Than my old one with wood scabs glued together.
I just looked up the silver spoon and that is a beauty. Do you by chance know what the nose and tail rocker are?
Yes.
Yeah, Futures “Strong Box” jig. Manufactured for Futures Strong Box which has a flange. You need the Futures bit too. The jig can be adjusted to rout Bahne/Fins Unlimited boxes as well. The only drawback is that if you do both boxes you have to reset the jig all the time. So it’s better to just do one or the other. Or have jigs for both. The Futures Strong Box is definitely a selling point if you are doing production.
Whale---- Very nice board. Like the yellow tint and the pin line. Should be a great rider and I am sure it will nose ride better than you think. Like those Futures boxes. Good shape. Especially like the outline. Sweet square tail and full nose. Lowel
Hi Lowel,
Thanks for the feedback and taking time to look through the pictures. I ws very happy with the outline. Pinline was pretty good but definitely the area I need to focus on.
Ive been using the futures one shot for a couple years now. I always used ofishll and had to find a new system when ofishll went out. Pricey to get the setup but very strong system.
i was watching the malibu longboard last week and those board tails are crazy. Looks like they chopped the last foot off.
What size tape people using for cutlaps? I typically use 1/2" and its hard to get the nose/tail but keeps a smooth curve throughout. This one i tried 1/8" and not sure it was the right choice. Makes curves easy but likes to wiggle around for the overall curve. It also seemed to make the cutting sloppier (not sure why). Tape seemed to want to push under the blade more.
everything you need to know about pinlines - and a lot you don’t - has been covered on this forum multiple times. The Search function should bring up hours of reading pleasure.
Keep doing it with 1/2" tape. Yes, it’s a bit touchy around abrupt curves but it will give you the most regular curves. Anything narrower will tend to wiggle, as you noted.
Hi Balsa, thanks for the input. Ill be starting up another board this winter and will be starting with the 1/2” tape as you mentioned. Ive made one board since this yellow one, but the cutlap came out nice and clean so skipped the pinline.
Do you have any preference where you start your pinline taping (nose vs tail vs mid)?
Usually starting at the nose but that’s just me. Do what’s comfortable with you, I don’t think it’s that important. Thinking of it, I start at the nose on the left side of the board, but then I will start from the tail on the other side.