C.I. Std. single 4 oz deck as stated on You Tube??

I was looking at You Tub, and this guy was ‘reviewing’ his new Channel Islands board. Yeah okay, everyone’s an expert right…at least on You Tube you can be whatever you wanna be. So I was a bit surprised when the guy was saying “yeah, this board is sooo light becausethey glass them with one layer of 4 oz. on the deck and put these carbon strips on the tail rail so the tail deck doesn’t cave.”

Really?

Well I know that Lost and others have claimed they refined things and gotten blanks that only require single 4 oz deck glass… so how true a statement is this. I see reputable glass shops that describe pro glassing as “one 4 oz. and 2/3” 4 oz. on deck with a thin hotcoat that may show some cloth weave".

A USB red with a single 4 would be light, but would last how long… if this is the norm, I’d say you’re blowing thru some boards.

 

 

 

 

 

On the bright side, that way they don't last long enough to turn yellow.

…I remember doing 1 4oz  (Hexcel) deck lams in late 80s on supergreen CF and Bennet from Brazil…and with those HCoats that show some burns plus fins only laminated without hot coats

too much for ´87 type of clients

I work on ci and we never have never done single 4 decks.  

Their website does say you can get team light boards with one layer of 4oz S glass and also notes:

Lightest possible glass lay up

            Lightest blank available 

            Most flex, **least durable **

so they’re not leading anyone on**
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I would expect as such… any lightweight boards I did as pupe’s had extra glass in my stance area and single everywhere else… otherwise they were/are EPS epoxies. Since I’m mentioning that, how many of you are using GL’s or FGH’s epoxy for lams only then finishing H/Cs with UV or catalyzed PE? (being sure to have lam still tacky, retack w/denatured alcohol or scuff sanding previous to applying H/C.

[quote=“$1”]

Since I’m mentioning that, how many of you are using GL’s or FGH’s epoxy for lams only then finishing H/Cs with UV or catalyzed PE? (being sure to have lam still tacky, retack w/denatured alcohol or scuff sanding previous to applying H/C.

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                    jeez dead ya not doing that are you?/

Not saying I am… just asking?

Contrary to popular belief, some epoxies are designed to readily accept poly topcoats.

Aluzine.

Huie, as you know, I am well aware of the difference between a chemical and mechanical bond. Apples to apples makes far more sense esp. if you look at the molecular dif’s of epoxy and poly under a microscope. Different linkage altogether. It may be that some of those epoxies being used in this fashion are not what some would consider ‘true’ epoxies.

I’m not a chemist, or I might be able to explain why some epoxies ‘appear’ to bond better this way… might be the % of xylene or something most of us know squat about… GL did state in a previous thread that he has done this, but the superior bond is apples to apples and oranges to oranges. With Qwik Kick, there’s no real reasoning to do a hybrid of sorts.

But it has, and is, being done…

i am not going into a bizare  yes you can   no you cant train wreck?

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             just going to post up what i have had  experience with.

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         firstly i have only used  kinetics epoxy for surfboards over the last 6ish yrs

 and greg will tell me i cant. but naturaly i understand his position   but i have hot coated a few epoxies with poly cat

and in recent times u v poly

in that time i havent seen any major defects but hey mybe i dont produce enough vol to have a clue

but i do know a cple of the little mongs that test and play with my short boards that are all built ultra light

for them to have a board for a yr and still surf it is a feat in itself  have they snapped them YES

do they get footwells YES

 plus your general ware and tear.   but in none of those areas do i see the poly peeling off in sheets like some claim??

as a mater of fact the only times i have seen it chip away is on the tail were it has been droped and  was easly repaired

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     but dead

            i threw a few boards in the skipp bin till i learnt exactly what was happening

the first thing and bear in mind i dont like laminating in cold weather not even whith  artificaly heated areas.

just yesterday i had the best epoxy  glassing day for a long time 29 deg c  the whole room just felt so right the resin whithout aditives

was flowing just so smothly  thats the first big step for mine.

even though the boards were what felt like cured at the end of the day  i put them in a rack for two more days

its well to note that i do cut laps trimed horizontly  with sharp scalpel leaves a very thin cut line

keep everything nice an clean.

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  when iget the board to hot coat it  i run the cut line down with a surform blade and scuff the whole board  (for mechanical bond)

then uv it   i think i posted the how to elsewhere    the main thing i found that if you do sand back to glass anywhere it will need an epoxy repair.

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    the thing i learnt is if the epoxy is not fully cured the poly wont go near it it is a f###k up

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 an example a board i got back to repair  2yr old  it was glassed 1 layer of 4 oz on deck with a poly resin special effect

then glassed top and bottom 1 layer 4 oz in epoxy .  then h coat poly finished poly

the rail had a heavy ding an delam    but here is the joke

**the first epoxy lap was in good nick the second lap on to the epoxy one had  delamed    haaa’’
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the epoxy sticks lik e sh ###t to a blanket

so now after all this epoxy talk i am itchy with red lumps everywhere  haa’’

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ps  now that i can get gregs resin just down the way  i will definatly test it with poly u v

i i bet i dont have a prblm

hope i have been of some help    if not     oh well

 

**                          cheers huie
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I think certain epoxies don't require the lams to be fully cured. Then I've used some epoxies that rendered the polyester completely useless and some years back we had some boards for Puerto Escondido that the poly never even kicked!

The RR resin we used thru the 80's took gloss poly fine with rough sanding but that obviously was a mechanical bond.

I think the difficulty that people have getting their heads wrapped this subject is that you can repair poly boards with epoxy repair kits, so why not the other way around?

If the two truly are not chemically bonding, then why offer epoxy repair kits that fix both?

Huie tried it and it got used and it worked.............. that's a pretty good clue to what you can do when sanded. The other test is obvious, just lam away w/epoxy and put on the UV hotcoat at the right time............. then go ride it.

Of course the epoxy lams won't be cured even though the UV poly hotcoats have, and been sanded, and maybe even glossed........... so if a customer goes and rides it.............. might just end up being a big ooops..... shoulda let the epoxy lams cure! Duh.

System 3 Epoxy sells a specific blend (SB-112) that is marketed as being compatible with polyester resins and gel coats.  I have not tried it myself so can't comment on that.  Also, I don't know if it available outside US.

Some of my worst bonding issues were epoxy-on-epoxy after the first coat blushed and I didn't have enough sense to know it and scuff/scrub before second coat.

"SB-112 is unique in that polyester resins and gel coats may be bonded to it without the use of "tie-coats". We recommend that polyester be bonded onto freshly sanded SB-112 epoxy within 48 hours of cure."

http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/SB-112-c12.htm

 

   **  thats the whole point it must be fully cured **

**  john so do you think the techniqe applied to gregs resin works or not? **

About 6 or 7  years ago Clyde Beatty was doing Expoy with Polyester hotcoats and would gloss and polish the Epoxy Longboards with Poly. The boards he did for me were amazing. Clyde was ahead of the pack when it came to Epoxy/Poly boards.

Never had a defect from Clyde. Santa Babara was ahead of the curve.

Michael, R U sure the hotcoats were poly? I remember us doing the poly glosses but not sand coats..... I may be wrong?

Yeah just go to there website it all depends on how you order you surfboard… Jeez.

 

I was reading this the other day. If you buy a CI board it has a little circle on the bottom and it says UL, S, if its a team board might be a TL which is were you would get the S cloth single layer but i think the old board were like 1 and 3/4 layer They would add the 3/4 to sections of weak ness like near the fins and what not.

http://www.cisurfboards.com/Surfboard-glassing.asp

Volk.......... thanks for the link...... that's a very together deal they are doing. Two thumbs up!