hit the weave by final sanding

Hello to everybody,

first thank to all the people sharing their experience on
swaylocks!!!That´s such a great platform for newbies like me to learn
more about the secrets of building a surfboard.

This are two fotos of my current project (5´10´´ fish). That´s the
third board I made, so there are thousands of things that could be done
better. But it´s quite cool to see the improvement after the first and
the second board.

I have to do some finishing work. So maybe you can help me with your
advice for the last step. I sanded the board to 400 grit (wet) but
worked a bit to hard on the rails. There are some weak small spots in
the top layer (sanded into the cloth on the rails). I don´t think that´s a problem
for the stability, and it might be no chance for the blank to suck
water. I did a heavy glassjob with about 2*6 +4 oz over the rails.

First I wanted to finish the board with a matt spray finish. Now I
think about opening the small spots (by scratching with a sharp tool you can remove a bit of material) and fix them with resin first. Do a
light sanding and then maybe finish with a really thin epoxy gloss
(without sanding/ I think it doesn´t matter for me if the gloss is not
100% perfect but I think maybe it will add a little bit more strenght)

Any advices what to do best?

Sorry for my English. :slight_smile:

Thanks, Chris

The sand through looks like it may be a bit deep.If you can press the area with your thumb and it feels soft you should put a glass patch over it and treat it like a ding.If not you should be able too brush a thin coat of resin over it,try to get it perfect with no drips so you dont have alot of sanding to do.

Try squirting some styrene on the cloth and squeegie in some resin. Fair out and ride.

Nice planshape…

Looks like you need to do something there on the rails. If it’s soft, you need more cloth. If it’s not, tape off and paint on another hotcoat.

Thanks!

It doesn´t feel soft. I “only” hit the first layer so I will fix the litte damages with some extra resin and apply another thin coat. I don´t think that it´s necessary to work with another patch of cloth cause there are still two layers that are o.k. under these 4 to 5 little spots

Thank you very much for your comments. Will post another pic if the finishing work is done.

Chris

 

After applying resin, wrap the wetted rail with wax paper. It will keep it smoother and the wax will make it easier to sand. I use wax paper on all dings.

 

Same here, pretty much. Why sand more than you have to?

     Howzit tblank, You know why the wax paper works well right, the heat from the kicking resin melts and sucks the wax from the paper and makes it like it had SA mixed into the resin, old and good trick for ding repair when you are out of SA or sanding resin. Used it a few times. Anoher trick is if you do a hotcoat and the wax doesn't get to the surface and it is tacky you can put wax paper over the area and set the board in the sun and it will make the resin sandable, used that one on one of bruce Irons boards that had black paint that got hot and the wax didn't rise to the surface in time.. Aloha,Kokua