I've been working on a 6'4'' Fish, made from router cuts in cardboard that Mike Sheldrake, the inventor of this board design creates in his garage. This board is unique in the way its designed, its core materials, and that it is being built in the Marshall Islands. Ive had the board kit for over 3 months, waiting on supplies. Now that they are here I have spent a few solid days getting it to the glassing stage. A few pictures to show where its headed.
Im not the first person to built this board kit. One other person, Nick in New South Wales beat me to it. I am impressed.
http://www.sheldrake.net/cardboards/boards/fish_64/
There is a back story to my kit. It goes- Nick (the other Nick in New South Wales....doppleganger!), built this same board kit a few months back. He originally ordered the kit and had it mailed to his apartment complex in AU. It never made it to his doorstep. It was lost in the mail. Meanwhile Mike was in his lab, building up another kit for Nick in New South Wales. He sent it out, and soon enough the original kit landed back at Mikes doorstep. Mike posted the board on his site, by chance I saw this and bought it.
I began deciding on the supplies I'd need to build this thing. I ask Mike Sheldrake for a simple shopping list. Glass and resin was going to be the hardest, most challenging. I dont have a local board supplier who can ship a few bottles of resin over. Resin will have to come out by vessel, a barge that travels from Hawaii, to Guam, then to here. A long 2.5 month trip. I got the materials a week ago. Im almost finished. I start glassing today. I thought to myself would this be interesting for sways? I figured my audience would grab a beer and enjoy the experiences that I, a new builder- never shaped a single board would go through.
Sheldrake has explained that these kits are very durable, light weight and can be experimented on. Its a fairly "new" process, but has been done a few times in the past by others. Sheldrake has a short history on boards built out of cardboard years ago. But not well documented, and probably failed to catch on due to the lack of technology available at the time. Today computers are making that a possibility. I think Mike Sheldrake also has the patience of a saint. Building the pieces like a puzzle, hand numbering all of them (HUNDREDS) after they get cut out, making videos and how to guides. He's got the heart to do it. I spent less time building up the pieces than it took him cutting them, Im sure. About 2.5 hours or so to set all the pieces together. A few minor mistakes along the way, but all in all a simple process, it did require an extra pair of hands. Thanks to my co-worker Jeff!
To Mr. Sheldrake and all others...I hope I can post more builds from the Islands. Its extremely difficult to get materials here, which helps me get into a creative mode. I have a few ideas I will experiment on and eventually surf. This kit from cardboard makes it possible to ship a board practically anywhere. A serious plus. The other easy way is by HWS. Paul Jensen mailed out a kit and is here, waiting to be built. Another day.....
To put a spin on the build process I will attempt deliver a build that is very transluscent with the use of glass. So far these boards are frosty, but light travels through them well. I think my theory will work. We shall see.
Here's the pics of my build up. Slowly coming together. Thanks ;)
...and if you're doing a cardboard build, post pics here if you like....
I'm using dial-up. So, these shots will take me some time to post.
Heres the box when it arrived. Wooow! lol
Here's the board Nick in New South Wales built.
the box containing the fish kit.JPG
nicks board in new south wales.jpg
These are the stringers, all 10 of them. Not yet glued. I used Loktite brand superglue from the store, and some painters tape. Thats about all the gluing needed for these boards.
pulled out and tringers lined up.JPG
Sheldrake did a great job of numbering the pieces. Once I pulled the cut-outs from the box and glued them, everything else fell into place....well, sort of.
Nice dining room table build-up @ the Fire Station on Meck Island.
a few stringers glued.JPG
orienting the stringers, with Briley.JPG
The stringers had key cuts, resembling a skeleton key down them. Certain ones had to be lined up with the cross sectioned ribs. This is how you align everything properly. Once the grid pattern is layed out you begin to see the Fish come to Shape.
finding the key groves, lining them up with ribs.JPG
Stringers aligned, 1st set of ribs going on..JPG
When the cross sectioned ribs were done, this is what I ended up with. I had to trust the numbers, and go with it. Even though it looked odd.
I then had to slide the board (right side, the high side) down to even out the fish tails, or butt cracks.
the cantered board, looks funny at first. Later on it makes sense.JPG
board slides into place by pulling high end downward.JPG
Now to build up the side rails. This is the unique part o f this board. It provides little tiny cardboard fingers that hold the glass to form the rail. Very delicate process, but over all satisfying.
side rails going together.JPG
bottom front profile.JPG
side rails coming along.JPG
piecing the side rail ribs together.JPG
briley holding it on its side.JPG
Nick, This is really cool ! beats the crap out of milling coconut wood !!! you were lucky to get one of Mikes kits. That guys got some smarts to figure that out. Since I first saw these boards I have wanted to do them with balsa wood and wood veneer skins. But right now he has nothing avalible. I know what kind of CNC machine he used and I could aford to buy one but would have no idea how to write a program to do what he did. If we could combine my wood working with his computer and CNC skill we could really make magic !!! Oh well, Someday!!! You will have fun with the Paul Jensen board. Some times I miss Kwaj. Such a strange place !!! Do they still have the windsurfing club ? What kind of planes are they flying up to Meck. They were discussing discontinueing the Carbous. Are they still useing the UH-1 chopper?
im sure it is light... but how much does that core weigh? Please post pics of glassing procedures... extremely curious.
The boards holow core is complete. Here's a profile shot of the board. Im holding it up here. Whats neat, is that this board is very light weight, stirdy, and all the pieces hold quite snug.
very nice~.JPG
that is one sexy piece of cardboard!.JPG
Next I lay down a coat of RR epoxy, no glass. I delute the resin with Isopropyl rubbing Alcohol so it soaks into the honeycomb support structure. I want the resin the harden the top surface of the honeycomb structure. A good tool to use here is a sponge brush, or what I ended up using was a faux sheep skin polish pad for shining shoes. Kiwi Brand, and only cost about $1.50. The deluted resin worked well, although I poured enough to apply on 3 other boards all together.
*Notice the dark colored areas on the honeycomb pattern. Thats where Ive put resin down. Then notice dry light colored cardboard on the rail pieces. Those dont have epoxy which I will explain in a later step.
For even more fun, I went to a local shop on Kwajalein where the store owner, known as the Bali Lady, sells goods from her annual trips to Bali. I found a shell pendent neckelace that looked like it'd be cool to inlayed on the tail of the board. 20 bucks! Perfect fit too.
bottom epoxied and ready to go.JPG
Epoxied the top surfaces of the cardboard. Top of Deck and Bottom of Deck.JPG
Bling in place.JPG
The next step. MONOKOTE.
Tools: Background music, an iron with an old t-shirt covering the iron surface. Crank the heat up to YOWZA!
Side note: These shots were taken during an incorrect application of the Monokote. I did not realize this, but I was supposed to remove the top part of the film. When peeled off, the protected side is the heat reactive adhesive side. OOPS! I thought this was supposed to be easy, instead I kept ironing. 1 hour later i realized this. Damn! I peeled up the monokote,did it right.
My hypothosis. Monokote, normally used in model airplane construction, is fuel proof polyester film that will not yellow or deteriorate in time. It resists high temperatures over 300deg. When applied (correctly) it is "as tight as a drum" literally. I believe that this is what will give the glass coat a backing, thus creating a transparent look. I was affraid if I ironed the monokote straight onto the cardboard surface without applying deluted epoxy it would stick on there like scotch tape and cause delamination problems. This method should prevent that.
Just unroll the stuff, drape it over the side. Cut it to length, and peel off the adhesive backing. Flip the material onto the deck and iron away!
The side rails are left bare, and going back a step, I did not apply deluted epoxy to the rails becuase I want the resin to stick and suck to the cardboard during the glassing stage. Glassing over the rails directly should make for an interesting transition of clear board to frosted rails. Should hide my laps as well. Ive never glassed a board totally by myself and only one time before then.
monokote for the top and bottom.JPG
My iron with a t-shirt covering the surface. Monokote ready to apply.JPG
45 minutes later, and alot of heat...still wrong.JPG
Brought the board home from work. Worked on it a bit, and still wrong..JPG
Well, I took the board home from work that night. I finished both sides in about an hour. Its not perfectly clean along the edges but it looks so much better. You can tell that the reflection of light is even better.. I was tired, and had to spend quality time with the wife. I watched Distract 9 while entertaining myself with Monokote.
Now its right!.JPG
Wood-O
We take a catamaran up to Meck these days. The Uh-1 are still operational. Although slated to be retired next year. I still want to do a friggin coconut tree board. I got dibs on that build!!!!
The build process for me right now is difficult becuase I have to move all my tools from place to place by hand. I dont have a shop, and Im using the safe places at work to hide and build most everything. Hauling everything on my bike is hard. I miss having a truck. Kwaj is an island full of fit and happy people who dont think about fueling up thier cars, ever. I ride my bike or walk to most places I want to go.
Today I worked on this posting, the weather is crap. We have Typhoon weather in the Pacific and are creating some big swells, but very choppy and windy. Its very humid right now and dont want to risk warping my project. Perhaps tomorrow will be better...Im anxious to get started.
The fins are going to be a test of my abilities. Im going to us Lokbox fins. Ive been told to go with 6 deg of angle on the keel fins, to give a loseer feeling. Is that a good idea?
These are my board dimensions. The fin placement is going to be hard, but I have to do it.
http://www.sheldrake.net/cardboards/boards/fish_64/
And I agree, I got very lucky picking up this board. This board has been a joy!
This is awesome, I want one! cant wait to see glassing pics!
MONOKOTE! That's probably what the guy uses when he made the honeycomb bamboo boards... what was his name... a very nice looking translucent board, not transparent but overall a very attractive build.
I wondered how he was able to drape and wet out the glass without it sagging between the ribs. Now I know - it's MONOKOTE over the ribs. I'm vaguely familiar with it for model airplane builds.
I do wonder, though, whether the lamination will bond at all to the plastic MKote. If no bond, no shear strength, and the board is quite likely to buckle in compression, same as many inadequately glassed EPS cores.
Nick, have you thought of this, and how do you anticipate to address it?
Please to continue posting your build, including how well your clothes iron works as a MK iron. I thought one had to acquire the made-for-the-purpose MK iron, and was bidding on several via fleabay. Never won, and now I have a couple wings downstairs that lack skins.
Yeah, mike sheldrake talked about doing a board originally from Balsa, the cardboard was a prototype. He liked how strong the cardboard was & just stuck with it. I was thinking what you were thinking regarding the balsa build up. It'd be tough. There is a required bit of flex in the build and im not sure how the balsa would hold. But, if it was done it would be one hell of a surfboard! I tell you what...you buy the CNC router, I'll come over and learn the software.
Honolulu-I wasnt affraid of using a clothing iron for the Monokote. It gets it right up to heat. And, the flat surface of the board is much like that of an ironing board. AIrplane wings are small and have tight access voids where the monokote is hard to apply with a home iron. The shirt over the bottom of the iron allowed me to move the iron friction free, and softented the pressure a bit.
Ive thought about the delam issues, Oh boy have I thought about them.... but the glass is going over such a large area supported by the honeycomb that it should hold. Im 170lbs, and with 3 layers of glass 4,6,4 in S glass it should be strong enough. I might go over the Monokote with a scoring pad...but not sure yet...I think it will hold. The rep at Monokote said this stuff will work well with epoxy. This is my experiment. Time will tell....
Stay Tuned......
Durbs- Sorry about the delay, I dont know how much the core weighs. I didnt have a scale. My guess however would be 2.5/3lbs?
Glassed some this weekend. Pictures coming soon. I respect the art so much more now.
"The rep at Monokote said this stuff will work well with epoxy."
Yabbut normally it would be monokote over epoxy, not the other way around. Did you ask him about that?
Keithmelville,
yes, I explained my intended purpose for the material.
Resin Reasearch 2000 epoxy. 4oz S cloth, 6oz regular cloth, and another 4oz S-cloth. Brad from Foam-EZ was a big help getting my materials to the Marshall Islands. Thanks for helpign me out, and the guys over at Lokbox fins are going to help give direction on applying my fin boxes. Twin Keels!
The top layer of glass going on. Its not a pleasant as the bottom. I hit a few problems doing my laps. First time ever, adapt and overcome. Im very, very pleased with the bottom results. It went on very smooth, the monokote made it easy to pour resin, and use a squeegy...or in my case a laminated piece of paper.
I guess I should have mentioned... this is my first board build, ever. MOTIVATED!!!
How bout my glassing table! Pretty rough!
IMG_4044.JPG
IMG_4045.JPG
If I were to nail any part of this project, the bottom was it. I can think of several things I might have done different, going back on it now. But, I am very happy with it at the moment. This is fun!
The end result of the glassing is still frosted. Glass is just going to do that. It will probably clear up some when I do my gloss coat.
The nose looks great, only bit of resin drip from the open rails bled into it. (bottom left). Still not bad.
IMG_4049.JPG
IMG_4051.JPG
IMG_4052.JPG
The top deck has one more layer of glass to add on. I wanted to show what it looks like before. Its ugly, a little off color. That will even out as I apply more glass, and sand smooth.
IMG_4056.JPG
Nick, Looks good. I think it might be better with clear to do cut laps instead of free laps. Can you she the free laps.? What do you think?
very cool... I appreciate all the pics, this is why i come here
I don't know about anyone else but I'm laffing and hooting out loud--this is the very sht. Balls to the wall on his first board, stoked, stocked with pics, looking great, well-done, esoteric, but totally FUNctional looking... !! Huge Props.
Man that carbon bicuit thread and now this...
And if you have some, I think we'd all like some pics of the scapes around your home island too!
Wood-0:
"Nick, Looks good. I think it might be better with clear to do cut laps instead of free laps. Can you she the free laps.? What do you think?"
Never thought of it! I bet board #2, if or when I do one comes out shining! If the lam holds up, I will try this monokote on the deck again.
Janklow:
"I don't know about anyone else but I'm laffing and hooting out loud--this is the very sht. Balls to the wall on his first board, stoked, stocked with pics, looking great, well-done, esoteric, but totally FUNctional looking... !! Huge Props.
Man that carbon bicuit thread and now this...
And if you have some, I think we'd all like some pics of the scapes around your home island too!"
Thanks for the words! We are a special inspiring few, on SWAYS! I appreciate everyones effort in sharing thier craft.
Ask and ye shall receive! These are a few shots from the Kwajalein Atoll, home.
h.JPG
IMG_4001.JPG
storm rolling in on reef.JPG
swell on Roi Namur.JPG
IMG_4001_0.JPG
IMG_3998.JPG
I am really rooting for you. Great thread. Great build. Call with questions. you know you have only to ask.
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. - Winston Churchill
Wow, I'm so stoked to find this thread! I actually thought about doing the exact same thing - even emailed Mono-Kote to ask if epoxy resin would bond to it, but they never responded. Then I thought about glassing over silkspan tissue. Love to know how this turns out! And how about weight - what do you anticipate the final weight to be?
Huck-
The silk tissue would probably be a better application. I went over it in my mind while doing the build. So, run with it if you can. Sheldrake emailed me and said the S-glass made a few of his first generation boards come out frostier. So, regular glass is the way to go for clarity. Oh well...
Just watch out with the Silk, I think they apply a coating of some sort of material on it to keep fuel from destrying it. Model airplanes are filthy in that respect.
Today-
I hit a snag...well a snag for a new guy. I got working on the glass today on the top of the board. I left off a few days ago with only one layer on the top of the board. Its gummy, and I worked the rough rails with a razor knife which did the job. Then hit a few high spots on the nose area of the deck with a dremel tool. It burned through the glass and left a darker epoxy around the area. Sort of yellowish and looks like it would contaminate the next coat. No pictures of this fiasco, but I started to cut through the yellowish gummy area with a razor knife then stuck some resin cure on that and plan on sanding it smooth so I can get a clean even spot to lay up the next few coats of glass.
Any input?
Yep on the silk - I even thought about model airplane dope first, then glass, so it doesn't shrink when it gets wet from the resin. Might get an interesting moire pattern from the two weaves. Just used s-glass on my hws, and found it doesn't wet out as clear as regular glass, so I guess Sheldrake is right about that! Bummer about the booger on the glass. I'm new to epoxy, and don't like the slow dry-time. I glassed my board this morning, and couldn't sand until night time. Didn't like the wait! I'm hoping to do a glass-over-frame board soon (but not a sheldrake), but a little skeered of glassing! That's why I thought of silk or silkspan or monokote. I'd love to do a sheldrake with solid wood rails. I wonder about ding repair on them sheldrake boards! Man they do look cool 'tho!
straight outs, my local spot on Kwajalein
IMG_3887.JPG
Ninjei on a small day, through blue blockers!
Ninjei on a small day.JPG
A surfshack. More of a party spot for locals on Roi Namur Island. The beach provides zero waves, inside the lagoon.
surfshack.JPG
Jungle on Roi Naumur
RoiGarden.JPG
coconut palm tree trunks..JPG
Coconut palm tree trunks that I might end up salvaging the timber from to create a board. In my mind it sounds do able.
coconut palm tree trunks._0.JPG
Sheldrake makes it sound like minor ding repair is not a problem, but im being just a little heavier on the glass to be safe. I surf around sharp reef.
So, your project; 6'8'' HWS fish...is a perfect frame up construction. You are doing what I planned on doing for my 4th board. I will need to pick your brain at another time. It looks excellent! many props.
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/my-first-hws-68-retro-fish
To see Hucks fish.
Good luck on the finish. I agree cutlap is the way to go. Here's the Sheldrake Fish my son and I just finished.....
Was that you guys (shrunkenhead) in Foam E-Z the other day getting some fins and Probox inserts? If so, the board looks great and I have to agree with Yarnes that when we held it up to the light the board looked friggen awesome!
Good build!
Brad
We are the ORIGINAL One-Stop Surfboard Supply Shop, since 1993!
Shape It, Glass It, Surf It!
BYOB = Build Your Own Board
[email protected]
www.FoamEZ.com
Aside from the bottom, which is near perfect as it can get for one of these, the top is sub-par. I have bubbles or air pockets and its just something I have to get over. I have stalled the project for the time being, until my vents arrive and I can figure out how to anchor them safely. That and the lokbox system I will install.
Please post some shots of you fish build Shrunkenhead.
I will say this, hold the board up to the light and it looks friggin awesome.
here's a hasty shot of the board at Ray Bay which shows more of my happy son (father-son project) than the build. He was super stoked to finish it, and yes, he brought the board into the guys at Foam-EZ "to match the color of the fins we're gonna buy just right"
fish at ray bay second try.jpg
Shrunkenhead,
What kind of vent thingy is in the center there? Gore-tex by chance?
Nickyarnes,
Center vent IS the Gore-tex vent that is the "retrofit" version we got from FoamEZ. We glassed over the edges of the vent as well as the (couldn't stop my son) FOUR proboxes.
Gotta say doing the fin boxes is much more tricky than in a standard foam board. Had to cut out the "bottom", glass it in (since there was nothing to stick it to), then stick the box in. We decided against making a supporting bottom block or gluing more cardboard onto the other side so we could keep with the translucent effect as much as possible. Since we (I) was worried about the board being watertight and strength (he is 14 after all) , I put glass over the boxes too.
End result is a cool looking board. Stops people when they see it here in Seal Beach. It's not really super light (since it has like 14 oz glass on the top and 10 on bottom),, but if I were to do it again, I could make it lighter for myself (just two glass-on fins), stingier on resin, etc.
My son is smiling, and that is more than worth it. Just gotta see how it does when he gets slammed. Concerned about Gore Tex, since I used to mountain climb a lot and know its limitations.
Son's choice onthe vent--was worried he'd forget to close the vent, since he sometimes forgets to put his leash on . Did I say he was 14?
Good point. I went with 2 plugs, and Pete C has been on it, letting me know what to expect from this vent. I believe we are pushing its boundries a bit, 2 should help. And, this is sways, pushing boundries is what we do. I stuck on more glass than your board, but used 4oz S-cloth. 4-6-4 both sides. We have jagged reef out here. The water is more floaty due to how close I live to the equator, so I should get good buoyancy. The next Sheldrake build will have less glass, and be cut lapped.
Heres the posts for the Gore-tex vents you can get from Foam EZ, by Pete C.
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1027651#comment-1353356
Your sons 14? This site should be good for him, if he were to ever want to learn board making. Treatosea as well. And other sites....
Key Hole cuts_0.JPG
The fins, on my son's board were tricky,,the Proboxes are usually pretty easy...but on this board, we had to carefully trim the core once we cut through the lam. It was easy to get through the skin, but I made the mistake of pretending the cardboard core was like foam and used the router. Large mistake, since the bit easily handled cardboard as long as you didn't try to router the cardboard from the flat side. If you did, it would jump and I chunked a good slice from the lam and significantly enlarged the hole on one of the boxes.
After trimming, such as it was, I laid in 4 oz e glass and 6 oz s glass in each hole with a small overlap all around the hole's edge-- over the board's bottom surface (like 3/8 of an inch, or so)--- and carefully resined two boxes at a time in. I was trying to make a little pocket in each hole to work with. I took an insert and covered it in plastic wrap, then placed it (gently) into the fiberglass pocket while it was curing and flattened out the edges of the cloth that were above the hole.
I kept a long aluminum level with a weight on top touching two boxes at a time so that the pockets would level, wouldn't float up, and be easy to do the final glue in. It is important, because during the lam stage, it is actually hard to figure out what level on the board is...the bottom really isn't completely flat, and the core kinda gives you a little bit of an illusion.
Once the pocket was hard, I sanded and feathered out the overlap on the board's bottom, then... I resined in the box (again with the level across two boxes at a time) and waited for cure. After that, I took a pull-saw and flush cut the flashing on the box, rather than traumatizing the board again with my router or sanding through the lightly resined bottom lam. I then used my younger son's play doh to cover the grub screw holes
Then we put another, carefully trimmed 4 oz oval piece directly over each box and resined each one over, covering the slot and overlapping the initial glass for the bottom of the box, so the oval piece overlapped like three quarters of an inch away from the plastic around the box. We kept some wax rubbed in the main slot to keep resin out ( mistake, we found out later, since we didn't fully wax every slot). .
I then took a razor and sliced out the cloth away from the slot with when the resin was set enough, but not completely hard. At the end, I took a Dremel (but a drill would've been fine) and ground out the grub screw slots. I knew I was deep enough with my Dremel when pink Play Doh showed up
Two pic's highlighting the mistake and recovery. One is the munched hole (the one with the fin in the box) as evidenced by what looks like extra white stuff outside the plastic box. The other is what happens when you try to dig resin out of a plastic finbox. The resin extraction kinda scarred the plastic, but it is fully functional.
Probox with glass overlaps.JPG
box with leveling illusion.JPG
Speaking of fins, thanks to Nick for hitting me up about making some customs for this board. I've been looking for a good reason to make some hollow wood fins for a while now - just haven't gotten around to figuring out the bracing. Here's what we'd agreed upon so far:
After taking a look at a close-up shot of the bracing pattern for the Sheldrake design it became apparent how the joints work - twice as many notched on one side (SS) as those with alternating notches (DS). I had a chance this morning to do a quick mock up with some 1/8x3/8" strips of cardboard testing that idea, and yeah, it went together like buddah. One tough, rigid little sample . . .hmmmm . . .
I'll have a chance to repeat with wood this evening and let you know how it goes. As you know, there is some flexing that needs to take place in order to put those last strips in and that could determine which wood is to be used. On the other hand, it might not be a problem at all . Until then . . .
Yo, Camplus. Your fins are going to out-do my board for sure!
Just a minor update on the build. Brads package from Foam EZ showed up today. Tomorrow I will start the install of the Lokbox fin system. Wish me luck. Also, Pete C's Gore-Tex vent plugs arrived. Im thinking about where to install them at the moment. Probably near the tail, both sides???? There is some debate to why they should go towards the nose, but these puppies never have to come off. So, I think it should be ok to put them there.
-Anyone do custom board bags? Im looking for a hollow core design. Something along these lines, only in honeycomb translucent styling.. Just kidding ;)
AW SNAP! Literally! This one's going in the "old enough to know better - too young to resist" file. 5mm birch ply strips, 3/8" wide with the notches cut 90deg. through like the cardboard.
The smart side of the brain was telling me that I wouldn't get enough flex to put that last run of strips in without snapping the grid. The hasty side of my brain that told me to go ahead and try it anyway . . . No worries though Nick! I'm setting up the jig for 60deg notches tomorrow and moving on to phase 2 (halo casting) shortly thereafter. I'll keep you posted.
Camplus
Woody-O wanted an entire board made out of balsa. I figured balsa would need an angle cut like you just discovered, at an angle of approx 45-60 degrees or so. to allow the board to shift into position, or align from a grid pattern to the Star of David honeycomb. The cardboard allows for flex, as shown in Post #5, on top. But, perhaps Im missing something, and your doing it a different way. Either way, im just going to sit back and enjoy the show! These fins are going to be sick!!!
Pages