gregloehr wrote: Thatks Mr J. We are cycloaliphatic based which is generally safer to use. But your absolutely right about being safe. Keep it off your skin, be VERY careful not to touch contaminated solvents and work in well ventilated areas.
Thatks Mr J. We are cycloaliphatic based which is generally safer to use. But your absolutely right about being safe. Keep it off your skin, be VERY careful not to touch contaminated solvents and work in well ventilated areas.
no worries Greg, your emphasis on a low allergy resin was important to me due to my bad reaction to system 3. (for those who don't know my history I was able to continue with RR despite reacting to system 3).
However would you say my following asessment of your quote is a fair comment?
1. RR is di-amine based and has a proven track record over years as a safe low sensetizer
2. we know that aliphatic resins are sensetizers, so those concerned about sensetivity should avoid them.
3. Kwik Kick is a new "cycloaliphatic" resin which you believe to be safe, but it is a new product and therefore has yet to achieve a proven track record.
therefore those users very concerned with the allergy aspect should stick with RR for now at least?
We are very familiar with the chemicals involved here. I'm not too concerned at this point, in fact I'd have to state that KK is probably even safer than 2000/2100. It should be according to what we know. Knowing what you know and where your health has been, if I were you, I wouldn't change.
Perhaps we should add flavoring ....... anyone have a suggestion .... perhap coconut.
Soon in Oz.
I really never thought this would be possible ..... yea, 29 years now ......
It's a completely new system so it doesn't work with the other systems components. We still make and sell that though and always will.
Still corrosive .... sorry. Perhaps I still have more work to do ...
Justin has it on the truck now.
Good question Crafty. The regular system stays liquid longer and then takes longer to set. KK tends to begin to thicken right away ... or very soon after you pour it out. It wets the fabric nice and then begins to slow down so it's real important to get the stuff spread around right away so it'll soak. After it stops moving you can still move it with the sqeegee for a while which is nice. If everything is wet at a point about 4 or 5 minutes into the laminate then all your doing is moving the excess around to where you need it and since it won't flow anymore it's really easy to get the laminate right and not have those pesky draining issues.
Later on it becomes tacky and then it goes to this non tacky yet still plyable state. That's when it's OK to flip. It's still plyable so you can still pinch out bubbles in noses and tails. I always get bubbles in the square tail rails on shortboards. Drives me nuts. I've always had to sand those out and then fill the spots. Then sometimes after the extra work I'd get bubbles again on the second side. Now I just push the bubbles out with my thumb and I'm good. Rolling the laps at this stage was a real bonus we never intended but are real pleased by. No more sanding laps ....
Trimming laps at this non tacky state is really nice too. And there's a pretty good long window there so plenty of time. Back in poly days we used to have to pick up the boards with waxed paper to flip and do the trim. But this stuff is clean when you pick it up. And I trimmed laps pulled the tape and the rolled them down on one test board. Worked like a champ.
I really like it for hot coats. You have to get on it quick and get everything wet quick. I can do three sides at a time pretty easily. Maybe four. What I liked most was it does that same thing about not moving about 5 minutes in. So I get everything wet ASAP. I like to hot coat the first side without tape and run my finger along the edge to knock the drips off. With the regular stuff I would knock the drips, then come back a couple minutes later and knock the drips, and then again and yet again. With KK I knock the drips once and done. It also didn't drain off the deck rail so I got a cleaner sand without hitting weave there.
I think this stuff will take some getting used to like anything else. But in just our test boards we were able to figure out a number of new techniques to save time. And the strength ... we couldn't beleive it. To have that much better compression strength without being brittle ... very different stuff.
Not sure about the UK. We've already talked with Seabase ... I imagine when the next container goes they'll have some on it.